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Old 01-10-2013, 01:40 PM   #18181
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Originally Posted by orcadigital View Post
I don't think anyone is stalking you. You just post questionable advice and get very defensive/offensive when someone disagrees...and you do it all over rctech.

Granpa, regarding traction rolling, I very much like the idea of fixing it without CA. I have some things to try (shock/spring/sway bar tweaks) that will be first, but was wondering about tires. Spec tire out our local track is Sweep, and we can run 25's, 33's or 40's. I am running 40's all around on my M05 (high traction carpet, club level, not national level high grip) and the thing turns like a monster (almost 12th scale twitchy). Even backing off to full rear tire additive and none on the front, once the fronts warm up, it wants to roll. Is some of this just a factor in using slicks that I need to work around? I am not sure I want to run staggered compounds front to rear, but with the spring suggestions (I run hard front, soft rear like in TC currently which seems to possibly be backwards), I am not sure what tires and which side of the car to start with.

Someone posted that just changing springs is not enough, but the common setup advice is always to change one thing at a time. My experience is TC and pan car, so this mini is all new to me. I am not worried about top speed, and have little inclination to go crazy wrenching on it (it is a stress reliever class), I just want to make it a little less rolly polly.

I currently have the stiff front sway bar on it, blue front, red rear springs, 35wt AE oil, stock camber and toe, ride height is lower arms level, spec R oil filled gear diff with 100k in it (TC's ruined me for ball diffs). Slowing down steering speed and travel has helped some, stiffening the front has really had little to no effect (originally no swaybar and yellow front springs). I know I am falling into the TC setup trap of stiffening the front, which is why I am asking and my lack of mini knowledge.

Thanks!
Try yellow front, red rear. I have the plated roll bar on rear, not plated on front. I think that is hard rear/soft front. Switching to LWB made the most difference on our track.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:21 PM   #18182
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No m03 should ever be retired ! Same goes for the m05.... The others 04/06 are more retirement friendly.... There are too many rear wheel drives and Awd's out there to not want to have a pure Fwd Car....
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:19 PM   #18183
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Grandpa..sorry..I didn't see your response a while back. This thread has been moving! I am back and getting my minis up to snuff. I would really really like to make Nationals again. There isn't anything like Tamiyas USA track!!

I've spent some time disassembling rebuilding my cars and looking very close at anything that can squeeze any more performance out, but honestly...the most performance to gained is track time...more and more track time. I'm debating on bringing my beast M03 out of retirement...have to see. TCS season is coming up quick!!
The M03 rules at the Tamiya these days. Right now the 03 is about 0.3 to as much as 0.5 sec per lap quicker. The track has changed a bit since you were last here. There is less grip now so they are spraying on occasion. MWB or the LWB Minis are the quickest.

Glad to hear you're coming back out this year.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:36 PM   #18184
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Do the ref shocks for the m sized cars use 10mm shock pistons???
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:57 PM   #18185
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Default Tamiya Cvd's

Jim, So many Tamiya Cvd failures, and blue lock-tight no help. That tri-pod design makes the pin bend, at least flex, whenever the wheel takes a whack. Bingo, pin's out, gouging a big groove in my pretty blue (expensive) hub.
So my friend Mark says he'll do it. I watched him. Nothing different from the way I did it I could see. He's just a more gifted mechanic with torque wrench fingers. Haven't had a failure since Mark took over!
But Cal's TOP method sounds best. Does Tamiya really make such a cap? Anyone actually try the heat-shrink method?

Axle pins are 10mm, but the supplied Cvd pins are like 9.8mm. One would think the longer would work best...
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:13 PM   #18186
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There's also the option of the pins with a notch machine into them. Won't stop a grub screw from backing out, but it will give you a little more time before it machines out the inside of your knuckles.

