Tamiya mini cooper
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Nolo148, are you talking about the Orca spec systems? The number one issue with them, or any BL system, is the torque they produce. Maintaining corner speed and managing wheel spin are the biggest factors in going fast. Makes me miss the soft launch of silver cans a little bit.
Mini weight: Barely 1200g ready to race. SWB, 3300mah lipo. Corners better at 1400g, but is a pig out of slow corners.
Mini weight: Barely 1200g ready to race. SWB, 3300mah lipo. Corners better at 1400g, but is a pig out of slow corners.
Tech Elite
hey grandpa thanks
the car is a swb but will move to mwb for the race i think as my home track is tight and technical but the ther track where the race is is bigger open and flowing , and of coarse it is carpet ;-) at the moment here in NL there is snow on the ground outside so indoors at the moment
did look towards tweek , altered the shock preload and this helped emensly but i am interested in your Detweeking procedure
the car is a swb but will move to mwb for the race i think as my home track is tight and technical but the ther track where the race is is bigger open and flowing , and of coarse it is carpet ;-) at the moment here in NL there is snow on the ground outside so indoors at the moment
did look towards tweek , altered the shock preload and this helped emensly but i am interested in your Detweeking procedure
A tweak station may be better, but this works for me. First set your ride height and whatever else you can set like the TX trim to zero. Set with the shock collars even. Locate and mark the midpoint of the chassis. Lift the car at that point with an X-acto or a small round rod or even an allen driver. One tire will lift off the table before the other. Go diagonally across the car and screw that shock collar down and/or raise the shock collar on the same side. If you're checking from the rear of the car, you adjust the shock collars on the front. You have to go up on one and down on the other or you will change the ride height. Turn the car around and do the other end.
There are a couple of things to be aware of though. Your shocks must smoothly fully extend w/out binding or this won't work. Have the car ready to run with the battery installed and hooked up. It will change your steering trim and you should reset you steering linkages rather than banging in a bunch of trim. The first time you do this, it takes a bit of time cause you have to fiddle with the steering linkage. Subsequent times only take a few minutes.
I have a board with leveling screws and 4 small scales, which can be placed under each wheel. I rarely use it now cause the above procedure gets it pretty close.
Last edited by Granpa; 01-12-2013 at 06:43 PM. Reason: addition of one word
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Thanks for going to the source on this one, Bob! I know there have been multiple suppliers for some time. A few years ago, the regular stock would be marked as "made in xxxxxxx" but the really good tires said "made in Japan" on the box. Even though the Japanese tires were softer, they weren't as gummy as this batch! I'll try a few tricks to firm them up.
Nolo148, are you talking about the Orca spec systems? The number one issue with them, or any BL system, is the torque they produce. Maintaining corner speed and managing wheel spin are the biggest factors in going fast. Makes me miss the soft launch of silver cans a little bit.
Mini weight: Barely 1200g ready to race. SWB, 3300mah lipo. Corners better at 1400g, but is a pig out of slow corners.
Mini weight: Barely 1200g ready to race. SWB, 3300mah lipo. Corners better at 1400g, but is a pig out of slow corners.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
May seem like a silly question, but I assume mixing reinforced gears and standard is ok? No tolerance issues?
Tech Elite
Please, I do know the reason why this is so, if this is so. Don't need anyone to explain it.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
The other things to watch for are, of course, the aforementioned tweak, some kind of parasitic drag on one side, or something broken. About your launch out of corners: What have you got for a diff. Most of the faster guys in WCICS are running tight, oil filled diffs or spools. (...and they're really incredible drivers. Our talent pool compares very well with any other. I'm still wearing water wings in the shallow end.)
Jim
I've found it's more often alignment than tweak that does this, unless the tweak is serious. It's possible to have what looks like a perfectly aligned car go our of whack. As GP said, getting the alignment right is preferable to feeding in a bunch of trim to correct for bad alignment. I'm usually able to eyeball my alignment within a hair and adjust sub-trim to correct if necessary. Sometimes I nail it, dead on.
