288LikesTamiya mini cooper
04-12-2013, 10:09 AM
Thats why second hand minis are always the best route. Even if you have to replace a gear set, or every plastic chassis component, as long as the alloy isnt bent, its much much cheaper way to go.
Granpa, check out the bluebird servos from HK. For $45 i thought it would be rubbish, but its been spectacular and hasnt missed a beat. I got the BMS-955DMG, metal geared, low profile and very quick!
Granpa, check out the bluebird servos from HK. For $45 i thought it would be rubbish, but its been spectacular and hasnt missed a beat. I got the BMS-955DMG, metal geared, low profile and very quick!
04-12-2013, 10:17 AM
Sure I could save $200 by using a Tekin FX esc and a cheaper servo like a Savox, but even then the total is staggering. The totals didn't include the clamp type hex drives and all the misc pets like the ball nuts, balls, 12mm set screws, axle shims, flanged tubes, machine screws, and so on. All of the misc parts are in my parts boxes.
04-12-2013, 10:24 AM
Just out of curiosity, I was wondering how many $$$$$ people have invested in their Minis. I'm putting together a new "race" car and was amazed how much of an investment this car required. This is a partial list of the components in my "new" car and the approximate pricing.
Kit $130
Tires and wheels $35
Aluminum hubs front & rear $75
Ball diff $30
Bearings $55 or $85 depending on whether ceramic bearings are used in the tranny.
JR servo $140
Servo saver $6
TRF sedan shocks $65
KO esc $180
KO receiver $70
Roll bars $10
CVDs $30
Hardened outdrives $10
Silvercan motor $17 motor in kit was not TCS legal motor
Misc $ ??????
The total was well over $650. Admittedly, nothing but the absolute best components were used regardless of price. This was going to be my "killer" mini and so far it's killing my pocket book.
I have a feeling that many would be shocked if they started adding up their investment.
Kit $130
Tires and wheels $35
Aluminum hubs front & rear $75
Ball diff $30
Bearings $55 or $85 depending on whether ceramic bearings are used in the tranny.
JR servo $140
Servo saver $6
TRF sedan shocks $65
KO esc $180
KO receiver $70
Roll bars $10
CVDs $30
Hardened outdrives $10
Silvercan motor $17 motor in kit was not TCS legal motor
Misc $ ??????
The total was well over $650. Admittedly, nothing but the absolute best components were used regardless of price. This was going to be my "killer" mini and so far it's killing my pocket book.
I have a feeling that many would be shocked if they started adding up their investment.
Tamiya (#51389) M-05 A Parts (Chassis) USD$8.90 USD$0.81
x Tamiya (#54183) M-Chassis Rein. Freewheel Axle Set USD$6.50 USD$1.30
x Tamiya (#54224) M05 Lightweight Alu. Battery Holder USD$21.50 USD$3.60
x Tamiya (#54277) M-Chassis Reinforced Gear Set USD$5.50 USD$1.25
x Tamiya (#54319) M-Chassis LW Hollow Shaft Set USD$2.50 USD$0.90
x Tamiya (#54320) M-05 Carbon Damper Stay (Front) USD$9.50 USD$0.72
x 3Racing (#3RAC-HTS30/LB) Servo Saver Horn-single Hole- Light Blue For Tamiya USD$3.30 USD$0.00
x 3Racing (#M03M-11/V3) Swing Shaft Ver. 3 For M03M USD$11.90 USD$0.00
x 3Racing (#M05-06/WO) Graphite Rear Shock Tower (M&S) For M05 USD$12.50 USD$0.00
x 3Racing (#M05-10/LB) Rear Lower Suspension Mount For M05 USD$8.90 USD$0.00
x 3Racing (#M05-12) Suspension Hinge Pin For M05 USD$5.50 USD$0.00
x 3Racing (#M06-06) Gear Differential 39T For M06 USD$26.90 USD$1.40
x 3Racing (#M05-16/LB) Linkage Set For M05 USD$9.90 USD$0.00
x 3Racing (#M05-26) Suspension Set For M05 USD$8.90 USD$0.00
x *Yeah Racing Alloy Wheel Washer Set Thick 5mm (BU) For 1/10 RC Touring Car #WA-015BU USD$7.90 USD$0.00
x *Yeah Racing (#M03-132BU) Rear Hub Carrier 1.5 Deg For Tamiya M03,M04,M05 Series Out of stock USD$15.90 USD$0.00
x Tamiya (#54184) M05 Aluminum Motor Plate USD$16.90 USD$2.45
x *Yeah Racing (#M05-042BU) Aluminum Ball Bearing Steering Set (BU) For Tamiya M05 & M05 Pro USD$17.90 USD$0.00
x Tamiya (#54000) 50mm M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set USD$55.90 USD$10.00
x 3Racing (#M03M-08) 64 Titanium King Pin Set USD$10.50 USD$0.00
x 3Racing Servo Saver for Tamiya F104/F103 #3RAC-SHAMU USD$2.50 USD$0.00
x 3Racing (#M03M-05/LB) Alum Front C Mount For M03M (LB) Out of stock USD$11.50 USD$0.00
x SAVOX Low Profile High Speed Metal Gear Digital Servo for 1:8 / 1:10 RC Touring Car/Boat #SC-1251MG FREE SHIPPING! USD$62.99 USD$0.00
SUB-TOTAL: USD$321.76
Add a Orca Sprark ESC motor Combo for a $100, $50 Spectrum Rx, and some Misc $50 including HPI Civic Body
Total would be around $525..... Ouch!
