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Old 08-26-2012, 11:02 AM   #17446
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I've just picked up a 13t 35a ezrun system for my m05. What do you all recommend as a starting point on the following settings?

Punch
Brake force
Drag brake
Timing
Initial brake

I race on medium grip carpet
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Old 08-27-2012, 03:37 PM   #17447
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The Spec R diffs are very bad. Strip the internal gears far too easy.

As for the 3 racing ones, if you are running the normal other gears then it is how you have built the diff. If you screw the blue end plate on unevenly you will distort the plastic gear. It will be build problem NOT product problem

I'm using the 3Racing gear diff as well. And yeah.. you have to get it right or else it will be uneven. tighten the diff slowly, doing the opposite screws at a time.

Once you've built it correctly, you can forget it was even there.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:17 PM   #17448
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Does anyone have a good m05 carpet setup they could share? Tires will be s-grips and body is Suzuki swift. Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2012, 07:39 PM   #17449
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I'm not sure what your carpet is like there but the fastest guy here last year was running short blue springs all around with 55wt silicone, front toe was almost 0, rear 1.5 The car was reported to be twitchy, but fast out of the corners. Diff was probably very tight.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:08 AM   #17450
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Yeah, agree with you. BL has many advantages, the main one is that there is little variation in performance going from motor to motor. With a Silvercan a thousand rpm variation is not unusual depending on the care the motor received. And that's in Mini. What the TC and F1 guys do to it can only be classified as cruel and unusual punishment.

Nice work winning your series. We don't race much anymore only cause there just aren't that many races anymore here locally. In fact, I don't remember winning for several years now. Oh, I don't feel too bad about this. The group I race with has won the last 6 TCS National championships and we have 2 TCS TC champs who race Minis from time to time. I have tho, at one time or another, finished ahead of all of them, at one race or another. Unfortunately, haven't managed to finish ahead of all of them in one race.

Information in this group is freely passed from one to the other as are parts etc. I do post some of the info on this thread to assist some of the racers who may not know this stuff. Unfortunately, some of the set up tips only apply for TCS racers due to the Spec tire.
Not a big deal, but it was my entry in the racing world. More like work than talent as I was still learning.

Don't race at all these days, though I build the odd car every now and then hoping one day I'll have the time to race again.

I never quite understood what can be done to a silvercan to make it more powerful apart from lining up the bushes correctly and perhaps a bit of comm cleaning when it got too grotty. Running in the bushings, breaking in the brushes may help on a good one, but I never had the desire to bother too much. I don't know what else can be done, and I remember you asked the question of whether or not it was legal (philosophically, because ultimately it is up to the scrutineer to decide regardless of the rules) which made me think if indeed it was or not. It was too much trouble for me for sure and in TC you can push the motor hard and bin it when it's done. Like I said, the quality is not the best so most of them suffered all sorts of problems before they overheated. Some lasted a while (surprisingly), some not so much.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:01 AM   #17451
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Are you by any chance running the 3Racing speed gear set as well? Because the 3Racing counter gear in that set is an appalling moulding and shouldn't be let any where near the car. The diff is one of their better quality parts, apart from the badly-sized o-rings which need serious breaking in.

Would be interesting to hear some feedback on the Spec-R diff.
I'm running the Tamiya black gears in an M06 and speed gear in the M05 with Tamiya black counter gear.

I used Spec-R gear diff in my Touring cars with no problems.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:10 AM   #17452
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Not a big deal, but it was my entry in the racing world. More like work than talent as I was still learning.

Don't race at all these days, though I build the odd car every now and then hoping one day I'll have the time to race again.

I never quite understood what can be done to a silvercan to make it more powerful apart from lining up the bushes correctly and perhaps a bit of comm cleaning when it got too grotty. Running in the bushings, breaking in the brushes may help on a good one, but I never had the desire to bother too much. I don't know what else can be done, and I remember you asked the question of whether or not it was legal (philosophically, because ultimately it is up to the scrutineer to decide regardless of the rules) which made me think if indeed it was or not. It was too much trouble for me for sure and in TC you can push the motor hard and bin it when it's done. Like I said, the quality is not the best so most of them suffered all sorts of problems before they overheated. Some lasted a while (surprisingly), some not so much.
There's a Silvercan thread in this forum that has a lot of posts. Sort of died out lately. BUT, there are a lot of things you can do to increase the Silvercans performance. Some of the newest techniques result in motors that were considered impossible a few years ago. Also these motors will pass any tech except a rpm limit. A sensible rpm limit has pretty much killed most of the motor mods around here in SoCal.