Heat shrink has been used in the past, but it doesn't seem so common these days. Could be worthwhile as cheap insurance.
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #18187
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I use the Heat shrink tubing that has the glue on the inside that flow when heated. Never lost a pin or have had the shrink fall off yet.But now that I've seen the TOP pieces I will be ordering a pack of them.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:06 PM   #18188
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Using the heatshrink tube method to help retain the pins. I just make sure to check and replace when neededevery so often. Saw the Top rings but need to keepthe car TAC compliant. Did make a set of rings before from an old set if TiR spool cup retainers which wasn't using anymore...
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:56 PM   #18189
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Default Cvd Pins

Only my experience, but the notched pins were worse!
Can you delete the grub screw using shrink tubing? And where the heck does one get shrink tubing with glue inside?
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:00 PM   #18190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
The M03 rules at the Tamiya these days. Right now the 03 is about 0.3 to as much as 0.5 sec per lap quicker. The track has changed a bit since you were last here. There is less grip now so they are spraying on occasion. MWB or the LWB Minis are the quickest.

Glad to hear you're coming back out this year.
What's the general consensus as to why the M03 is working better? And do you feel it's specific to the TA track, the lower grip?

Also you were saying the older, non rebuildable universals are preferred...is that just from a durability standpoint or less friction at extreme angles?
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:56 PM   #18191
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What's the general consensus as to why the M03 is working better? And do you feel it's specific to the TA track, the lower grip?

Also you were saying the older, non rebuildable universals are preferred...is that just from a durability standpoint or less friction at extreme angles?
The consensus seems to that the higher CG and the direct steering linkages work better here. The 03 carries more corner speed than the 05 and has a broader range in tuning. The 05 is really fussy and you can be dialed at 10AM and screwed at 3PM. I'd explain,but you're smarter than I am, so you probably know why.

The one piece universals are just smoother with less wheel hop at full lock. Not important to the guys who finesse their way around corners. but not many of those guys around. Most of us are wheel bangers so it may be important-----can't say for sure cause I don't know. Why take a chance tho, right????

Brandon K, Michael Monaghan, and the White Bros. have all won the Trip so are gone now. Danny Eggar and Chuck Leslie are still around as is Craig Richter and Kevin Nino. So far no new talent has emerged so these are the guys to beat from our area. Poor Danny has been second two or three years in a row, but i could be mistaken about that.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:06 AM   #18192
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Hey guys , some advice , rebuilt my M05 today for a big race next month

Fitted some adjustable upper arms , and want to know whatmyou set the camber at ??

Also the car has a tendancy to pull right when i pull full throttle from a standing start , all bearings are good and everything is free and well oiled , on the straight it goes straight

Any ideas ?? I am running a 3racing gear diff with 500,000 oil in there

Thanks Phil

Any ideas for set ups on M-grips ???
Anyone ???
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:43 AM   #18193
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Maybe the reason the higher CG m03 works better than the lower CG m05 is the fact that the moment arm between the roll Center and CG is smaller, since the suspension geometry affecting the location of the roll Center is fixed... The m05 will have a higher tendency to flip, eventhough the CG is lower, when running the same springs as the m03. Theoretically, you'll have to run less droop and softer springs on the m05 than on the m03 to get the same results..
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:11 AM   #18194
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
Try yellow front, red rear. I have the plated roll bar on rear, not plated on front. I think that is hard rear/soft front. Switching to LWB made the most difference on our track.
I was running that spring combo first, and replaces the yellows with the harder blues, and then added the front sway. I am already running LWB with the Mito body, and who knows, maybe with it's height, it is assisting with the roll. I am hoping to get out some on Saturday to work on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Laguna Bozo View Post
Only my experience, but the notched pins were worse!
Can you delete the grub screw using shrink tubing? And where the heck does one get shrink tubing with glue inside?
The tubing itself I don't think I would trust. The heat shrink tubing with glue inside is usually referred to as marine heat shrink. It is available at some hardware stores, harbor freight, online, etc. It usually runs 3-5x the price of regular heat shrink though.

The S411 DCJ axles come with it already on, and unlike every other axle I have used, have yet to have a failure. Pretty impressive actually.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:20 AM   #18195
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Maybe the reason the higher CG m03 works better than the lower CG m05 is the fact that the moment arm between the roll Center and CG is smaller, since the suspension geometry affecting the location of the roll Center is fixed... The m05 will have a higher tendency to flip, eventhough the CG is lower, when running the same springs as the m03. Theoretically, you'll have to run less droop and softer springs on the m05 than on the m03 to get the same results..
Nah, that's not it.
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