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Old 05-29-2012, 11:05 AM   #17116
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Ok my mini is realy getting under my skin. It has always been a bit slow compaired to some others. I know not all silvercans are equal. My buddys is fast, he can run anybody down on the straight, and he is only got an 18t pinion.
After seeing how well his handled and the speed I realy started to compair setups, well mine was way off. Besides that there is a lot of tention or binding in my drivetrain. My buddys fronts spin rather freely, they will make quite a few revolutions after you spin them
Mine is tight. you got to put some force into getting the fronts to move. the motor spins when I do this so I think its not the diff that is slipping, that feels tight. when I pull the motor the drivetrain is free and spins nice and smooth. the motor is not rubbing, and the mesh is not to tight cause putting th motor is loosely it get tight when you try to spin.
Now this is a ball diff, and I think it is a 3Racing, paper work .that I got with the car used showed like it was a tamiya, but the diff gear is light blue.

But with the motor out and my finger holding the gears i can create the same tention and it feels like the diff is slipping, or the diff is slipping to let the wheels spin. i have loosend it and tigtended the dff and no change, I can not get the same feel as the other cars
maybe I should get a gear diff?
I am not sure what direction to go, for as long as I have been doing this hobby you think setting up a ball diff and drivetrain would be a no brainer. But I just dont know the "feel" or how to get to the "feel" i want.

help me out here please, shoot me some questions and I will give you the answers. got to get this car going
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:36 AM   #17117
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As far as the motor turning hard, could your mounting bolts be too long?

I bought two used M03s recently. Both have gear diffs, but the diff on one was tight and one was loose. I found that the tighter diff drove better. That car had a little bit of push, but the rear end followed the front around no problem. The car with the loose diff would turn extremely tight, but the rear end would whip around terribly. I ended up adding a couple more shims to the loose diff, tested it on the track yesterday and it performs very well now.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:57 AM   #17118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deja Vu View Post
As far as the motor turning hard, could your mounting bolts be too long?

I bought two used M03s recently. Both have gear diffs, but the diff on one was tight and one was loose. I found that the tighter diff drove better. That car had a little bit of push, but the rear end followed the front around no problem. The car with the loose diff would turn extremely tight, but the rear end would whip around terribly. I ended up adding a couple more shims to the loose diff, tested it on the track yesterday and it performs very well now.
Loose diff is the problem, that is the driving issue I feel, steering is very sensitive and rear whips
I dont think it is a tight motor, put in a sport tuned and it feels the same, even when just in there loose and catching the mesh.

now any light touch of my finger on the internal gears they will stop and the diff starts slipping....thus you feel the drag of the diff. if I slide a motor in i can get the motor to spin but it takes a few revolutions before it grabs the motor and the tention never goes away so I am thinking that the diff is still some what slipping as it is turing the motor....got to re do my diff.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:00 PM   #17119
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The 3Racing ball diff is not very good. Better off with a Tamiya diff or the 3Racing gear diff.

If the previous owner put in a 3Racing diff, they may have put in the 3Racing speed tuned gears. These are white rather than the cream colour of the standard Tamiya gears. Since they are larger, you need to use different holes for the motor, and that might be why you have a tight transmission. Also check that the pinion is a 0.6 mod one.

As ever, with Tamiya stuff, kit parts work. Go back to them.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:52 PM   #17120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
The 3Racing ball diff is not very good. Better off with a Tamiya diff or the 3Racing gear diff.

If the previous owner put in a 3Racing diff, they may have put in the 3Racing speed tuned gears. These are white rather than the cream colour of the standard Tamiya gears. Since they are larger, you need to use different holes for the motor, and that might be why you have a tight transmission. Also check that the pinion is a 0.6 mod one.

As ever, with Tamiya stuff, kit parts work. Go back to them.
the gears are the black hard ones or tough ones. the gears mesh fine and spin nice and free till there is any load put on them....then the diff slips giving it that tight feel. Rebuild or replace the diff,

what about a spool?
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:02 PM   #17121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatsNorway View Post
Guys at RC-mini.net

Was the Open class only 2WD?

So there is:

M-chassis class
2WD open
4WD

In the Open class:

any M06 cars there?

what was the rules? No weight limit? Motor limit?

Imagining a M-06 with a Team Powers mini motor 8,5T and 140grams. shorty pack or smaller and tiny everything.
Correct Mats. Open class is 2WD only. FWD or RWD.

No weight limit, no body limit, but ALL cars in every class run our standard 13T Hobbywing Combo.

