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Old 09-06-2012, 02:24 PM   #17476
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No difference at all. Nothing, zip, zero, nada.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:05 PM   #17477
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post

Actually, that probably is the only R/C car in the world that doesn't push on power. I haven't seen a TC that doesn't push with the hammer down. Isn't that why we slow down for corners?????

This comment, totally unnecessary by the way, that Mini is both slow and boring to TC drivers is also something I hear from time to time, but not often. I more commonly hear, "you Mini guys sure are having fun". What's fun to one may not be to another. And it's like going up to some guy and telling him "damn, you're wife is sure ugly, and fat too".

I hope you don't feel offended. Those are not my comments, but actual comments that pop up whenever the club is contemplating introducing a mini class. Suffice to say they did in the end introduce a mini class at our club.

And I think you're wrong about pushing. Or perhaps you're right, but in context I think you're wrong. TC cars have reached speeds beyond the power of tires to hold them on, so yes, they need to slow down to go around corners. Or you could put it the other way around, minis are too slow to reach speeds where they push. Either way, depending on track I think you can see a lot of oversteer (in TC). And just from experience, I had more problems with oversteering than pushing on our track.

Back to mini racing, I think you need to choose your track wisely. A large, sweeping track (think 1/8 nitro type track) is not going to be very entertaining to run minis on. I have seen such races. At least not minis with silvercans. Our small indoor track is fun to run minis on, but a bit too crowded given the wandering habits of minis. And don't think it's because the competitors are novices. Some are top TC racers. They know how to tune and drive a car really quickly. But such is the nature of the mini beast. You can tune it, you can dial the slop out, and you can drive it in a straight line. But it's still slow to react and contact sends waves of chaos through the platoon. Again, take this only as a particular experience with constraints or under conditions perhaps non existent elsewhere.

And lastly, in Australia, we don't have the numbers to have dedicated tracks for everything. One track has to do for pretty much everything on road from mini and F1 to TC mod and nitro. Likewise off road tracks.
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Last edited by niznai; 09-06-2012 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 09-07-2012, 01:21 AM   #17478
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Is the tek model ezrun combo from rcecho a good combo? is it the same as a hobbywing and is it legit? i.e. not a fake

If the 25a esc performs the same as a 35a or even a 60a with the 13t motor why are the 35a and 60a sold as a 13t combo?

Last edited by 2hundy; 09-07-2012 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 09-07-2012, 10:10 AM   #17479
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
I hope you don't feel offended. Those are not my comments, but actual comments that pop up whenever the club is contemplating introducing a mini class. Suffice to say they did in the end introduce a mini class at our club.

And I think you're wrong about pushing. Or perhaps you're right, but in context I think you're wrong. TC cars have reached speeds beyond the power of tires to hold them on, so yes, they need to slow down to go around corners. Or you could put it the other way around, minis are too slow to reach speeds where they push. Either way, depending on track I think you can see a lot of oversteer (in TC). And just from experience, I had more problems with oversteering than pushing on our track.

Back to mini racing, I think you need to choose your track wisely. A large, sweeping track (think 1/8 nitro type track) is not going to be very entertaining to run minis on. I have seen such races. At least not minis with silvercans. Our small indoor track is fun to run minis on, but a bit too crowded given the wandering habits of minis. And don't think it's because the competitors are novices. Some are top TC racers. They know how to tune and drive a car really quickly. But such is the nature of the mini beast. You can tune it, you can dial the slop out, and you can drive it in a straight line. But it's still slow to react and contact sends waves of chaos through the platoon. Again, take this only as a particular experience with constraints or under conditions perhaps non existent elsewhere.

And lastly, in Australia, we don't have the numbers to have dedicated tracks for everything. One track has to do for pretty much everything on road from mini and F1 to TC mod and nitro. Likewise off road tracks.
Okay, in order. I'm not offended, but did voice the opinion that the remark was in itself offensive. You'd have to have the sensitivity of an anvil not to realize that.

On power push. This is what I was referring to. Most R/C cars in my experience will widen the arc of a turn when you add lots of power. To me that's a push. The exception to this may be the RWD cars like the F-1, but have little experience with those.

As for the rest, let's just say that your points are well taken. It sounds as if you once raced Minis and now race TCs. Nothing wrong with that. I went the other way from TCs to Minis.
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Old 09-07-2012, 05:37 PM   #17480
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Default Out drives

Is there anyway of stopping the universals from eating into the out drives. I am running the TA03 ball diff on my mo5. My out drives are just about destroyed.
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:01 PM   #17481
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You could use some plastic blades on the dogbones end of the unis. You'd probably need to file the outdrives slot a little. Another option is to use hardened outdrives.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #17482
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You could use some plastic blades on the dogbones end of the unis. You'd probably need to file the outdrives slot a little. Another option is to use hardened outdrives.
Thank, I just seen the hardened out drives and ordered a set. Mind you, I am not a real fan of the ball diff, I have re-built it twice but it just doesn't feel as smooth as it should. One last try then I will try a gear diff I think.
Thanks
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:53 PM   #17483
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Looking for a 16 tooth tamiya pinion if anyone has one, tried to order one but tamiya has discontinued them and mine has gotten misplaced. I'm willing to purchase and pay shipping if anyone can help me out.

