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Old 02-24-2013, 08:04 PM   #18451
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Quick question on the Tamiya titanium hop up screw set. What weight difference is there?? I searched here, but it came back as everything but what I needed to know. Thanks.

George
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:20 PM   #18452
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Quick question on the Tamiya titanium hop up screw set. What weight difference is there?? I searched here, but it came back as everything but what I needed to know. Thanks.

George
For a touring car I found about 30grams. Perhaps expect around 20 grams for a mini? But why would you want less weight? Lipos are too light anyway, and you'll end up having to add some lead to compensate anyway.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:56 PM   #18453
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Default Servo for M03

Hi guys. Whats the recommended spec for a servo in a M03 ??

My old Futaba has a few issues, needs to be replaced.
Does the M03 actually need high speed & good torque ??
I have a few to choose from, I just not sure which one to use, from Fut 3003(& Sanwa equivalent) & BlueBird BMS-631 all the way up to hi-speed Ko-Propro

Cheers
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:05 PM   #18454
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Unless you're a top spec racer, get yourself a cheaper servo. I've got Blue Bird (cheap!) and Savox (pricey!) and haven't really noticed a difference. Even just for club racing, cheap servos work in minis. I would suggest metal gears, though.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:32 PM   #18455
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Looking for something outside the square a bit? Local r/c parts supplier Bezerk r/c is building up this sucker..

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Old 02-25-2013, 12:44 AM   #18456
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Hi guys. Whats the recommended spec for a servo in a M03 ??

My old Futaba has a few issues, needs to be replaced.
Does the M03 actually need high speed & good torque ??
I have a few to choose from, I just not sure which one to use, from Fut 3003(& Sanwa equivalent) & BlueBird BMS-631 all the way up to hi-speed Ko-Propro

Cheers
Sorta depends on how long you're going to be around. If you plan on being in the hobby for a spell, get the best servo you can afford. I'm partial to JR and KO servos, and will use a Futaba on occasion. Good servos are cheaper in the long run. The average life of the last 3 JR servos I had to retire was 12+ years. The average price was about $80.

Torque is nice to have, but the ultra speed servos are not necessary. In fact many experienced Mini drivers will use servo speed adjustments as a tuning aid. Often servo speed is slowed down to tame a car that is loose on corner entry.

Get a standard size or a mid profile, metal geared one. Avoid really cheap servos cause they are too expensive. Also, you can notice the difference between a really good servo and a cheapie. Most good servos will center better and are smoother in operation.

I hope you don't have the same experience as a good friend of mine, very stubborn friend, who balked at buying the Jr servo I was pushing. $120 was way too much money. He bought a $30 servo, then another after that failed, then another, when that failed. His third servo has been giving him good service, but it's getting a little stiff. I'm curious if he'll buy a fourth one or go with a Futaba, cause I know he won't give me the satisfaction of buying a JR.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:17 AM   #18457
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Sorta depends on how long you're going to be around. If you plan on being in the hobby for a spell, get the best servo you can afford. I'm partial to JR and KO servos, and will use a Futaba on occasion.
Ive had 3 KO servos fail on me, for different reasons. Not good, 1 was the most expensive servo Ive ever bought. But I still run a KO in my Xray. I dont think I'll buy another. Perhaps just my bad luck, it happens.
On the other hand, there is nothing worse than a cheap servo that wanders, Ive had a couple of cheapies do that (they went in the bin). Quite embarassing as your car wanders left to right down the straight & getting strange looks from those watching

To be honest ,Im not that keen on using my BlueBird servo ,even though it may be 100% OK. Maybee just save all the hassles of track testing my cheaper servos & buy a Savox ?
Are the Savox 1251's still a issue free servo, in a mini ? Overkill in the mini ? Do the savox metal gears get slop after a while ?

Cheers
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:18 AM   #18458
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Ha. I learnt that lesson too.

