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Old 06-11-2012, 12:01 PM   #17191
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Can I play too?
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:53 PM   #17192
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Anyone have a good M03 set up for TCS rules? I'll be on a slightly bumpy indoor asphalt track. Thanks!
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Old 06-12-2012, 06:43 PM   #17193
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All of this discussion on titanium screws is really a part of a larger topic which is what upgrades do you recommend ????? This has been asked a multitude of times. My philosophy and pocket book says as few as possible. They all fit in the following categories:

1. Increase the durability bearings, aluminum steering uprights, etc.

2. Make the car easier to work on TRF shocks, adjustable turnbuckles

3. Make the car go faster When you really think about it there are few if any upgrades that actually make the car go faster. We are not talking about motors here cause obviously a faster motor will make the car go faster.

When evaluating an upgrade or mod, it has to be justified by one of the above 3 ???? Let's take the titanium screw for example. Durability increase---probably not. Makes the car easier to work on---probably not. Makes the car faster-----you're kidding me. Verdict-----not worthwhile. Except where a tenth of a tenth difference in lap times is important. And that's damn near never.

One of the fastest Minis at our track is an M03 with the following upgrades-----ball bearings, TRF shocks, rear roll bar. That's it folks. A few spacers here and there and adjustable rear camber link made from 5mm short couplers and a 3x12 set screw. Sort of makes you wonder about all these upgrades.
Thank you everyone for the good advice. I think I am just going to keep it simple with only the basic mods noted above and just focus on the driving!
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:14 PM   #17194
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Thank you everyone for the good advice. I think I am just going to keep it simple with only the basic mods noted above and just focus on the driving!
You never mentioned whether your car was an M03 or an 05. If it's an 05, the aluminum steering bits are a good upgrade, even if they are a little "pricey". If it's the M03, using a Kimbrough servo saver is worthwhile.

There are a lot of things you can do to the car to make it handle better, thus making it "faster", without the expenditure of a lot of $$$$$. Most of the really good Minis around here are pretty basic. We do spend a lot of time and effort on the shocks and spring combinations, ride height, camber, toe out etc. This stuff is as important as the driving except for those who are unusually skilled and can adapt their driving to fit the car. Most, like me, have to adjust the car to fit their driving "style".

My lack of driving skills is almost legendary around here, but I'm able to keep up with all but a few and still beat most. The difference is that my cars are just "tuned" to how I drive. Once you get the car to help you instead of the other way around, you'll understand.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:25 PM   #17195
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Very well said Granpa - sounds like an RC Koan.

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The difference is that my cars are just "tuned" to how I drive. Once you get the car to help you instead of the other way around, you'll understand.
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:51 AM   #17196
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Be OF the car, but not IN the car ...
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Old 06-15-2012, 11:48 PM   #17197
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I need to replace my mid wheel base Fiat Abarth body, cant stand to look at it all beat up. It seems like the popular bodies are the fiat or swift.
Any thoughts on Shun's CRZ body - does it really make a difference???

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Old 06-16-2012, 06:09 AM   #17198
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what kind of chassis or chassis's is this?
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:18 AM   #17199
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"SHUN (#SH001) Honda CR-Z MUGEN body for M05 (225mm)"

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what kind of chassis or chassis's is this?
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:03 AM   #17200
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My ride.. Tamiya Alfa Giulia GTA on M05 Pro
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Old 06-17-2012, 06:50 AM   #17201
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Can I play too?
sorry about that, I'll try this again,...what type of chassis/chassis'es is that?
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:21 AM   #17202
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Hi,

I have a M03, an ebay special that needs quite a bit of TLC, I think it's going to cost me in the region of 60 to make it factory fresh (without hop-ups). I noticed I can pick up an M05 Alfa Mito for 92, before I spend out on the M03 replacing parts and hop ups, would you recommend spending the extra on the M05? I could always sell the M03 rolling chassis back on ebay.
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Old 06-17-2012, 01:59 PM   #17203
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Hi,

I have a M03, an ebay special that needs quite a bit of TLC, I think it's going to cost me in the region of 60 to make it factory fresh (without hop-ups). I noticed I can pick up an M05 Alfa Mito for 92, before I spend out on the M03 replacing parts and hop ups, would you recommend spending the extra on the M05? I could always sell the M03 rolling chassis back on ebay.
Just out of curiosity, what do you mean by "factory" fresh. You could build a rolling chassis, not counting tires and wheels, with brand new almost everything for that amount. That's here in the USA, but the pricing may be much different in the UK.

Many people new to Minis are absolutely horrified by all the "slop" in a Mini. They will spend a lot of time and effort "shimming" and other tolerance tightening tricks only to find that none of this helps in most cases. That "looseness" is perfectly normal and will not affect the performance in any way.

If it were my car, this would be the program. Buy a "C" parts tree, replace any broken or bent parts, install electronics, new tires and wheels, go have fun. The M03 is a better car than the M05 in most situations.
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:21 PM   #17204
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Can I play too?
Very nice. What chassis is that.
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Old 06-17-2012, 02:26 PM   #17205
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Granpa- thanks for the response.

The car is pretty badly battered so I've got a new chassis, 2x C parts and 2x b screw bag on order. I also noticed one diff bevel gear is slightly damaged on a few teeth and the gear shafts are worn. So factory fresh to me is replace damaged / worn parts, which will pretty much leave me with a new rollling chassis. I'll keep the old parts as spares. The shocks are being replaced with mini cva's and the drive shafts swapped for UJs.

Can I ask what is recommended for lubing the diff and gears/bearings/axles?
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