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Old 09-07-2012, 09:56 PM   #17484
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Okay, in order. I'm not offended, but did voice the opinion that the remark was in itself offensive. You'd have to have the sensitivity of an anvil not to realize that.

On power push. This is what I was referring to. Most R/C cars in my experience will widen the arc of a turn when you add lots of power. To me that's a push. The exception to this may be the RWD cars like the F-1, but have little experience with those.

As for the rest, let's just say that your points are well taken. It sounds as if you once raced Minis and now race TCs. Nothing wrong with that. I went the other way from TCs to Minis.
Ha. Nice way to put it. Anvil. This is actually quite cool.
I apologise again. I am sorry you thought I was having a dig at you or anyone else Mini racing or not.
I know it is offensive, but it was not my comment and I didn't know it was so widely used to be a stereotype/clichee.

And it doesn't have to be offensive. Boring is a personal experience. I don't get bored in situations where others do. Likewise the other way around.

And no, I have never raced minis. I do like them, and have a whole bunch just for that. I like tuning them and playing with them and perhaps I am trying to get them to handle like a TC which may or may not be a realistic enterprise.

But about push, that was exactly my point. You can not bend the laws of physics. I mean, I think it's normal. Grip (lateral friction - which is what keeps you car on its intended trajectory) is finite. Centrifugal force (which is what is pulling your car off trajectory) is dependent on speed so it will increase forever as long as your speed increases. It is only normal that at some point it will overcome grip and the car will push. Not trying to teach you to suck eggs, more like feeling around to make sure we have the same terminology (after all I speak australian and that calls for some allowance).

As I said, on power, our track is more likely to have your car oversteering than pushing. I have had a bad case of pushing on a wide open circuit here where the first sweeper is taken at full chat and I was running a TA05-R (I know, I just had too much fun) which was really heavy and even though the sweeper was banked it never managed to get rid of understeer (I take it that is pushing in american). But I think the real reason was the steering just did not have enough travel to cut it. No such problem with anyof my other cars (a bunch of Xrays, Kawada, Yokomo). Tell you the truth the Kawada is a brilliantly balanced car good on any track I took it to. Class was 17.5 boosted, so I reckon we had 70-80kph+ by the end of the long straight and still accelerating.

But do these cars push? Oh, I do this test. I run the car at full lock on a spot until I get flat out and look at the turning circle. Well, it is always enlarging until I get to flat out when it is at its largest. That is why I think this is to be expected. That way you can find where the acceleration can be for various turning radius (if you want to keep it steady and considering no other inputs are present - a bit theoretical, I know). Does this mean the cars push?
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Last edited by niznai; 09-07-2012 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 09-07-2012, 09:58 PM   #17485
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They're available on eBay for $5-6 shipped.
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Old 09-07-2012, 11:24 PM   #17486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsr555 View Post
I am not a real fan of the ball diff, I have re-built it twice but it just doesn't feel as smooth as it should.
Buy some of the Yeah Racing (or other cheap) ceramic diff balls. I've got them and no matter how tight I crank it down it's smooth. Never gets close to locking up, though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdave1 View Post
Looking for a 16 tooth tamiya pinion if anyone has one, tried to order one but tamiya has discontinued them and mine has gotten misplaced. I'm willing to purchase and pay shipping if anyone can help me out.

Dave
Locate (or have your local shop order) a Robinson Racing part number 1116. It's steel and will never cack out on you. Or, check M-chassis.com or eBay for a Kawada 16T pinion. (Duraluminum 0.6 mod) They're both cheap and very good.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:57 AM   #17487
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Default Weight distribution...?

What is the best weight distribution for the M05 front rear? 50/50?
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:35 AM   #17488
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I find the car better with more weight forward, but it depends on track conditions. For a longer, lower-traction track I run L wheelbase (which builds up at about 58/42), for shorter, higher-traction tracks I might try the M-wheelbase which builds around 55/45.
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Old 09-09-2012, 09:40 AM   #17489
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Apologies to my Australian friends,but--------

Oversteer = loose
Understeer = push or tight
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:21 AM   #17490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Apologies to my Australian friends,but--------

Oversteer = loose
Understeer = push or tight
Thank you for clarification. I can see how loose and push apply (I sort of suspected those two) but how did "tight" come to mean understeer?
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