04-12-2013, 10:34 AM
Just out of curiosity, I was wondering how many $$$$$ people have invested in their Minis. I'm putting together a new "race" car and was amazed how much of an investment this car required. This is a partial list of the components in my "new" car and the approximate pricing.
Kit $130
Tires and wheels $35
Aluminum hubs front & rear $75
Ball diff $30
Bearings $55 or $85 depending on whether ceramic bearings are used in the tranny.
JR servo $140
Servo saver $6
TRF sedan shocks $65
KO esc $180
KO receiver $70
Roll bars $10
CVDs $30
Hardened outdrives $10
Silvercan motor $17 motor in kit was not TCS legal motor
Misc $ ??????
The total was well over $650. Admittedly, nothing but the absolute best components were used regardless of price. This was going to be my "killer" mini and so far it's killing my pocket book.
I have a feeling that many would be shocked if they started adding up their investment.
Kit $130
Tires and wheels $35
Aluminum hubs front & rear $75
Ball diff $30
Bearings $55 or $85 depending on whether ceramic bearings are used in the tranny.
JR servo $140
Servo saver $6
TRF sedan shocks $65
KO esc $180
KO receiver $70
Roll bars $10
CVDs $30
Hardened outdrives $10
Silvercan motor $17 motor in kit was not TCS legal motor
Misc $ ??????
The total was well over $650. Admittedly, nothing but the absolute best components were used regardless of price. This was going to be my "killer" mini and so far it's killing my pocket book.
I have a feeling that many would be shocked if they started adding up their investment.
Heh, for me, not so much.
Used M03R - $90
New, non-chrome chassis - $15
Spring kit - $10
Body - $40
Misc. - $40
That puts me at $195. I got a killer deal on the M03R from a guy who was being deployed. It has reinfoced gears, A slicks, a JR servo of some kind, Tekin ESC, and a few other fun parts. If you add in the LiPo and charger, that is another $100, maybe. I have really been happy with the little bastard, it is a blast to race.
04-12-2013, 10:40 AM
Thats why second hand minis are always the best route. Even if you have to replace a gear set, or every plastic chassis component, as long as the alloy isnt bent, its much much cheaper way to go.
Granpa, check out the bluebird servos from HK. For $45 i thought it would be rubbish, but its been spectacular and hasnt missed a beat. I got the BMS-955DMG, metal geared, low profile and very quick!
Granpa, check out the bluebird servos from HK. For $45 i thought it would be rubbish, but its been spectacular and hasnt missed a beat. I got the BMS-955DMG, metal geared, low profile and very quick!
But thanx for the info, and will check them out for one of my "fun" Minis. After this car, the next project is a little M03 or 05 SWB for a local carpet track. Don't want to blow big bucks on a project car and it will be minus a lot of upgrades like the Al uprights and will use the dollar bearings. The bearings on the "killer" Mini are $32 for wheel bearings and $48 for the tranny.
04-12-2013, 11:30 AM
I have about $500 into my mini including the car itself.
Jason
Jason
04-12-2013, 12:17 PM
My M05 is cheap . . .
M05 Kit $135.00
Aluminum Steering Link $17.00
Bearings $20.00
1016 Pre-mounted wheels / tires $40.00
Futaba S3305 Out of my toolbox
TA03 ball diff from my old M03
'Super-Mini' shocks from my old M03
I run the included Tamiya ESC and Silver can motor
Total $212.00
M05 Kit $135.00
Aluminum Steering Link $17.00
Bearings $20.00
1016 Pre-mounted wheels / tires $40.00
Futaba S3305 Out of my toolbox
TA03 ball diff from my old M03
'Super-Mini' shocks from my old M03
I run the included Tamiya ESC and Silver can motor
Total $212.00
04-12-2013, 01:24 PM
Tech Regular
Minicooper issues: on a long straight it can suddenly and unexpectedly veer off one side or another.
