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Old 07-16-2012, 12:36 PM   #17296
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
You adjust for this by lifting one end of the car and adjusting the shock collars on the other end of the car till the tires lift at the same time.
So...if I lift up on the right rear tire, the right front should come up with it, or is it right rear -> left rear comes up?

It seems that you have a little mismatch in the spring rate to the shock oil viscosity.[/QUOTE]

Oops, bit of a typo there. I'm running 55wt in this one. I've actually gone as low as 15wt with blue springs without too much ill effect. Really surprising.

The cornering is absolutely golden right up to that last 5%. I need to get the control back into it at that point. The acceleration out of corners may have to be handled separately. We're running an oval this week, so the spool's going into the car. That should pretty much nullify any pleasant qualities the car normally displays.
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:53 PM   #17297
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post

Here's another could be wrong tho. It seems that you have a little mismatch in the spring rate to the shock oil viscosity. Too light an oil for the spring rate can cause rear end hop. Couple of other things might help like a rear roll bar and a little firmer insert in the rear tires. These are probably more significant than a mismatched oil and spring rate.
I know its very much down to personal circumstances, but any guidence avaliable here. I run a mwb m03 and when i put mini trf shocks on it the rear end started hopping in the bends. I run pre mounted sweep wheels and tyres on carpet, it was 33's up front and 25's on the rear but had to go to 33's on the rear as well to get it vagly under control.
Blue and yellow springs with 350 oil all round
Just a starting point would be useful
Thanks
Mark

Last edited by markrobinson; 07-16-2012 at 12:55 PM. Reason: speeling!
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Old 07-16-2012, 12:57 PM   #17298
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Tamiya short pink springs in front, front sway bar, makes the front squat while making it turn well in tight corners. Inner wheel does have more traction while turning. Stiffer springs in the rear help make the car less twitchy, by make it more stable. Tamiya 1.5 uprights help a ton also. I have a balance between no twitch at high speed, tight turning handling.
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Old 07-16-2012, 01:52 PM   #17299
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
So...if I lift up on the right rear tire, the right front should come up with it, or is it right rear -> left rear comes up?

It seems that you have a little mismatch in the spring rate to the shock oil viscosity.
Old timer stuff, but here's the procedure. Install the battery and set the ride heights first. Lift one end of the car at the mid point of the chassis. If the right side comes off the surface first, adjust the collar down on the left side or up on the right side or a combination of the two adjustments so as not to alter the ride height. It should go without saying to do the opposite if the left tire comes up first. Then turn the car around and repeat the process.

BE SURE your shocks will SMOOTHLY fully extend or you can get false reading.

There are better ways to do this, but I'm not into buying extra equipment. Some of the guys I race with, use a scale on each wheel. Another uses a "tweak" station. My money is spent on tires.

Last edited by Granpa; 07-16-2012 at 01:54 PM. Reason: deletion
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:12 PM   #17300
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My money is spent on tires.
Me too, you can say that again lol
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:23 PM   #17301
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
My money is spent on tires.
Me too, you can say that again lol
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Old 07-16-2012, 02:39 PM   #17302
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There is some truth regarding different spring rates within the same color springs, and I needed to somewhat match the feel on both sides of my m03.... As for rear wheel hop, I got rid of it running losi lcd drives up front, although I had to do alot of grinding... The esc drives should be easier to fit, and I don't worry about tamiya rules !!! They will come around eventually....
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Old 07-16-2012, 04:06 PM   #17303
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Tamiya springs have pretty good matched spring rates, you can squeeze them and "feel" them.

Edit: does anyone know where to get the 3racing gear diff?
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Old 07-16-2012, 06:04 PM   #17304
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I tried the new SpecR oil gear diff for the MO5 on the weekend with 300 000 wt oil and found this to be as good as the 3Racing oil gear diff. The SpecR comes standard with hardened outdrives and no blades. I think this diff will be staying in my car.I have this fitted to my MO5S car. I decided to use my MO5L for the event below as I know the car is very consistant and easy to drive. My MO5S is still be developed but was very stable in practice, but I decided to stick with the known car.

On the weekend I ran in the ACT Indoor Carpet Titles and had agreat result. I TQ'd and won the finals using the same car setup as I use on asphelt. The only change I made to the car was ride height and tyres. I used small diameter tyres and carried really good corner speed. My car would slide in the rear just the right amount to be fast on the really tight sections of the track. Car weighted 1340 gms and was in MO5L configuration.

