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Old 12-23-2012, 10:41 AM   #18031
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Brakes are the enemy of crashes!
I like to RACE. Get a few inches off Grandpa's butt, keep it there as long as needed until he pulls one of his "square corner" lines, slip under and off you go.
That's fun racing. Can't do that without brakes!
Merry Xmas and happy racing,
Craig
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:23 AM   #18032
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Hi Granpa,

Yes, I was told this was a David Jun diff mod when he was using the TA03 touring car.

When you clamp down on the thrust bearing with some pliers or a vice you can see it getting thinner, the 1150 just stays the same thickness, it doesn't budge.

I've heard of people running without 1 or 2 of the cone washers but using an 1150 bearing to get a more consistent tightness on their diff. But in terms of feel, their diff felt identical to a standard TA03 diff with AW grease.

I've also heard that there is a difference in thickness from thrust bearing to thrust bearing, which is why an 1150 is said to be more consistent. I can't confirm how true this is as I can't be bothered measuring all the different thrust bearings :-)

I went to the 1150 diff earlier this year. The standard TA03 diff was fine when freshly built with the AW grease, but after 2 runs it would find its level and it just wasn't tight enough. Running the TA03 diff with the 1150 made it too tight initially, but it was more consistent, so I ran with it for a few race meetings. I found that the tightness tapered off after 3 or 4 race meetings, but it was still a lot tighter than a standard TA03 diff. The downside was there was a lot more wheel chatter on full lock. This problem was solved by using the Yeah Racing double joint universals, which I've found to be the strongest out of the double joint universals for the mini, but after a few hard hits at a couple of race meetings the universals would break.
Also the wear on the tires was a lot worse with the tighter diff. I've now changed back to the standard TA03 diff with AW, and standard Tamiya universals.

I've tried the TA03 oneway in the mini, but back in the sport tuned motor days ... it was fun, until there was someone crashed in front of you, and you needed to stop ...
Tim, read your post with a lot of interest. The 1150 bearing mod must work and there was no questioning on that point. The main concern was the longevity of the bearing. If the cone washers are assembled correctly, you will load outer race one way and the inner race the other. If assembled incorrectly, the bearing becomes an expensive spacer. I really hate working on cars and just like to go out and drive. The standard TA03 diff, assembled properly with TLC, will usually go over 6 months before a rebuild. I just can't see an 1150 modded diff doing that.

Don't know if you've ever tried the R1 Wurks universals, but they are really a quality unit. I use them for practice, but do have to use the Tamiya units for the TCS races. Also have found the one piece Tamiya universals to be much smoother than the built up ones.
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:35 AM   #18033
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Hello ,first post here. I am running a M05 on a tight technical carpet track with a savox 1251 servo. I have been thinking of upgrading my servo to something better ,possibly Futaba BLS451,9452, or even a S9452HV for serious speed and power. Has anyone tried these servos or any other hi-end servos in their mini's,and is there anything to gain by upgrading ?
Hi end servos usually give you better centering, faster servo speeds, better gears and bearings so are more durable and long lasting.

Can't comment on the Futaba servos cause I'm partial to the JR and KO servos.
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Old 12-23-2012, 01:00 PM   #18034
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Originally Posted by Laguna Bozo View Post
Brakes are the enemy of crashes!
I like to RACE. Get a few inches off Grandpa's butt, keep it there as long as needed until he pulls one of his "square corner" lines, slip under and off you go.
That's fun racing. Can't do that without brakes!
Merry Xmas and happy racing,
Craig
True. Brakes are wonderful things and it's beautiful to see a good driver use them well. Sadly, I am a terrible driver and with my disability, my finger won't move that direction. Tried drag brakes without much success, either. I can't ever run the one way for any real length of time anyway. It doesnt seem durable and has gone funny a few times. I do enjoy having at least some naturally occurring "engine braking". Also, if I break it (seems likely) it's the only one I have.

Now all of that's out of the way: Stay away from Granpa's butt! It's dangerous and could go off without warning at any time.

Merry Xmas to all of you guys! Thanks for another great year of advice and interesting questions. It's the gift that keeps on giving!

Jim
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Old 12-23-2012, 02:42 PM   #18035
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Default Grandpa's Butt

Oh Jim, you just created a visual I wasn't ready for!
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Old 12-26-2012, 12:30 PM   #18036
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Got some Q:

What are the lightest Tamiya wheels?
Is the M05, M06 sway bar compatible with the M04?
Can I use the Carbon front & rear damper stay on a M04?
No one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
54178 = 1.5 deg
54327 = 1.0 deg
Thx.

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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
New MWB Honda Jazz bodyshell from Team Titan/Blitz

That's exactly what we don't need. It looks fast.. too fast. This is what happened to TC's. We need realism and not sleek undetailed things like that. It'll take away the charm of mini's
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Old 12-26-2012, 08:08 PM   #18037
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Got one for Christmas and I did the little car. Do have a question though as this is my first FWD only car. When the throttle is engaged and you turn the wheels I hear what sounds like a rubbing sound. Is this due to the bearings or is it something else? The noise gets progressively louder as I turn the wheels to the far left/right.
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Old 12-27-2012, 03:09 AM   #18038
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Could be dog bone chatter, have you put any foam or O-rings in the drive cups ?
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:55 AM   #18039
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Hi Granpa,

Maintenance free is the best way to be ... the 1150 bearing will hold up for 3 months that I know of, but I'm pretty sure 6 months would be possible. Maybe build up a 2nd mini and install the 1150 diff into it and see how it goes. But if you're happy with the TA03 diff then stick with it. I only recommend the 1150 if people are looking for maximum rip out of the corners. If you run zero degrees front toe setting you will need to dial in some toe out to keep it in a straight line, when I went from the normal TA03 diff to the 1150 it was almost impossible to keep in a straight line until I put around 2 degrees toe out.

I've seen the R1 universals but haven't bought them yet, I'll have to buy a set and report back :-)
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Old 12-27-2012, 08:11 AM   #18040
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Could be dog bone chatter, have you put any foam or O-rings in the drive cups ?
Nope, haven't even driven it yet. First heard the noise when I turned it on the first time to check if everything worked. If I shim it with some o rings will that help?

Looks like I'm adding universals to the list after shocks and bearings.
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Old 12-27-2012, 10:31 AM   #18041
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o-rings or some fuel tubing. Step 7 in the manual only lists 1 o-ring but I've found about 5mm of fuel tubing works better.
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:55 AM   #18042
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Did you try these foam damper bushing in the axle cup as spacer?
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53577

As for universal shaft, I have a set of the original style (non assembly one) available, $10.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53205
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Old 12-27-2012, 01:43 PM   #18043
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Thanks to both of you. Guess I should have read the manual. But I didn't read the one for my Mini E Revo and that was fine. I'm going to try the file tubing trick when I get home. Hopefully that cuts back on the chattering. I've had this car for three days and still haven't driven it yet.
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:01 AM   #18044
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Happy new year! Lets hope this is the year Tamiya comes to their senses and re-releases the M03, while simultaneously discontinuing the 05 and 06!
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:25 AM   #18045
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Now you wouldn't be trying to stir people up would you Jim?....
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