I have been racing 1/8 and 1/10 nitro for 20 years and currently we must have 30 RC cars in various states of repair and restoration. But we are new to Tamiya MiniCoopers and front-wheel drive RC.
I built 4 in the last year for myself and kids:
M05 S-Spec #84204 ( http://www.hobbymedia.it/img/2011/06...hassis-kit.jpg)
M05-Medium WB with many mods to almost match the "S-spec"
M05-Short WB stock
M03-Short WB stock
The "S-Spec" M05 is the best of the group (the stock M05, the worst) but still not perfectly stable in a straight line like, for example, our current box-stock TT01-E Audi (or just about any other Serpent or Kyosh I have had in the past).
I have set up and checked all the following:
Front toe out per the instruction manual (I'm back to those original settings after trying more and less toe in than the instructions call for)
Minimal steering % programmed in
Generous negative EXPO on steering
Metal servo saver arm ( cam in kit)
Metal Gear servo (Hitec HS-645MG)
all metal BB steering linkage (came with kit)
BB wheels
Tires and wheels seem round and true as they spin.
FASST radio.
No binding on A arms with shocks off.
All 4 shocks feel the same with same type piston and oil
No tweak evident on chassis
Tamiya Sport Tuned motor (plenty fast)
NiHi battery (plenty of run time)
I have a ball diff on the way. If that does not fix it, I'm inclined to think there is something inherent in the design of the car (like not enough caster to self center the steering?)
The question is : What is the best I should expect from these cars in straight line stability?
I have been racing 1/8 and 1/10 nitro for 20 years and currently we must have 30 RC cars in various states of repair and restoration. But we are new to Tamiya MiniCoopers and front-wheel drive RC.
I built 4 in the last year for myself and kids:
M05 S-Spec #84204 ( http://www.hobbymedia.it/img/2011/06...hassis-kit.jpg)
M05-Medium WB with many mods to almost match the "S-spec"
M05-Short WB stock
M03-Short WB stock
The "S-Spec" M05 is the best of the group (the stock M05, the worst) but still not perfectly stable in a straight line like, for example, our current box-stock TT01-E Audi (or just about any other Serpent or Kyosh I have had in the past).
I have set up and checked all the following:
Front toe out per the instruction manual (I'm back to those original settings after trying more and less toe in than the instructions call for)
Minimal steering % programmed in
Generous negative EXPO on steering
Metal servo saver arm ( cam in kit)
Metal Gear servo (Hitec HS-645MG)
all metal BB steering linkage (came with kit)
BB wheels
Tires and wheels seem round and true as they spin.
FASST radio.
No binding on A arms with shocks off.
All 4 shocks feel the same with same type piston and oil
No tweak evident on chassis
Tamiya Sport Tuned motor (plenty fast)
NiHi battery (plenty of run time)
I have a ball diff on the way. If that does not fix it, I'm inclined to think there is something inherent in the design of the car (like not enough caster to self center the steering?)
The question is : What is the best I should expect from these cars in straight line stability?
04-12-2013, 01:34 PM
04-12-2013, 03:01 PM
I found my M05 would dart early on in my experiences. But with toe out up front and toe in on the rear has rid my car of this.
Jason
Jason
04-12-2013, 03:21 PM
I'd suspect a "tweaked" steering assembly. The stock plastic ones are Junk and the right bell crank will bend very easily. Often this overlooked cause even the smallest tweaks will make your steering act up.
The M05 usually needs more toe out than the M03 and it's not unusual to have 2 degrees of toe out on each side. Also while checking, make sure you have the rear uprights on the correct side. I remember that on more than one occasion when checking out a car for someone they have been reversed.
A well set up Mini should run "hands off" down the straight with no wandering.
The M05 usually needs more toe out than the M03 and it's not unusual to have 2 degrees of toe out on each side. Also while checking, make sure you have the rear uprights on the correct side. I remember that on more than one occasion when checking out a car for someone they have been reversed.
A well set up Mini should run "hands off" down the straight with no wandering.
04-12-2013, 03:23 PM
Hi all,
I'm looking for some help with my M03R. I have the aluminum front up-rights, and I broke a side carrier that screws down the upright. A friend of mine had a ton of M parts, however, the aluminum up right is too small and doesn't fit in the carrier like it did the one that broke off. I'm also having a difficult time trying to find either this parts tree, or a spare tree on ebay.