For springs I ran short TRF white up front and short TRF red rear. 35 wt oil front and rear, three hole piston front and rear and no swaybars. I run a lot of front toe out on the car using a 1mm or 0.5 mm sppacer on the linkage to the front knuckle. I use all of the Tamiya hopup steering system on my MO5L. Rear hubs 1.5 degree and approx 3 degrees rear camber. My car did not traction roll at all at this event.

Hope that helps someone. Will post pictures later, when I next access my computer. I had a 3Racing oil gear diff fitted with 300 000 wt oil.

Later,

50 Cal
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Old 07-16-2012, 08:58 PM   #17305
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Jim use the back of an Exacto knife to lift the car when you check for tweak. An easy way to see which of the 2 back wheels lifts off first is to place a loonie on top of each back tire and the coin that falls off first is the one lifting off the surface first.

If you run other classes a tweak station can be used for all your cars.
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:00 PM   #17306
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Happy belated birthday 50 Cal.
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Old 07-16-2012, 09:02 PM   #17307
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At my local track people are racing the ABC cars. I however would like to get a tamiya M05 since the class is mini-FF. However I have heard that the M03's gearing cannot match the gearing of the Grid mini's unless I buy aftermarket gears?

is this true and can someone please point me in the right direction to do more research?
Thanks
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:35 PM   #17308
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At my local track people are racing the ABC cars. I however would like to get a tamiya M05 since the class is mini-FF. However I have heard that the M03's gearing cannot match the gearing of the Grid mini's unless I buy aftermarket gears?

is this true and can someone please point me in the right direction to do more research?
Thanks
Tamiya mini cars have fixed gearing. The only thing you can change is the pinion, but even that only allows about three ratios be achieved. and yes, you can not match the ABC cars on that alone.

Aftermarket gears that allow different ratios are available, but not TCS legal.

If you are allowed whatever car and want a FF at any cost, try to get an old Kyosho FF Peugeot 205 or Honda CRX. These are the best mini FF chassis I have ever seen. They are basically a FF pan car with amazing front end grip and brilliant handling. Needless to say, they are as easy to find as hens' teeth and completely TCS illegal. Your club might allow you to run one before they find out you're going to absolutely stomp everything else.
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Old 07-16-2012, 10:58 PM   #17309
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Thanks for the advice, guys. I've never really understood how that procedure works before. I'm pretty sure my springs are very close in rate and certain about their length. (I got a bad set once. I check!) My chassis is probably a little tweaked and gets re-tweaked every time I smack into the boards. It still turns well both directions, in any case.

Bert, I applaud your continued enthusiasm with regard to the ECS drive axles. Do you own stock in the company? (j/k!) I won't be buying any until I've burned through the three sets of 3 Racing CVDs I'm using. I may have destroyed a set recently, due to over zealous use of a power tool when installing some tires. They're not likely the problem, anyway. This is a driving the car at 9/10ths suspension issue. I suspect my rear bearings or uprights may have too much play. This poor little car has seen a lot of action.

None of this matters right now, because this weekend is OVAL MINI MADNESS at Karz. There will be blood!

Thanks again!
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Old 07-17-2012, 02:35 AM   #17310
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Profoxcg,

The MO5 can be fitted with the Ride/3Racing speed gear set and you then fit a 24 tooth pinion to the motor. This will give a roll out/FDR very close to the maximum of the ABC Grid. The ABC Grid, however will still be a little faster.

This setup is used in Thailand at the TITC event which is held yearly. The speed gear set MO5 cars use a Speedpassion Citrix ESC and 17.5 fixed time motor or the Hobbywing system which is the same. The weight limit for the car is 1200 gms with cutting and shutting allowed.

I would also look at modifying the MO5 so it will handle better. I am not sure what your rules are, however if ABC Grids are being used then TCS rules will not apply.

I myself would most likely just purchase a ABC Grid and go out and have fun. I ran the ABC Grid earlier this year at TITC and had a ball. The car was very good and I managed to qualify fifth in the B. I am by no means a gun driver, but learnt alot from my experience.

Anyway the decision is yours to make. I will advise though, the 3Racing/Ride speed gear set need to be run inas they have a small binding point. The other option if you can find them is the speed gear from ABR.

Anyway have fun.

Regards,

Calvin.
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