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Old 05-12-2012, 07:58 AM   #17041
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It is as you said - flipped arms, not lower suspension holder. If you look at the first pic, you can see the lower block is still in the SWB position. The Silver/Blue has the lower supension holder in the LWB position with the arms in SWB position (the shocks were spaced out at the bottom to get them to sit vertical) - I included that in the pics for comparison.
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:37 AM   #17042
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Originally Posted by alphaqgti View Post
It is as you said - flipped arms, not lower suspension holder. If you look at the first pic, you can see the lower block is still in the SWB position. The Silver/Blue has the lower supension holder in the LWB position with the arms in SWB position (the shocks were spaced out at the bottom to get them to sit vertical) - I included that in the pics for comparison.

oh, cool, thanks, i see now. I missed the explanation text and was looking at the wrong pic. You've got a single long screw through a ball that replaces the screw the holds the arm together.
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Old 05-12-2012, 04:30 PM   #17043
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This question is a little off in left field but i'm sure you guys can help. I noticed that my tc5 springs seem to fit these 3 racing shocks I've got and I have done a bit of research on spring rates and some non scientific testing w/ my hands and am trying to see if anyone really knows a correlation between the two? From the spring charts I've seen the TC5 green is close to the tamiya red despite it not really feeling close when compressing in my hand. I did notice that the AE silver is similar to Tamiya yellow. My question is, does anyone use AE TC shocks on their minis? If I have to buy new springs I will but I'd rather not if what I have will do the job. As of now I have the 3 racing springs in now which seem similar to the Tamiya yellow If I remember correctly.


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Old 05-12-2012, 07:34 PM   #17044
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Which parts tree has the arm assemblies? C-parts?
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:53 PM   #17045
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Which parts tree has the arm assemblies? C-parts?
RC M05 C Parts - Suspension Arm
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Tamiya mini cooper-m05-c-parts.jpg  
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:03 PM   #17046
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Anyone interested in a great servo for mini cooper Futaba S9602 like new

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Old 05-13-2012, 11:51 PM   #17047
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First off, I am a complete noob to the Mini class, so much so that I have not placed my order for one so please forgive this hopefully very simple question. I am ordering a M05-S limited and want to add some of the Tamiya 53597 universals to it. I have read about slotting the out-drives and adding blades for wear purposes. What blades are being used for this? About the only bit that my searching has found is a post by Granpa back in 2010.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8161210-post13397.html

I am planning on adding the TA03 Ball Diff as well. Guess while I am at it I should ask if these are still viable or are there better ways to go? My local racing will be parking lot treated with old soda for traction and pretty open rules but I do plan on doing some of the TCS events so want to stick with what is allowed under their rules.

Thanks in advance!

Jason
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:50 AM   #17048
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzFittin View Post
First off, I am a complete noob to the Mini class, so much so that I have not placed my order for one so please forgive this hopefully very simple question. I am ordering a M05-S limited and want to add some of the Tamiya 53597 universals to it. I have read about slotting the out-drives and adding blades for wear purposes. What blades are being used for this? About the only bit that my searching has found is a post by Granpa back in 2010.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/8161210-post13397.html

I am planning on adding the TA03 Ball Diff as well. Guess while I am at it I should ask if these are still viable or are there better ways to go? My local racing will be parking lot treated with old soda for traction and pretty open rules but I do plan on doing some of the TCS events so want to stick with what is allowed under their rules.

Thanks in advance!

Jason
Use the Tamiya ones #53890. They are the best cause they are the smallest. This mod is a bit of a pain to do, but well worth it. Craig Richter, our resident Mini guru, was the first I know to do this. I'm assuming the #53597 universals you mention are the rebuildable cvds. I use the #53205 universals since IMO they are smoother. I only mention this cause the I believe the 53597 are a mm or so longer and don't really need a o-ring in the outdrive to keep it from sliding out. Not so important in a gear diff cause it's outdrives have a much longer spline than the ball diff ones.