Do you know anywhere I can find a tree from an R kit?
Thanks,
Vince
I'm looking for some help with my M03R. I have the aluminum front up-rights, and I broke a side carrier that screws down the upright. A friend of mine had a ton of M parts, however, the aluminum up right is too small and doesn't fit in the carrier like it did the one that broke off. I'm also having a difficult time trying to find either this parts tree, or a spare tree on ebay.
Do you know anywhere I can find a tree from an R kit?
Thanks,
Vince
Anyway, the newer C hubs as supplied on the M03M are part number 51238. They're pretty easy to find. Don't bother with the R part number, as it's just plated bling. 51238 will come with uprights and knuckles. (they'll probably need 5x11 bearings, btw)
04-12-2013, 04:21 PM
I was just curious, given the recent spate of posts about costs, how much I've got in my car. I've calculated everything at retail (ish) but haven't included batteries, as they get run in all my cars, so they're "shared." Unless otherwise noted, parts are Tamiya.
Tamiya M03
chassis 12.00
50793 parts 12.00
gears 6.00
gear diff parts 5.00
bearings (Avid) 14.00
tires 35.00
cvd axles (3Racing) 12.00
reinforced rear axles (3Racing) 2.60
alloy wheel hexes (3Racing) $7.00
carbon gear shafts (internal bling) $5.00
hardened outdrives $7.00
alloy steering knuckles $30.00
alloy rear uprights $30.00
stabilizers $10.00
body/paint (HPI/Pactra) $25.00
servo (savox) $50.00
motor/esc (Orca) $100.00
receiver (Spektrum) $35.00
assorted screws/body pins/etc $10.00
titanium turnbuckles (Associated) $10.00
servo saver (Kimbrough?) $6.00
total $468.60
Wow! That hurts! This is assuming you're buying new. Buying used takes patience, but this is what I've actually got into it.
My dampers and front/rear uprights probably cost me $50 at most. -$55
Got a good deal on my motor/ESC -$30
Rx was a freebie -$35
New total $348.60. Still lots, but slightly less painful. I believe one of the best money savers out there, if you've got some knowledge and used parts available, is to never, ever buy a complete kit. Considering how much you're going to replace anyway, it's just not worth it. If I were to guess what kit parts I've used in mine, the cost would be around $30. Everything else is from somewhere else. There's an M05 Pro for sale locally, btw, with our spec motor/esc and some bling for $160 SHIPPED! Great source for parts or a whole new car. BIG money saver.
Now, what I'm wondering is how much I've got into tools, fluids, supplies.....
Tamiya M03
chassis 12.00
50793 parts 12.00
gears 6.00
gear diff parts 5.00
bearings (Avid) 14.00
tires 35.00
cvd axles (3Racing) 12.00
reinforced rear axles (3Racing) 2.60
alloy wheel hexes (3Racing) $7.00
carbon gear shafts (internal bling) $5.00
hardened outdrives $7.00
alloy steering knuckles $30.00
alloy rear uprights $30.00
stabilizers $10.00
body/paint (HPI/Pactra) $25.00
servo (savox) $50.00
motor/esc (Orca) $100.00
receiver (Spektrum) $35.00
assorted screws/body pins/etc $10.00
titanium turnbuckles (Associated) $10.00
servo saver (Kimbrough?) $6.00
total $468.60
Wow! That hurts! This is assuming you're buying new. Buying used takes patience, but this is what I've actually got into it.
My dampers and front/rear uprights probably cost me $50 at most. -$55
Got a good deal on my motor/ESC -$30
Rx was a freebie -$35
New total $348.60. Still lots, but slightly less painful. I believe one of the best money savers out there, if you've got some knowledge and used parts available, is to never, ever buy a complete kit. Considering how much you're going to replace anyway, it's just not worth it. If I were to guess what kit parts I've used in mine, the cost would be around $30. Everything else is from somewhere else. There's an M05 Pro for sale locally, btw, with our spec motor/esc and some bling for $160 SHIPPED! Great source for parts or a whole new car. BIG money saver.
Now, what I'm wondering is how much I've got into tools, fluids, supplies.....
04-12-2013, 05:25 PM
I am running the local parking lot races and we have started a mini class. We are following the TCS serieswith the exception of aftermarket shocks are allowed due to the cost of Tamiya ones. What spare and hop up options should I keep in stock? We are trying to keep it as a low cost fun class.
