Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

I have tried locked and everywhere in between. It tends to push more off power, but pulls very hard on power. I've since gone to medium tight diff and like it better. You can shoe goo the diff to seal it. My driving has evolved over the last couple years towards less point and shoot and a more flowing corner speed style. My m05 diff has been rock solid so I am going to play more on loosening it up a bit more.

robindog

iTrader: (1)

I have a Kimbrough high torque saver on one M05. My problem is play in the (unshimmed) stock steering parts, not a weak saver. I don't think it affects performance as much as my poor driving does...

Alan

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

I replaced all the stock items with the 3racing steering system and a custom made carbon support for between the steering system works great

Granpa

If you have to drive your car down the straight, you have a problem in the steering mechanism of your car. Your Mini should, if you have it pointed in the right direction, require minimal steering inputs.

True, bad driving is always a stumbling block, but is not necessarily as much of a problem as some believe. I am a good example of this. Being 77 years old, with poor distance vision, and frequently seeing double, you really would expect me to be on the bottom rung of the race results. Over the years, however, I've won a number of races and still remain fairly competitive. This should not be true, but I've always had one of the fastest Minis at a race. Many so called bad drivers are just driving a piece of "crap". A really good car with a strong motor can often times make you look a lot better than you are.

I am going to suggest that you lose the stock steering linkages and replace it with one of the aluminum ones. If you insist on staying with the stock linkages, do not shim it. The tighter it is, the easier it will bend. Even the slightest bend in one of the bell cranks will make the steering go crazy. It's almost always the right bell crank.

Play or slop in the steering is hardly ever a major problem in a Mini, but then, I've never seen how much play you have in your steering.

robindog

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it was my right link that bent.

I want to clarify: I don't have a problem with the play in the steering... I just have play in my steering. I was only trying to convey to someone else that if they just have a little play in their steering, maybe it isn't a problem.

Alan

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I've been experimenting with the floppy tires. Strapping them with a strip of duct tape (2cm x 19cm) seems to work pretty well at creating a more solid base. They sure do push out on the sides though, as the sidewalls are weaker than the foams. Haven't tried using CA on the inside of the sidewalls yet. Any advice on how to do that without gluing my hand to my glasses/workbench/cat?

BTW: Haven't done any road testing at this point. So this may still turn out badly.

+ YouTube Video

TonyD.

iTrader: (43)

Had a great day of on road racing with the M05. I ran a 20 lap race with the fastes time I have ever ran a hot lp at 13.177. getting faster just need to keep tuningI'll get there.

Granpa

Just lay the tire on the workbench and squeeze on the inside sidewall. You may have to use something to smear it to the right places. An allen wrench works well for this-----you know, the ones that came in the kit that you never used, but didn't throw away either.

Thin tire glue doesn't work well, but the regular, which is much thicker does. Any thick cyano should work. Using a Zip kicker might not be a good idea cause it does make the cyano very brittle. Just waiting a few minutes for the glue to set on one side so you can do the other is just common sense.

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

Just a weekend update.

I changed the sways and springs to yellow front, blue rear, stif rear bar soft front. I reset ride height with the back a little lower then the front, and the front arms at level. I also had too much front camber (3*) and have brought that down to 1*.

Traction roll virtually went away. The issue now seems to be heat in the rear tires. After 5-6 min they warm up enough to pick up all kinds of garbage on the track, which makes the back end really squirrely the rest of the run. On a TC, collection garbage on the tires either meant you were spending way too much time off line, and usually that your setup was off and you were overworking the tires. Normally I would consider less rear toe, but only at 2* now. I am not sure if I should try less toe on the rear or look somewhere else.

thetweeker

When mounting new tires, do most glue the foam inserts to the tire or not ?

OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

So I have got the itch for possibly getting a mini. Since there are so many different versions of this car, which one seems to be the one majority of people are running? M05 or M06?

The class looks super fun and I just got a Tamiya 417 so I am looking to get a second class going that will be fun so I am not sitting around the majority of the day.

OnRDPassion

iTrader: (59)

Double post

marcos graveyar

Not.

marcos graveyar

M05's far outnumber M06's at my club. M05's tend to be more forgiving during a race when there is contact.

fx35rc

iTrader: (8)

Get the M05. Mini class are the funnest. Also mini guys are helpful and fun to be around with at tamiya track