Check out the new universals from R1 Wurks. They hit the hobby shops a few weeks ago and are beautiful units. They are also quite a bit less expensive than the Tamiya ones. These are not TCS legal, but it's a 10 minute job to switch to the Tamiya ones for a TCS race. They will last longer, are smoother, and cheaper. They dimensionally the same as the Tamiya units. Speedtech and TQ RC racing stock them. While you are there get the R1 Wurks ceramic diff balls and throw the stock TA03 diff balls away. The diff balls are 3mm in diameter.

TA03 ball diffs have a lot of "mystic" surrounding them in how to build the "perfect" ball diff. 99.9% of that stuff is pure BS. The TA03 ball diff is one of the RC worlds easiest things to do. Just use a tiny bit, little dab, small amount of antiwear grease on the diff balls and build it exactly like the instructions. I do a couple of extra things, but that's only to increase the time between rebuilds and I've posted it before. Come to think of it most of the crap about gear diff is just that, pure crap also. The oil filled diffs may be the wave of the future, but have no experience with them so won't comment. Some people whose opinions I respect, swear by them. Too bad they are not TCS legal.

Since you're a noob, check out TG's rc-mini website. Lot's of good advice, a minimal amount of BS, and just a lot of good stuff.

And last, IMO for the type of tracks you will be racing on, the M03 MWB or LWB will be a better choice. The kit you mention has a lot of glitz, but would only have an advantage on a short technical track.

Hope this helps.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:10 PM   #17049
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Nobody has done this?

Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
This question is a little off in left field but i'm sure you guys can help. I noticed that my tc5 springs seem to fit these 3 racing shocks I've got and I have done a bit of research on spring rates and some non scientific testing w/ my hands and am trying to see if anyone really knows a correlation between the two? From the spring charts I've seen the TC5 green is close to the tamiya red despite it not really feeling close when compressing in my hand. I did notice that the AE silver is similar to Tamiya yellow. My question is, does anyone use AE TC shocks on their minis? If I have to buy new springs I will but I'd rather not if what I have will do the job. As of now I have the 3 racing springs in now which seem similar to the Tamiya yellow If I remember correctly.


Thanks
Dave
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:28 PM   #17050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
This question is a little off in left field but i'm sure you guys can help. I noticed that my tc5 springs seem to fit these 3 racing shocks I've got and I have done a bit of research on spring rates and some non scientific testing w/ my hands and am trying to see if anyone really knows a correlation between the two? From the spring charts I've seen the TC5 green is close to the tamiya red despite it not really feeling close when compressing in my hand. I did notice that the AE silver is similar to Tamiya yellow. My question is, does anyone use AE TC shocks on their minis? If I have to buy new springs I will but I'd rather not if what I have will do the job. As of now I have the 3 racing springs in now which seem similar to the Tamiya yellow If I remember correctly.


Thanks
Dave
I've used the old and new version of the AE/Yokomo short shocks with Tamiya short springs on the minis. They will fit but the new ones have longer a shock body. You still need to put in internal spacers to limit droop. If you shorten it too much it will be hard to get the bottom spring cup off to change springs (longer shock body).
I would assume that the AE springs would fit on the AE shocks.

Here is a Universal Spring Chart.pdf (credit goes to Ling Kang Tong). Your fingers are calibrated pretty well looking at the Tamiya short yellow and AE silver springs on this chart.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:34 AM   #17051
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I was going the other way around. Tamiya shocks w/ AE springs. There seems to be less than 1/2" difference in length and the shock shaft is more than long enough to allow adjustment of the collar.

Dave
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:50 AM   #17052
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Use the Tamiya ones #53890. They are the best cause they are the smallest. This mod is a bit of a pain to do, but well worth it. Craig Richter, our resident Mini guru, was the first I know to do this. I'm assuming the #53597 universals you mention are the rebuildable cvds. I use the #53205 universals since IMO they are smoother. I only mention this cause the I believe the 53597 are a mm or so longer and don't really need a o-ring in the outdrive to keep it from sliding out. Not so important in a gear diff cause it's outdrives have a much longer spline than the ball diff ones.