The other things to watch for are, of course, the aforementioned tweak, some kind of parasitic drag on one side, or something broken. About your launch out of corners: What have you got for a diff. Most of the faster guys in WCICS are running tight, oil filled diffs or spools. (...and they're really incredible drivers. Our talent pool compares very well with any other. I'm still wearing water wings in the shallow end.)
Jim
The other things to watch for are, of course, the aforementioned tweak, some kind of parasitic drag on one side, or something broken. About your launch out of corners: What have you got for a diff. Most of the faster guys in WCICS are running tight, oil filled diffs or spools. (...and they're really incredible drivers. Our talent pool compares very well with any other. I'm still wearing water wings in the shallow end.)
Jim
However, my car seems to have a problem after turning left or right. For example, I've noticed when I turn left and then let go of the steering wheel, the left wheel has like 3 or 4 degrees of toe out. Same with the right wheel. Im using a sanwa digital servo so I dont understand why its happening.
Also how are you guys measuring toe out/in?
Thanks
Nolo148,
I would be checking my servo saver if you using one. Sounds like it is not working correctly. I would also check the linkages between the knuckles and steering to ensure they are not bent.
Later,
Calvin.
I would be checking my servo saver if you using one. Sounds like it is not working correctly. I would also check the linkages between the knuckles and steering to ensure they are not bent.
Later,
Calvin.
Im running the stock gear diff stuffed with putty.
However, my car seems to have a problem after turning left or right. For example, I've noticed when I turn left and then let go of the steering wheel, the left wheel has like 3 or 4 degrees of toe out. Same with the right wheel. Im using a sanwa digital servo so I dont understand why its happening.
Also how are you guys measuring toe out/in?
Thanks
However, my car seems to have a problem after turning left or right. For example, I've noticed when I turn left and then let go of the steering wheel, the left wheel has like 3 or 4 degrees of toe out. Same with the right wheel. Im using a sanwa digital servo so I dont understand why its happening.
Also how are you guys measuring toe out/in?
Thanks
I did also have a problem with one of the bell cranks bending and causing the steering to bind. In my case, it prevented full steering travel, and caused the steering to fail to recenter when it was far off center.
Alan
Tech Champion
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I've noticed on the M05 that the steering is sloppy enough that it doesn't fully recenter after turning in either direction. Tis is a bit annoying when you are trying to center the servo, but doesn't seem to be a problem when driving. Just don't let go of the wheel and expect it to drive straight: steer it there, instead.
I did also have a problem with one of the bell cranks bending and causing the steering to bind. In my case, it prevented full steering travel, and caused the steering to fail to recenter when it was far off center.
Alan
I did also have a problem with one of the bell cranks bending and causing the steering to bind. In my case, it prevented full steering travel, and caused the steering to fail to recenter when it was far off center.
Alan
what kind of servo saver are you using?? the kit one would cause some of what you're talking about...put upgrading to a kimborough or the Tamiya hi-torque will help minimize some of the centering issue
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
sill question...
does anyone know if the Eunos body will fit the M05?? I wanna try something different
does anyone know if the Eunos body will fit the M05?? I wanna try something different
Tech Elite
This may have been posted before, but has anyone tried a spool???? What are the driving characteristics and how durable are they?????
When you "stuff" a gear diff, how tightly do you pack it???? I've always just shimmed mine and my one attempt to "stuff" a gear diff was a disaster. Took me hours to clean it all up. What do you use?????
Who has the best oil filled gear diff???? Presently I have the SpecR unit sitting on my bench, but really have some misgivings about how fragile the gears look. It still hasn't seen the inside of my Outlaw Mini.
Outlaw Mini. Definition. One that does not comply with TCS Rules.
When you "stuff" a gear diff, how tightly do you pack it???? I've always just shimmed mine and my one attempt to "stuff" a gear diff was a disaster. Took me hours to clean it all up. What do you use?????
Who has the best oil filled gear diff???? Presently I have the SpecR unit sitting on my bench, but really have some misgivings about how fragile the gears look. It still hasn't seen the inside of my Outlaw Mini.
Outlaw Mini. Definition. One that does not comply with TCS Rules.