Stuff like proper break in, "setting" the brushes, and a little tap here and a little bang there, can, on some motors give you an extra thousand or two rpms. Is that worthwhile??? To some yes, and to others no. For me, my moneys on the guy with the faster motor, if the other factors are reasonably equal.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:05 PM   #17453
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
There's a Silvercan thread in this forum that has a lot of posts. Sort of died out lately. BUT, there are a lot of things you can do to increase the Silvercans performance. Some of the newest techniques result in motors that were considered impossible a few years ago. Also these motors will pass any tech except a rpm limit. A sensible rpm limit has pretty much killed most of the motor mods around here in SoCal.

Stuff like proper break in, "setting" the brushes, and a little tap here and a little bang there, can, on some motors give you an extra thousand or two rpms. Is that worthwhile??? To some yes, and to others no. For me, my moneys on the guy with the faster motor, if the other factors are reasonably equal.
I never quite understood how can the resulting differences be as much as those claimed in some posts there. To me it means the construction of the silvercan is rickety at best and QA QC non existent. If real engines would show the same variability we'd sue the bejesus out of car manufacturers. This is one reason not to use the silvercan as a control motor.
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:24 PM   #17454
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Originally Posted by niznai View Post
I never quite understood how can the resulting differences be as much as those claimed in some posts there. To me it means the construction of the silvercan is rickety at best and QA QC non existent. If real engines would show the same variability we'd sue the bejesus out of car manufacturers. This is one reason not to use the silvercan as a control motor.
The beloved Johnson/Mabuchi silver cans, as we know them, have been in production for over 50 years and are based on technology developed over 100 years ago, but that's not the real issue. Our car engines are based on old tech as well.

The real issue is that they're not built to very tight tolerances, but rather to a range of tolerance. The motors vary based on materials availability, whether machines making them were calibrated recently and/or properly and, most importantly, they're built to a cost. Ninety-nine percent of the silver cans out there don't go into RC cars that need tight specs to keep racing interesting. They go into blow dryers and cheap vacuum cleaners where a difference of a few thousand RPM doesn't mean much.

As for the cost issue, when you're buying 100,000 motors at a time and you want to keep the cost under a dollar per unit, your tolerances loosen up a little.

Jim
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:24 AM   #17455
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Without going through the entire thread, is there a good setup for a M05 on carpet?
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:50 AM   #17456
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No need to go through the entire thread. Look up about 5 posts.
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:58 AM   #17457
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Guess I hit the scroll wheel one too many times and skipped about 4 posts there! Thanks
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:04 AM   #17458
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Without going through the entire thread, is there a good setup for a M05 on carpet?
This setup is where I was at the end of last season.

I've had some problems with the diff setting since then, so if you are running a 3Racing gear diff I now recommend breaking it in as much as possible before putting it in the car. I've chosen #100k oil for a broken-in diff. Or, use a Tamiya TA03 diff.
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Old 09-01-2012, 12:54 AM   #17459
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For the first time since 2008, my mini has all new bearings in it. I'd forgotten it could be quiet(ish) as well as fast.

The old bearings were a mish-mash of stuff dating anywhere from 4 to 10 years old and still spun very fast, but hey, if my mini isn't worth spending $14 on, then I don't know what is.
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Old 09-01-2012, 03:03 PM   #17460
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2hundy,

"I've just picked up a 13t 35a ezrun system for my m05. What do you all recommend as a starting point on the following settings?"

Punch Max
Brake force 100
Drag brake zero
Timing MAx
Initial brake zero or ten


The drag brake and initial brake I run low and use max timing and punch. Try it and see what suits your driving style.

Later,

Calvin
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