R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-20-2012, 08:15 AM   #18016
Tech Adept
 
The Big Wig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: A.K.A. Barry White
Posts: 150
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoBrainer View Post
The transponder is just taped to the chassi.
I'm not sure what you are talking about.
The carbon plate on top of the servo.
The Big Wig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2012, 12:04 PM   #18017
Tech Elite
 
tony gray's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,213
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
What's the difference betweet 54178 and 54327?
54178 = 1.5 deg
54327 = 1.0 deg
tony gray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2012, 02:27 PM   #18018
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 5,843
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Big Wig View Post
Who makes that transponder mount?
That's a Yeah Racing piece. It went out of production last year. I've got one just to stop the left servo mount from breaking. The part number is M03-039BU or some variation of that. It's listed as "aluminum servo mount with sensor plate".

Good luck!
__________________
Stab it and steer.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2012, 11:11 PM   #18019
Tech Master
 
over gear's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,091
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

I just got a TA03 ball diff. To make it spool-like tight, I was told to remove one of the cone washers.

According to the instructions, the cone washers goes like this:

() DIFF )()

I hope the illustration makes sense Which one should I remove?
over gear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 08:59 AM   #18020
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by over gear View Post
I just got a TA03 ball diff. To make it spool-like tight, I was told to remove one of the cone washers.

According to the instructions, the cone washers goes like this:

() DIFF )()

I hope the illustration makes sense Which one should I remove?
Leave out one of the small ones and cinch the diff screw down snug. Diff will be very tight, but doesn't remain smooth for very long. This was a common "trick" a couple of years ago.

I wouldn't do it for longer tracks, but might be just the ticket for the small carpet tracks. Expect to rebuild the diff frequently though.
Granpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 12:55 PM   #18021
Tech Elite
 
tony gray's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,213
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

New MWB Honda Jazz bodyshell from Team Titan/Blitz

tony gray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2012, 02:13 PM   #18022
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 157
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

^ Very nice.. been running the C30 body for a while now.. might be time to switch!
jjjheimer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 05:01 AM   #18023
Tech Regular
 
Tim K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 287
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by over gear View Post
I just got a TA03 ball diff. To make it spool-like tight, I was told to remove one of the cone washers.

According to the instructions, the cone washers goes like this:

() DIFF )()

I hope the illustration makes sense Which one should I remove?
You can also try leaving the cone washers as standard and just replace the thrust bearing with a standard 1150 sized metal bearing ... if you use that with AW grease on the balls, it will be super tight!
Tim K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 09:34 AM   #18024
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,367
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim K View Post
You can also try leaving the cone washers as standard and just replace the thrust bearing with a standard 1150 sized metal bearing ... if you use that with AW grease on the balls, it will be super tight!
I've heard of this one too, but it never made much sense to me. Also, rumor has it that this is the David Jun mod.

I believe the reason the diff action gets tighter with the substitution of the thrust bearing with the 1150 bearing is that it's thinner. Also, you're asking a radial bearing to act like a thrust bearing and endure loads it wasn't designed to endure. That bearing should not last very long.

I've never tried that mod for the above reason, but will bow to your more extensive experience. And also my reasoning may be in error.
Granpa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 11:51 AM   #18025
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 5,843
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

I've tried the bearing substitution. It may be that I was using a cheap bearing, but it didn't last long. I've always wondered if a higher quality ceramic (like $5 worth of quality!) would have been better

Thinking about chucking my one way diff into the backup car. I've always liked that thing, when its working.
__________________
Stab it and steer.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 09:44 PM   #18026
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,005
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I've tried the bearing substitution. It may be that I was using a cheap bearing, but it didn't last long. I've always wondered if a higher quality ceramic (like $5 worth of quality!) would have been better

Thinking about chucking my one way diff into the backup car. I've always liked that thing, when its working.
cheapskate.brok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2012, 11:46 PM   #18027
Tech Champion
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: SnowMexico
Posts: 5,843
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Brakes? Bah! Sissy stuff. I never use them.
__________________
Stab it and steer.
monkeyracing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 05:45 AM   #18028
Tech Regular
 
Tim K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 287
Default

Hi Granpa,

Yes, I was told this was a David Jun diff mod when he was using the TA03 touring car.

When you clamp down on the thrust bearing with some pliers or a vice you can see it getting thinner, the 1150 just stays the same thickness, it doesn't budge.

I've heard of people running without 1 or 2 of the cone washers but using an 1150 bearing to get a more consistent tightness on their diff. But in terms of feel, their diff felt identical to a standard TA03 diff with AW grease.

I've also heard that there is a difference in thickness from thrust bearing to thrust bearing, which is why an 1150 is said to be more consistent. I can't confirm how true this is as I can't be bothered measuring all the different thrust bearings :-)

I went to the 1150 diff earlier this year. The standard TA03 diff was fine when freshly built with the AW grease, but after 2 runs it would find its level and it just wasn't tight enough. Running the TA03 diff with the 1150 made it too tight initially, but it was more consistent, so I ran with it for a few race meetings. I found that the tightness tapered off after 3 or 4 race meetings, but it was still a lot tighter than a standard TA03 diff. The downside was there was a lot more wheel chatter on full lock. This problem was solved by using the Yeah Racing double joint universals, which I've found to be the strongest out of the double joint universals for the mini, but after a few hard hits at a couple of race meetings the universals would break.
Also the wear on the tires was a lot worse with the tighter diff. I've now changed back to the standard TA03 diff with AW, and standard Tamiya universals.

I've tried the TA03 oneway in the mini, but back in the sport tuned motor days ... it was fun, until there was someone crashed in front of you, and you needed to stop ...
Tim K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 06:09 AM   #18029
Tech Adept
 
marcos graveyar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Newtownforbes, Ireland
Posts: 211
Send a message via AIM to marcos graveyar
Default

Brakes are the enemy of Speed.
marcos graveyar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-23-2012, 10:19 AM   #18030
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 11
Default

Hello ,first post here. I am running a M05 on a tight technical carpet track with a savox 1251 servo. I have been thinking of upgrading my servo to something better ,possibly Futaba BLS451,9452, or even a S9452HV for serious speed and power. Has anyone tried these servos or any other hi-end servos in their mini's,and is there anything to gain by upgrading ?
thetweeker is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Tamiya Mini Cooper M-03L Hop-ups mini71 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 4 05-04-2016 11:07 AM
Tamiya Mini Cooper mach51 R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 10 09-02-2011 12:08 AM
FS:TAMIYA Mini Cooper, TA 04S rthmotorsports R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 10-20-2007 09:37 PM
Tamiya 415 MSX and M03 Mini Cooper F/S Racer X79 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 14 12-22-2006 07:38 AM
Tamiya M01,02,03, or 04 Mini Cooper ccugolf.com R/C Items: Wanted to Buy 2 12-05-2004 08:55 PM


Tags
m03, m03r ules, m05, mini, tamiya


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:34 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0