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Old 02-11-2013, 12:46 AM   #18376
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The step by step manual was exactly what I needed to get the gearbox back together again. Thanks.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:09 AM   #18377
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Does anyone run a multi capacitor on their mini with a silver can? If so, do I still run the factory cap too??
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:48 AM   #18378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
They are 10x15x4 (assuming you are talking about the 3Racing diff), a common RC size.
I'm using the SPEC-R diff, revising the black bushing (original bearing) it has 5mm, do I need to add shims to install 10x15x4 bearings ?

Thanks
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:26 PM   #18379
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Whats up everyone, my M05 pro is pushing on corner exit.
This is a brushed 27t silver can, on carpet long wheel base
Set up: Front
60d raidal tires, full compound
60wt oil, yellow springs
tamiya new ball diff, Very tight
shocks inclined
0 toe
thick sway bar

Rear:
60d tires, full compound
40wt oil, blue springs
2deg toe in
0 camber
thin sway bar

any help would be appreciated, the push is slight but i know its slowing me down!
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Old 02-12-2013, 04:36 PM   #18380
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Have you tried lighter oil and no sway bar on the front? The springs sound about right for a medium grip carpet, but the heavy oil might be holding you back a little.

With the tight diff, you have to allow a little more softness in the nose.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:14 PM   #18381
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I will give that a try, thanks monkey!!
I will remove the sway bar first,
Would loosening the diff do anything?
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:28 PM   #18382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortbusallstar View Post
Would loosening the diff do anything?
It could help on-power steering, but you could lose forward drive as well. Give it a try and see how it is.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:33 PM   #18383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortbusallstar View Post
Whats up everyone, my M05 pro is pushing on corner exit.
This is a brushed 27t silver can, on carpet long wheel base
Set up: Front
60d raidal tires, full compound
60wt oil, yellow springs
tamiya new ball diff, Very tight
shocks inclined
0 toe
thick sway bar

Rear:
60d tires, full compound
40wt oil, blue springs
2deg toe in
0 camber
thin sway bar

any help would be appreciated, the push is slight but i know its slowing me down!
Your whole set up is one that will make your car push. Lose the front sway bar, lighter front shock oil, medium diff, 1-2 degrees of toe out, option shock tower and use the 2 or 3 hole. Rear, run a little camber esp on carpet. if you can get away with it try 1.5 rear hubs.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:44 PM   #18384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortbusallstar View Post
Whats up everyone, my M05 pro is pushing on corner exit.
This is a brushed 27t silver can, on carpet long wheel base
Set up: Front
60d raidal tires, full compound
60wt oil, yellow springs
tamiya new ball diff, Very tight
shocks inclined
0 toe
thick sway bar

Rear:
60d tires, full compound
40wt oil, blue springs
2deg toe in
0 camber
thin sway bar

any help would be appreciated, the push is slight but i know its slowing me down!
Lighter oil and if you have to much front droop in your shocks its letting to much weight transfer to the rear, but be careful taking to much droop out and you'll start making the rear to loose coming out of the corner on power.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:19 AM   #18385
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I've been trying to locate a gear diff for the M05 but the last place that had any was TQ Racing and someone beat me to it. Is there any other place that may carry the gear diff for this car? or if anyone has an extra they want to sell me? From the looks of it TOP has one that I really like because it has the big "O-ring" to seal everything like the gear diff on my TCXX. Thank you in advance if you could point it out to me.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:53 AM   #18386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shortbusallstar View Post
Whats up everyone, my M05 pro is pushing on corner exit.
This is a brushed 27t silver can, on carpet long wheel base
Set up: Front
60d raidal tires, full compound
60wt oil, yellow springs
tamiya new ball diff, Very tight
shocks inclined
0 toe
thick sway bar

Rear:
60d tires, full compound
40wt oil, blue springs
2deg toe in
0 camber
thin sway bar

any help would be appreciated, the push is slight but i know its slowing me down!
No front sway bar and thick rear sway bar. Start there. Also double check your front droop. If your arms go past level on the front, you have too much droop, and your transfering all your weight off the front tires.

Do a single change at a time.
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Old 02-15-2013, 08:34 AM   #18387
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And also the new M05 carbon fibre rear damper stay part no. 54475

Where do we get it??
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Old 02-16-2013, 10:34 PM   #18388
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Originally Posted by rcdave1 View Post
Lighter oil and if you have to much front droop in your shocks its letting to much weight transfer to the rear, but be careful taking to much droop out and you'll start making the rear to loose coming out of the corner on power.
This just doesn't happen. All M03's and M05's push under power. Don't believe me???? Try this experiment. Turn your wheels and apply power. If you don't chop power, the faster you go, the bigger circle you will run. That's a push or to the purists, understeer. Your Mini will not spin out or run smaller circles, which is a loose condition or oversteer. There will be no front to rear weight transfer under these conditions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by axle182 View Post
No front sway bar and thick rear sway bar. Start there. Also double check your front droop. If your arms go past level on the front, you have too much droop, and your transfering all your weight off the front tires.

Do a single change at a time.
Here again, see the above. Also, the arms on my M05 are level with a front ride height of 4.5mm. with a brand new set of Tamiya S-Grips. The front ride height with a set of Swift premounts was 3mm or slightly less. The ride height was measured at the low point of the chassis which is a little forward of the motor on the M05 and just below the motor on the M03. The measuring devices were 6" lengths of drill rod 3, 4, and 5mm in diameter.

The level arms legend that is firmly rooted in Mini folklore was referring to the rear arms not the front. Most of the "modern" set ups will run the front arms slightly below level and the rear arms slightly above level especially on the M05.

You gave some good advice. Some of the reasoning was off IMO. Anyone reading this stuff can come to their own conclusions.
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:25 PM   #18389
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Hi guys.

I dusted off the M04L today, and I really enjoyed blasting around in front of my house with it. It seems to handle better than I remember, to be honest. I figured I might give racing m-chassis another go.

There was one blaring issue, however, and I was hoping you all could help. It does not seem to want to go straight. I wouldn't say it wanders, I would say that it seems like the steering does not return to full neutral after a turn. I don't think there is a problem with the steering servo, but I am not sure. What do you suggest I try? Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:41 AM   #18390
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Check the screws that hold the front half to the rear half of the chassis. That's the number one demon in M04s. After that: servo saver, binding/stuck linkage.
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