After buying a JR heli I started buying JR servos and still have not retired any, 15 years later. Speed and high torque may not help drive the mini but the quality sure saves the servos in a crash. Major crashes in TC racing that have ripped apart my front suspension have left the servo unimpressed. Of course, a good saver is mandatory. Your car may not last 15 years but a good servo will survive several cars as mine demonstrate.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:38 AM   #18459
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I run the Savox 1251 in my mini, works great. I recommend running a glitch buster style cap though. My son has a bluebird servo in his mini and I have a bluebird servo in my touring car and they work very well.
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:56 AM   #18460
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had a good weekend racing here in Holland , we had an international Mini challenge

I was the fastest M05 and my fastest lap was only 0.3 slower then the fastest M03 , unfortuntly my luck in the finals wasnt so good and i finished 7th , started 4th

set up was
Front

springs were Mugen white HARD springs
450 oil 3 hole pistons , and 2mm spacer under the piston in M chassis shocks carbon shock mount shocks in the outer hole
2 degrees camber and 2mm spacer on the steering rods

rear hole on the upright for steering and 2mm spacer under the ball

Rear

Tamiya white springs
550 oil 3 hole pistons and 2mm under the piston in the M chassis shocks
2 degrees of camber , upper hole on the camber link alloy 1.5 degree to in blocks hard rear stabi


we had to use M grippers and grip roll was a nightmare , super glued the front sidewalls of the tyres and i used a Swift body ,

lead in the front bumper and on the opposite side of the motor to balance the car out

if i think of anything else i post it , was still searching for more cornerspeed but the car was really well balanced and tapping dots was no problem as the car wouldnt roll over



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Old 02-25-2013, 08:40 AM   #18461
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Like I said. For most people the M03 is the better car. Not knocking the M05, just pointing out that the M03 is better for MOST people. This is especially true for newbies.

I finally have a M05 that works. It took a lot of time and effort and some out of the box thinking to make it that way. Frankly, it's better than my M03s at certain tracks.
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Old 02-25-2013, 08:43 AM   #18462
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Here's a pic of last weekends race. Phil is the Orange car



Regards Robert
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:01 AM   #18463
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I personally find the M05 is smoother and easier to drive fast. I think the M03 is easier to get fast..but at least on carpet the M05 is king in my eyes. I ran the 03 for many years and its proven to be fast and tough. If someone asked just starting out in mini is say go with an 03 because its cheap, easy and plentiful...if they were gonna spend time tweaking and setting up and wanted to race tcs ..id say 05. I remember last time at the Memphis tcs, the 05 was 1/2 a sec a lap faster than very well set up 03s..maybe it was the long wheelbase
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:27 PM   #18464
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does anyone know if corsair racing still exists? cant find a website or much info on them
thanks in advance
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Old 02-25-2013, 02:12 PM   #18465
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Skiv: Looks like RCMart and a few others still have some product. Couldn't say if they're still in business though. There are a few of these manufacturers who seem to fly under the radar.

Anyhoo, last week, a friend looked at my M03 and told me that my CVDs were rusty. I thought he was crazy, but when I looked there was a very light coating of surface rust beginning to appear. It's a bit weird because my car never goes anywhere near water and the humidity here especially in winter, is next to nothing. I decided to tear them down, as it was time for a rebuild anyway. Here's what I found. (sorry, no pics)

The interior surfaces had a extremely fine coating of flash rust, as if they'd gotten very slightly damp at some point. The anti-wear grease I built them with...last year maybe...was completely gone. They were as dry as a popcorn fart. Here's the interesting bit: The pins inside the joints were notched on both ends, on opposite sides, to about halfway through. Looks like the forces in the driveline eventually wore a groove into them and it kept getting deeper as it went.

Fortunately, the drive pins that go under the wheel hexes are exactly the same size. (2mm x 10mm) I'm pretty sure these are 3Racing CVDs, btw. I think these units have been in my arsenal since around 2008. Not bad for a cheap part, but they may be on their last rebuild.

Jim
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