Check out the new universals from R1 Wurks. They hit the hobby shops a few weeks ago and are beautiful units. They are also quite a bit less expensive than the Tamiya ones. These are not TCS legal, but it's a 10 minute job to switch to the Tamiya ones for a TCS race. They will last longer, are smoother, and cheaper. They dimensionally the same as the Tamiya units. Speedtech and TQ RC racing stock them. While you are there get the R1 Wurks ceramic diff balls and throw the stock TA03 diff balls away. The diff balls are 3mm in diameter.

TA03 ball diffs have a lot of "mystic" surrounding them in how to build the "perfect" ball diff. 99.9% of that stuff is pure BS. The TA03 ball diff is one of the RC worlds easiest things to do. Just use a tiny bit, little dab, small amount of antiwear grease on the diff balls and build it exactly like the instructions. I do a couple of extra things, but that's only to increase the time between rebuilds and I've posted it before. Come to think of it most of the crap about gear diff is just that, pure crap also. The oil filled diffs may be the wave of the future, but have no experience with them so won't comment. Some people whose opinions I respect, swear by them. Too bad they are not TCS legal.

Since you're a noob, check out TG's rc-mini website. Lot's of good advice, a minimal amount of BS, and just a lot of good stuff.

And last, IMO for the type of tracks you will be racing on, the M03 MWB or LWB will be a better choice. The kit you mention has a lot of glitz, but would only have an advantage on a short technical track.

Hope this helps.
Thank you a ton for all the info! I will look into the parts. You mention that the M03 MWB or LWB would be better unless it is a small technical track. I have to admit that I am not sure what would be considered small. Most of my experience is with dirt 2 and 4wd as well as carpet oval and touring car. The tracks I have been used to in the past were 60'x80' or larger. The track I will be racing the Mini on locally is probably 50'x70' or less. It is in the process of being built so I cannot speak to how technical it will be but how would you rate that size?

Thanks again.
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Old 05-17-2012, 09:53 AM   #17053
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Originally Posted by AzFittin View Post
Thank you a ton for all the info! I will look into the parts. You mention that the M03 MWB or LWB would be better unless it is a small technical track. I have to admit that I am not sure what would be considered small. Most of my experience is with dirt 2 and 4wd as well as carpet oval and touring car. The tracks I have been used to in the past were 60'x80' or larger. The track I will be racing the Mini on locally is probably 50'x70' or less. It is in the process of being built so I cannot speak to how technical it will be but how would you rate that size?

Thanks again.
Sorry, but when you said parking lot track, I thought you meant a bigger track. On a 50x70 track a SWB should hold it's own. I still have a SWB Mini only because it just looks so good. Would never race it tho. I've only seen one or two SWB cars that were competitive and haven't seen one win in 4-5 years.

All but one of my cars were built from the standard kits and were upgraded with the options I wanted and not what Tamiya thought would be good marketing. I did weaken once and bought the M05 Pro kit which turned out to be a mistake. The shocks it came with have now been replaced with TRF shocks. The aluminum rear hubs are now on one of my M03s. So much for the Pro stuff in that kit.

My cars aren't "purty" but they are fast. It's just too bad the idiot on the wheel isn't as good as the cars.
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Old 05-18-2012, 09:32 AM   #17054
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Aaaww, Grandpa ... but you're OUR "idiot", and that's all that counts!
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:27 PM   #17055
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Aaaww, Grandpa ... but you're OUR "idiot", and that's all that counts!
We're all waiting for you to get back. Finally getting the BL Minis under control and some are just dialed. Mines okay, but Nino's is really good. I also want you to test drive my M05 MWB Swift and get your feedback. Finally got it to carry some corner speed like the M03. AND it's super smooth. It's funny cause it was good at West Coast and was just a few tenths slower than the BL Minis at TQ. Weird cause it was the same set up and the tracks and surfaces are radically different.

Could be we're just overthinkin' this stuff.








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