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Old 09-20-2012, 10:05 AM   #17536
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I guess our differing experiences may be due to different tracks. Here it is almost dangerous to run a Silvercan car with 17.5 powered cars due to the huge disparity in straight line speed.

It also could be how much advance you're using. My 17.5 car has a KO BLZ350 speedo and a Novak Ballistic. The timing on the motor is set to 50+ degrees of advance. The motor did nothing till we cranked past the label. Maybe you just haven't added enough timing.
We don't run any timing in the motor or the ESC.
We run them all together and you can't tell who's running a silver can and who's running a 17.5 without asking them.
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:10 AM   #17537
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Firstly, I could definitely go with SilverShelby and stay with Silver Cans. That way, I can put Grandpa back to work! TCS-handout system works fine...
Nextly, what BL motors are you guys using? The TCS-legal Novak and Reedy have adjustable endbell timing. Guarantee, crank that timing up to 60* and you will be MUCH faster than SCans. And that's with TCS-legal 0* timing speedos, which cost less than $100. Also guaranteed to fry some motors...but you know the old saw about how fast do you want to go?
If cost is the biggest concern, Silver Cans hands down. They are only $15 and we all already have the speedos. My biggest concern is keeping ONE BIG COMPETITIVE HEALTHY CLASS. Out here, if you don't count my goofy buddy SirSpeedy , we haven't had the same guy win two races in a row in years! That's competitive.
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:35 AM   #17538
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I'd be interested to hear what you're running as well. For our series we had Orca wind us "Hobbywing style" motors to run 2200kv and use them with one of their affordable speedys. the whole point of the exercise was to stay as close to silver cans as possible.

As to cost: The club buy in is $85 for the combo. They're dead reliable. When you consider some guys were willing to blow top dollar on the latest ESCs and burn through 3 Red Dots per weekend, it becomes clear why this worked for us. There was an unforeseen benefit, too - the market was flooded with very affordable, very high end brushed speed controls. Rick crawlers have been really happy this year.
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Old 09-20-2012, 12:52 PM   #17539
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Wow! I'd buy into that! Perfect...for racers.
But I can't imagine it could possibly be in Tamiya's best interests to specify a single-maker system, unless maybe their own, which they don't have. Nobody wants Fred's job right now.
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Old 09-20-2012, 01:32 PM   #17540
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What happened to the Volac, the ESC01 and all that? Looks like things were off to a good start.

I can imagine what Fred has to deal with daily. Everyone from bashers to hardcore racers asking for very specific hardware...NOW! I really hope Tamiya (Corporation, Japan) steps it up at some point. They make some seriously good race hardware, but the image is being undermined by sometimes flaky support, eternal re-releases of old product and odd product tangents, like LiFe batteries and 380 motors. Poor Fred is the guy who has to deal with that and all of us as well.
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Old 09-20-2012, 06:29 PM   #17541
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I love the so eloquently written backhanded compliments
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Old 09-21-2012, 05:58 AM   #17542
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Man, we must be in the dark ages here, we race the kit TEU104BK speedo and black can motors.
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Old 09-21-2012, 07:58 AM   #17543
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Man, we must be in the dark ages here, we race the kit TEU104BK speedo and black can motors.
It's not the esc, it's the Blackcan. I haven't even seen one for years. There are better, cheaper, and faster "can" motors available. Every so often, Tamiya produces a really bad product and the Blackcan is one of them. Usually, they will discontinue the product, but they didn't in this case.
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Old 09-21-2012, 09:48 AM   #17544
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Default 3 racing oil filled gear diff

What oil viscocity do you guys usually use when using 3 Racing oil filled gear diff? I m using Kyosho 100k oil right now and it still feels like its diffing out when I punch the throttle out of corners, it feels like it has no forward bite. Please advise.....

Thanks.
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:41 AM   #17545
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Maybe our track is a little more technical, but I have ran the timing past the sticker on my ballistic in every main. I'm not doubting you on the speed difference just haven't seen it here on the east coast. When I run my team powers motor and set the iming to 60 degrees then it becomes ballistic against the typical silver can but still drivable. It really don't matter which way tcs decides to go because we will continue our 17.5 class at my home track and maybe I'll go back and try the silvercan again for tcs, I've just always hated the motor wars that go on with silvercans.
I for one am glad that 17.5 BL has become the setup mostly being used around Maryland... tried it for the first time last weekend (revtech) and loved it. Best part is that even with the timing cranked and no fan, it came off the track cool every time. My esc is spec/no-boost and I can't see the need for any more rip, it's perfect as is. Same power/speed/feel lap after lap, so easy to maintain, I don't think I'd run silvercan ever again to be honest. Has def got my interest in mini re-sparked, having a blast with it.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:19 PM   #17546
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Yes, 17.5 is best with me too. Faster is funer... At Aliso we are right on the edge for that little screw-together plastic chassis though.
But S-grips, yuk. If you don't go too fast, they work better.
My hope joining in here was to help get ideas and thoughts flowing to help Fred decide. Practicing with what we'll race is good! So good job guys, keep it coming...
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:01 PM   #17547
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Originally Posted by Laguna Bozo View Post
Yes, 17.5 is best with me too. Faster is funer... At Aliso we are right on the edge for that little screw-together plastic chassis though.
But S-grips, yuk. If you don't go too fast, they work better.
My hope joining in here was to help get ideas and thoughts flowing to help Fred decide. Practicing with what we'll race is good! So good job guys, keep it coming...
On a normal weekend I run sweep premounts but I never had any problems with S-grips just had to glue the outside of the front tires to get rid of the traction roll issue. Had the same problem with silvercan so I knew what needed to happen.

As for specing a speedo, at our track we allow roar speedos and motors. That works for us since most guys have extra stuff in their race bags and it don't have to be top shelf stuff to work in mini. Tcs racing is already kinda on the expensive side, I know its a free race but when you equate the price of premounts and then your going to spec a system to be used, 17.5 or 21.5 tcs might price themselves out of racers.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:09 PM   #17548
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Originally Posted by nf_ekt View Post
I for one am glad that 17.5 BL has become the setup mostly being used around Maryland... tried it for the first time last weekend (revtech) and loved it. Best part is that even with the timing cranked and no fan, it came off the track cool every time. My esc is spec/no-boost and I can't see the need for any more rip, it's perfect as is. Same power/speed/feel lap after lap, so easy to maintain, I don't think I'd run silvercan ever again to be honest. Has def got my interest in mini re-sparked, having a blast with it.
John, thats the same response I get from most once they try it. I didnt know you were interested in mini all I saw you run was truck. Let me know if you need any setup help if your coming to the Coliseum.
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Old 09-21-2012, 02:21 PM   #17549
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Thumbs up 3Racing Oil Gear Diff

Here in Australia, we use from 300 000 to 500 000 weight oil in these diffs. The oil is like treacle, but it sure gives great acceleration out of the corners and no diffing out action.

The thicker the oil the more wear on the drive train. The 500 000 will mean you need to check the blades regularly otherwise you will damage the alloy outdrives.

Later,

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Old 09-21-2012, 10:56 PM   #17550
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Got a buddy into minis and he picked up a brand new m05 s-spec kit. He got a ta03 ball diff and is having trouble fitting it in...it's too narrow/ too much side to side play. He tried switching the plastic bearing cups around and that didn't help either. Is he supposed to use different outdrives with it? or is there another trick to making it work like using bigger bearings?
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