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Old 09-01-2012, 08:53 PM   #17461
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I looked at the TCS rules and they are very vague. Is there any rule about cutting chassis parts? Specifically the plate that the esc is mounted to, I want to cut the on/off switch place off.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:08 PM   #17462
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I think general rules 1, 4 and 6 cover this.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:08 PM   #17463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I looked at the TCS rules and they are very vague. Is there any rule about cutting chassis parts? Specifically the plate that the esc is mounted to, I want to cut the on/off switch place off.
All chassis platforms must be built per the instruction manual. Altering their basic structure and design is prohibited.
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:44 PM   #17464
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Question - which is the 3Racing gear diff that's being referred to, and how does one go about breaking it in prior to mounting it in the car?

Punching that into rcmart gives the 39T replacement for M06 and M05.. is that the right one?

Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:21 PM   #17465
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Yes, that's the one. You need to break-in the o-rings on the outdrives as they are too stiff, when you can move the outdrive with limited resistance then the job is done.
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Old 09-01-2012, 11:31 PM   #17466
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I broke mine in by assembling it using Green Slime, then inserting one of the outdrives into my cordless drill and running it, while holding the gear portion. Between that and being sure to sand off the flash on the gears, you're good to go.
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Old 09-02-2012, 12:55 AM   #17467
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Alright, thanks for the tips. I just ordered one. What kind of grease did you use in them?

There's one guy here that has a really well handling M05.. turns on a dime under full power. Wish I can figure out how to make mine do that, it runs very wide turns under full power as it is.
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:33 AM   #17468
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You do not use grease in the 3Racing oil gear diff use 300 000 to 500 000 weight silicon oil. This will provide good drive to the car. I use 300 0oo weight in mine and am very happy with the results.

If your car is pushing, your either trying to drive to fast through the corners or your setup is slightly wrong. You should hit up your fellow racer for advice on his car setup.

Hard to make judgements or offer helpful advice without knowing your current setup.

Factors could include:

front tyre inserts to hard/full
springs to hard and oil to thick
springs to soft up front and car sliding on its belly whilst cornering
diff to tight

Regards,

Calvin
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:49 PM   #17469
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Anyone want a REALLY original M-03?
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:12 PM   #17470
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We have done a bit of comparison testing with 21.5 B/L motors and stock Silvercans. The B/L motors used were the Novak Ballistic and the Reedy Sonic 21.5. The lap times were pretty close with the Silvercan cars with a slight edge. The Silvercan cars were fully sorted and the two B/L cars were not as fully "dialed". In the end, the 21.5 should have a slight edge, but they were close enough that they could probably race together.

Please note that this was at one track and after only one full day of testing. It's probably too early to come to a definite conclusion, but our early testing is very promising. Also the lap timer was set up so that accurate lap times could be measured. These conclusions are based on actual lap times and not comparison running or any other subjective measure of performance.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:39 PM   #17471
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Comments about manufacture of silvercans (Monkeyracing?) are pretty much spot on. BL motors are much closer (actually the ones I have seen run and run against are identical) in performance. I think this is one invaluable point in favour of using BL motors for controlled racing.

Granpa, the last time I run in silvercan class 21.5 BL was allowed and the difference was inexistent (compared on my own car before and after switch). The problem with silvercans (and the reason everybody went to B/L) was their poor reliability and lack of torque. Our indoor carpet track had a rather twisty section where the BL cars would simply outgun the silvercans between corners. Flat out, there was no difference in speed, but acceleration was vastly superior with BL. Remember, we were running TC with open gearing, not minis (boost didn't exist back then). For minis, I think this is where the difference should be expected. If you can plant the power down without understeer, you should be able to shoot yourself out of the corners on a tight track. The only FWD car I have seen capable of doing that however is the old Kyosho Peugeot 205/Honda CRX (remember those?) which is basically a FWD 1/12 pan car. Too bad it's not allowed in racing. That little monster would definitely take FWD to a completely new level and spur developments of FWD platforms that would get a lot of people back into the class (a lot of people around here, used to TC racing complain Mini is boring - read "slow").

One question here. Of all the different versions of gear diffs available for M cars, did anyone try the Spec-R version? How does it compare with others? And is there a Tamiya equivalent (not the old TA03 type gear diffs but a modern version like the Spec-R and the rest of them)?
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Last edited by niznai; 09-05-2012 at 11:40 PM.
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:31 AM   #17472
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From what I have been reading the M tires are the best Tamiya tires for carpet. Are there any aftermarket rubber tires, including slicks, that are any better?
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:35 AM   #17473
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[QUOTE=niznai;11178772]
Granpa, the last time I run in silvercan class 21.5 BL was allowed and the difference was inexistent (compared on my own car before and after switch). The problem with silvercans (and the reason everybody went to B/L) was their poor reliability and lack of torque. Our indoor carpet track had a rather twisty section where the BL cars would simply outgun the silvercans between corners. Flat out, there was no difference in speed, but acceleration was vastly superior with BL. Remember, we were running TC with open gearing, not minis (boost didn't exist back then). For minis, I think this is where the difference should be expected. If you can plant the power down without understeer, you should be able to shoot yourself out of the corners on a tight track. The only FWD car I have seen capable of doing that however is the old Kyosho Peugeot 205/Honda CRX (remember those?) which is basically a FWD 1/12 pan car. Too bad it's not allowed in racing. That little monster would definitely take FWD to a completely new level and spur developments of FWD platforms that would get a lot of people back into the class (a lot of people around here, used to TC racing complain Mini is boring - read "slow").

Actually, that probably is the only R/C car in the world that doesn't push on power. I haven't seen a TC that doesn't push with the hammer down. Isn't that why we slow down for corners?????

This comment, totally unnecessary by the way, that Mini is both slow and boring to TC drivers is also something I hear from time to time, but not often. I more commonly hear, "you Mini guys sure are having fun". What's fun to one may not be to another. And it's like going up to some guy and telling him "damn, you're wife is sure ugly, and fat too".
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:16 AM   #17474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
2hundy,

"I've just picked up a 13t 35a ezrun system for my m05. What do you all recommend as a starting point on the following settings?"

Punch Max
Brake force 100
Drag brake zero
Timing MAx
Initial brake zero or ten


The drag brake and initial brake I run low and use max timing and punch. Try it and see what suits your driving style.

Later,

Calvin
Many thanks for your reply Calvin.

I liked your suggestions a lot. Drag brake at 0 took a little getting used to coming from a brushed motor.
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:49 AM   #17475
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I'm in the market for another ezrun combo for my brother.

The seller I bought my 35a combo from is out of stock.

Since it will only ever be used in an M05, will the 25A esc 13t combo suffice?

Is there any difference in performance with the 13t motor when using the 25a, 35a and 60a escs?
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