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Old 05-21-2012, 01:43 PM   #17071
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Type A slicks are stickier than B. try running an S grip radial on the rear with type A slick up front. Seems to be a magic combo.
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Old 05-21-2012, 11:45 PM   #17072
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Myself and friend are thinking about ralling other racers in our area to start racing Mini's. I have a few questions on what makes this class successful in other areas in the US or world.

What kit is the best to buy (M-05, M-06)?
Are most people running silver can or 17.5 brushless?
Are most people running pro kit's?
Is it best to keep the class limited to the lower cost kits and only allow oil filled shocks as a hop-up?

Any other suggestions are welcomed.
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Old 05-22-2012, 12:20 AM   #17073
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Type A slicks are stickier than B. try running an S grip radial on the rear with type A slick up front. Seems to be a magic combo.
Thanks monkeyracing, I'll try it next time out. Do you know how the std slicks and super slicks compare to the a's and b's?

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Old 05-22-2012, 02:01 AM   #17074
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Thanks monkeyracing, I'll try it next time out. Do you know how the std slicks and super slicks compare to the a's and b's?

Paul
Hi, Standard slicks are good for...well...nothing really. The Super Slicks are fairly sticky, but smaller (55mm). You'll lose a chunk of top speed with them.

If your only choice is Tamiya, then the S Grip Radials, M Grip Radials and Type A Slicks really are the best choices over all. Type B slicks are alright, if you're looking for a little less grip.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:50 AM   #17075
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Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
Myself and friend are thinking about ralling other racers in our area to start racing Mini's. I have a few questions on what makes this class successful in other areas in the US or world.

What kit is the best to buy (M-05, M-06)?
Are most people running silver can or 17.5 brushless?
Are most people running pro kit's?
Is it best to keep the class limited to the lower cost kits and only allow oil filled shocks as a hop-up?

Any other suggestions are welcomed.
I have seen lots of versions of the class work, from very restricted "box stock" classes to very open classes.

Two things are key to any cars performance - the motor and the tyres.

Unlabelled silvercan racing is far too open to cheating. I would avoid running an unlabelled motor for that reason. Labelled sealed cans work though, we have been running the HPI Saturn 20 as a control motor for a few series in the UK on a handout basis and there have been no problems at all with power or unsportsmanlike tweaking.

Brushless makes sense, mainly because people have a prejudice against brushed now, and good brushed speedos are hard to find new. It is additional cost though, especially when you consider that Tamiya include a decent brushed ESC in the kits already. Hobbywing 13T Ezrun combo seems popular, something like a 17.5 blinky would be a good speed, but then you run into all the mumbo jumbo with finding the fastest motor. If I was starting a class from nothing, I would spec a motor/esc combo with good availability.

We have had good success with the Sweep pre-mounts as a control tyre, indoors and out - there are three compounds to choose from so you can get the car dialled in. Some tracks may specify Tamiya treaded tyres only (for example), some may be completely open. Open tyre rule does cause a slight issue with rollout, the cars with 60D tyres are faster on the straights using the kit gearing.

I would also keep the class Tamiya-only, and possibly exclude the rear-drive cars. It keeps the performance more even on the track - the ABC/HPI/TOP cars are all quite a bit faster than a Tamiya, and the M-06 drives "differently" which can cause some unexpected collisions.

My view is that you may as well leave hop-ups open, because the cars need some hop-ups to run well, and most people like to personalise their cars. But some tracks are strict on box-stock parts and have successful classes, although I suspect that knowing a few setup "tricks" becomes even more important in those classes!

They are a great class, and with some well thought out rules offer cheap, close and fun racing.
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:38 AM   #17076
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Brushless makes sense, mainly because people have a prejudice against brushed now.

Are you saying people have a prejudice against their VCR too? More like they've moved on to something that works better and is easier to use.
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Old 05-22-2012, 06:43 AM   #17077
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Hi, Standard slicks are good for...well...nothing really. The Super Slicks are fairly sticky, but smaller (55mm). You'll lose a chunk of top speed with them.

If your only choice is Tamiya, then the S Grip Radials, M Grip Radials and Type A Slicks really are the best choices over all. Type B slicks are alright, if you're looking for a little less grip.
What are othe good alternatives then? Tried the pit shimizu 60d tyres and not very impressed with the consistency. I run mostly on carpet
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:45 AM   #17078
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Are you saying people have a prejudice against their VCR too? More like they've moved on to something that works better and is easier to use.
I don't believe that's it. It's more of a problem of economics. Any time you try to get a new Mini series started, it's easier to get it up and running if you utilize the motors that most are using at the time. In most cases in the USA it's the Silvercan. Since it seems that he's talking about Colorado, USA, the situation there is different than where you are from.

The brushless system that's used in Australian Mini racing is not a viable option for a new series here as that system is not widely distributed here. None of the major outlets stock them and most LHS don't know what it is or where they can order them. I have one, but had to order it from Hong Kong, which is a hassle.

Neither is it a question of which is better, BL or brushed. In the USA, even the most economical and widely available 17.5 motor and esc will run in the neigborhood of $200. A little tough to get a series started if everyone has to plunk down an extra 2 bills.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:57 AM   #17079
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
I have seen lots of versions of the class work, from very restricted "box stock" classes to very open classes.