I also would like some advice for a base setup for my m05 pro. It was built to instructions specs. I would like to keep the costs down, but I have read I do need the aluminum steering posts. Are there any other mandatory items I need to add? What is a good base setup for sealed asphalt surface kind of low traction. We have started to spray soda to increase traction. After I get a good base setup I will be sharing with everyone.
My current set up is...
M05 pro built to instructions, nothing different.
Venom 4000 20c lipo
Stock silver can
Kit tires
Tekin fxr
Spectrum radio
Thanks for your input.
I also would like some advice for a base setup for my m05 pro. It was built to instructions specs. I would like to keep the costs down, but I have read I do need the aluminum steering posts. Are there any other mandatory items I need to add? What is a good base setup for sealed asphalt surface kind of low traction. We have started to spray soda to increase traction. After I get a good base setup I will be sharing with everyone.
My current set up is...
M05 pro built to instructions, nothing different.
Venom 4000 20c lipo
Stock silver can
Kit tires
Tekin fxr
Spectrum radio
Thanks for your input.
04-12-2013, 08:17 PM
Mini M05 steering issue
Minicooper issues: on a long straight it can suddenly and unexpectedly veer off one side or another.
I have been racing 1/8 and 1/10 nitro for 20 years and currently we must have 30 RC cars in various states of repair and restoration. But we are new to Tamiya MiniCoopers and front-wheel drive RC.
I built 4 in the last year for myself and kids:
M05 S-Spec #84204 ( http://www.hobbymedia.it/img/2011/06...hassis-kit.jpg)
M05-Medium WB with many mods to almost match the "S-spec"
M05-Short WB stock
M03-Short WB stock
The "S-Spec" M05 is the best of the group (the stock M05, the worst) but still not perfectly stable in a straight line like, for example, our current box-stock TT01-E Audi (or just about any other Serpent or Kyosh I have had in the past).
I have set up and checked all the following:
Front toe out per the instruction manual (I'm back to those original settings after trying more and less toe in than the instructions call for)
Minimal steering % programmed in
Generous negative EXPO on steering
Metal servo saver arm ( cam in kit)
Metal Gear servo (Hitec HS-645MG)
all metal BB steering linkage (came with kit)
BB wheels
Tires and wheels seem round and true as they spin.
FASST radio.
No binding on A arms with shocks off.
All 4 shocks feel the same with same type piston and oil
No tweak evident on chassis
Tamiya Sport Tuned motor (plenty fast)
NiHi battery (plenty of run time)
I have a ball diff on the way. If that does not fix it, I'm inclined to think there is something inherent in the design of the car (like not enough caster to self center the steering?)
The question is : What is the best I should expect from these cars in straight line stability?
I have been racing 1/8 and 1/10 nitro for 20 years and currently we must have 30 RC cars in various states of repair and restoration. But we are new to Tamiya MiniCoopers and front-wheel drive RC.
I built 4 in the last year for myself and kids:
M05 S-Spec #84204 ( http://www.hobbymedia.it/img/2011/06...hassis-kit.jpg)
M05-Medium WB with many mods to almost match the "S-spec"
M05-Short WB stock
M03-Short WB stock
The "S-Spec" M05 is the best of the group (the stock M05, the worst) but still not perfectly stable in a straight line like, for example, our current box-stock TT01-E Audi (or just about any other Serpent or Kyosh I have had in the past).
I have set up and checked all the following:
Front toe out per the instruction manual (I'm back to those original settings after trying more and less toe in than the instructions call for)
Minimal steering % programmed in
Generous negative EXPO on steering
Metal servo saver arm ( cam in kit)
Metal Gear servo (Hitec HS-645MG)
all metal BB steering linkage (came with kit)
BB wheels
Tires and wheels seem round and true as they spin.
FASST radio.
No binding on A arms with shocks off.
All 4 shocks feel the same with same type piston and oil
No tweak evident on chassis
Tamiya Sport Tuned motor (plenty fast)
NiHi battery (plenty of run time)
I have a ball diff on the way. If that does not fix it, I'm inclined to think there is something inherent in the design of the car (like not enough caster to self center the steering?)
The question is : What is the best I should expect from these cars in straight line stability?
I had the same issued before like you mentioned, after I changed all the steering rack with all the Tamiya alluminium sets and also the Tamiya servo saver (Don't use the stock from the box is not good) and My mini M05 go straight with no problem, yes is expensive all those Hop-up. And the Tamiya TRF shocks is also makes a differents on handling the car, need to use red color spring front and rear, try to get the floresence color is more softer.
That's is my tips.
Good luck.