There were no M06's this year, and I think only one last year from memory.
They are VERY unpopular here, on our low-grip outdoor tracks they pretty much get killed by the FWD's
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:55 PM   #17122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
the gears are the black hard ones or tough ones. the gears mesh fine and spin nice and free till there is any load put on them....then the diff slips giving it that tight feel. Rebuild or replace the diff,

what about a spool?
Replace your diff with a TA03 ball diff or with the stock gear diff. Try that first, then if you decide on the gear diff there are all sorts of different ways to build a gear diff. These seem to range from using 10 million extra shims and or packing them with buffalo snot. IMO the most consistent is the TA03 ball diff built per the instructions.

You did not mention tires, but 80% of how your M03 works, revolves around tires and how you "scrub" them in. Probably easiest to start with the S grips with the hard Tamiya sponge insert. With a new set all around, run one battery, then rotate the fronts to the rears and leave them there. Don't rotate them again or you will ruin that set of tires. When the fronts wear out, replace them with the new set and leave the rears where they are. The rears will work around 2 sets of fronts.
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:34 PM   #17123
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What are you guys using for a servo saver? The factory one didn't seem to fit properly on my airtronics servo so I went to a solid one. I switched to a blue aluminum 3racing rod between the steering bellcranks and servo saver because it was a tad longer and let me center my servo arm w/ the bellcranks centered. When I hit my first wall it bent the rod between the aluminum steering bellcranks and the servo arm. It seems every time I hit a wall (or even look at a board wrong) w/ this thing the steering goes all goofy. Aside from that this thing is fun. The 3racing gear diff I put in made a world of difference though.

Thanks
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:45 PM   #17124
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
What are you guys using for a servo saver? The factory one didn't seem to fit properly on my airtronics servo so I went to a solid one. When I hit my first wall it bent the rod between the aluminum steering bellcranks and the servo arm. It seems every time I hit a wall (or even look at a board wrong) w/ this thing the steering goes all goofy. Aside from that this thing is fun. The 3racing gear diff I put in made a world of difference though.

Thanks
Dave
Now this I can help with

The first time on the track, my daughter's stock servo saver broke mid-turn, first lap. She didn't hit anything, it simply broke when turning. I ran upstairs and bought the Tamiya plastic "Hop Up" version. My car had the same one but in blue aluminum. Both "savers" tightened up enough to rub against the servo housing. I took them back out and added a small washer inside to space them out a bit. We still couldn't get either car to return to center after making a turn. I finally noticed a bit of give in both styles. With a bit of pressure, you could make the front of the saver "pop" left or right just a tiny bit. Once it moved over, it stayed on its own. But, you could then pop it the other direction and then it would stay on that side.

I finally ran back up and bought a couple of standard, inexpensive Kimbrough servo savers and haven't looked back since. It was an instant cure for both cars.

Hope this helps!

Good luck
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:48 PM   #17125
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Perfecto!! Thank you sir.

Ugh, just looked and they have 10 different servo savers!! Do you recall if it was a midsized, large, etc?

Thanks
Dave
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:53 PM   #17126
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I still had the package

#201, Mid Size.

Good luck to you!
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:55 PM   #17127
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Thank much. Did you use the center predrilled hole or the one closest to the front of the vehicle? Also, do you have your servo saver perpendicular to the chassis or slightly angled? it seemed if I had the linkage at the length the manual recommended the servo arm had to be angled which didn't seem right to me.

Dave
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:02 PM   #17128
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Hmm, is your's a M-03? Maybe I assumed.

I used the two outer left and right holes with my M-03. If you have a different model, the servo saver will still work well, but you will had to install it correctly for your model of course.

Anytime I install a new servo/servo saver, I sort of skip the manual. I set my radio to all "0" settings (including DR) and turn everything on. This way, I know the servo is at dead center. I then install the saver as close to perpendicular as I can possibly get it. Sometimes, the splines won't allow perfect 90 degrees, but I get it as close as I can. I then make all initial bench adjustments with the steering links. I then set the radio endpoints so there is no binding. Once I get to the track, I fine tune trim, DR, etc.

For what its worth, I am running Kimbrough savers in my Xray Touring car and my T4.1 Stadium truck. I've never had any problems with them
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:17 PM   #17129
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i actually have an M05.

Dave
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:27 PM   #17130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Robinson Racing makes a line of pinions in the Tamiya/0.6 mod/48p "metric" pitch. Part numbers are easy to figure out. EG: 20 tooth would be 1120. 18 tooth is 1118. They're stronger than the Tamiya part and cheaper, too.

Now, the first person to mention "There's no such thing as 48p metric!" is going suffer from premature baldness AND get a kick in the junk. I know there's no such thing officially, but it's a commonly used term, so suck it up.
I can mention that I found that information useless and frustrating. After ordering the Robinson Racing Products 48P 16T and 18T "Absolute" hardened steel pinions I can post that THEY DO NOT WORK on the minicooper. You need 0.6 mod pinions. I sent the Robinson Racing pinions back and got the Tamiya pinion.
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