Two things are key to any cars performance - the motor and the tyres.

Unlabelled silvercan racing is far too open to cheating. I would avoid running an unlabelled motor for that reason. Labelled sealed cans work though, we have been running the HPI Saturn 20 as a control motor for a few series in the UK on a handout basis and there have been no problems at all with power or unsportsmanlike tweaking.

Brushless makes sense, mainly because people have a prejudice against brushed now, and good brushed speedos are hard to find new. It is additional cost though, especially when you consider that Tamiya include a decent brushed ESC in the kits already. Hobbywing 13T Ezrun combo seems popular, something like a 17.5 blinky would be a good speed, but then you run into all the mumbo jumbo with finding the fastest motor. If I was starting a class from nothing, I would spec a motor/esc combo with good availability.

We have had good success with the Sweep pre-mounts as a control tyre, indoors and out - there are three compounds to choose from so you can get the car dialled in. Some tracks may specify Tamiya treaded tyres only (for example), some may be completely open. Open tyre rule does cause a slight issue with rollout, the cars with 60D tyres are faster on the straights using the kit gearing.

I would also keep the class Tamiya-only, and possibly exclude the rear-drive cars. It keeps the performance more even on the track - the ABC/HPI/TOP cars are all quite a bit faster than a Tamiya, and the M-06 drives "differently" which can cause some unexpected collisions.

My view is that you may as well leave hop-ups open, because the cars need some hop-ups to run well, and most people like to personalise their cars. But some tracks are strict on box-stock parts and have successful classes, although I suspect that knowing a few setup "tricks" becomes even more important in those classes!

They are a great class, and with some well thought out rules offer cheap, close and fun racing.
You're pretty much spot on. If you are using hand out motors, it really doesn't matter which motor you use. Control tires are a good idea and the Sweeps are a good choice. I do think that staying with the Tamiya ones would be a better idea, but that's cause of availability again.
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Old 05-22-2012, 03:44 PM   #17080
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I've finally cracked on of the great mysteries of the M-03 and M-04! The question was "What the hell are all those extra holes for?" (commence teenage giggling now) In searching around, I've never found a manual covering any of this stuff.

I'd always wondered why the on/off switch mount for the M-03 was so huge and overdone and why there are extra, unused mounting points on the back half of the chassis. Today, I found pictures of an M-03 with a 3 step mechanical speed control installed. The large rectangular gap on the left rear was for the capacitor and a servo was fitted inside the rear of the chassis using the two extra holes on the right rear to attach servo mounts.

On the M-04, I'd always wondered what the little tray that mounted on the left front chassis was for. The best guess I'd have now is for mounting either the servo or the capacitor for the MSC.

If any of you guys have pictures or manuals illustrating any of this, please let me know. I'd love to see how it all went together.




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Old 05-22-2012, 03:58 PM   #17081
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Default Tamiya Mini M05

Hey guys I just bought a Mini M05, I am planning to replaced the shocks with
the 3 Racing brand. Anybody have a tips for this 3 Racing shocks quality?
Is it leaking or not, that is may concern for the quality.
And what else I need to changes beside shocks, tires?
I also need a radio+Rx for the mini.
Thank you.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:54 PM   #17082
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Originally Posted by CW22 View Post
Hey guys I just bought a Mini M05, I am planning to replaced the shocks with
the 3 Racing brand. Anybody have a tips for this 3 Racing shocks quality?
Is it leaking or not, that is may concern for the quality.
And what else I need to changes beside shocks, tires?
I also need a radio+Rx for the mini.
Thank you.
The Tamiya TRF ones are a better option for most of us in the US. Parts for rebuilding them are easier to find. And it's a high quality product that will outlast several Minis.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:06 PM   #17083
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Default 3 Racing shocks for Mini M05

Thanks Grandpa, I'm sure the TRF is better. That's what I use on my TA05 car, however the price is double compare to the 3 Racing brand and on the Mini car it seems like the shocks is very short. How about the original oil damper shocks from my TA05 (black plastic) does it work on the Mini? or is to long maybe.
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Old 05-23-2012, 06:46 AM   #17084
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Honestly I've got the 3racing shocks on mine and thus far they are fine. They seem to be conventional oring sealed but I've yet to measure the orings. Mine haven't leaked yet and have no air in them yet as far as I can tell. They bled much easier and consistently than many other shocks I've used in the past. I wouldn't hesitate to buy these again.


Dave
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Old 05-23-2012, 08:57 AM   #17085
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Default 3 Racing shocks for Mini

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Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
Honestly I've got the 3racing shocks on mine and thus far they are fine. They seem to be conventional oring sealed but I've yet to measure the orings. Mine haven't leaked yet and have no air in them yet as far as I can tell. They bled much easier and consistently than many other shocks I've used in the past. I wouldn't hesitate to buy these again.


Dave
Thank you Dave for your tips, I guess nothing wrong to try.
Have you use the original spring that come with the 3 Racing? Or you replace with the tamiya?
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