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Old 04-25-2012, 12:45 PM   #16981
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Has anyone ever figured out what the little tray that attaches to the left side of an M-04 was supposed to be? I've flipped through several M-04 assembly manuals and the part never seems to get used anywhere. At the time they designed them, there weren't any electronics small enough to fit into that thing. Might be a good home for a micro receiver now, though.

Maybe Tamiya's engineers can see through time. (backwards, most of the time. So many re-releases.)
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:39 PM   #16982
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Hi Guys
Bit new to this forum. Been racing my m05 here in the uk for 5 years now. I'm running a blinged s spec. My club has just changed to brush less to m chassis class.
Took my m05 apart last night to fit new 3 racing gear diff.... then realised i was missing 2 rather large bearings needed??? either side of the out drives! why 3 racing don't include this in the kit is beyond me?? anyhow had to build her back up with the original kit diff, re lubed.
I just hope the kit diff holds up with the new torque from the hobbywing 13t brushless combo.
Any tips on running kit diff with brush less system for longevity?
Cheers
Damien.
You'll get you're knuckles wrapped for subtley fitting that oil diff Damien
Smooth on the power with the kit diff and don't hammer it until you are in a straight line is my current advice.
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:54 PM   #16983
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Any tips on running kit diff with brush less system for longevity?
Just read over your club's mini rules. That is some stern stuff! If you're stuck with the kit gear diff and you're not allowed to lock it, putty it, etc. The only suggestions I'd have are A) to use anti-wear grease to slow it down a little and/or B) add an extra shim on the inside of the diff to slow it down even more. The rules do allow for shims, but this may be too liberal an interpretation.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:29 AM   #16984
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Hi Shawn.....made me smile when i saw your reply. Feel like i got caught red handed! Thought we were still in the diff testing phase? lol. No worries as i have fitted the kit diff and all seems smooth. Shame we cannot use the oil diff IMHO. Fingers crossed on that one. Thanks for your tips.
Shame it rained last night was looking forward to my brushless first outing. Roll on a week sunday. :-)
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:28 AM   #16985
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Originally Posted by back9monsta View Post
Check with Sean at TQ, I believe he ships internationally. He usually has this in stock.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...on_id=&pg_no=1
I got an email from Sean to say that they were out of stock

So I decided to make my own in the meantime using a piece of electrical conduit, a bit of yellow paint and jobs a gud un.



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Old 04-26-2012, 10:48 AM   #16986
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Just read over your club's mini rules. That is some stern stuff! If you're stuck with the kit gear diff and you're not allowed to lock it, putty it, etc. The only suggestions I'd have are A) to use anti-wear grease to slow it down a little and/or B) add an extra shim on the inside of the diff to slow it down even more. The rules do allow for shims, but this may be too liberal an interpretation.
Thanks Monkeyracing

Yes our club has very strict rules. Straight jacket stuff. And our diffs are regularly checked! so no use in shimming or putty etc.
I really hope we can have a gear diff in our brushless mini's. Its a no brainer really but the mini class at our club is a cheap easy way to start racing. And adding the initial cost of a brushless setup and diff, would put people off? The whole idea was to run brushed alongside brushless but it is clearly apparent 13t brushed is faster and more competitive. So at the moment we are running separate heats. But this is not what the club wants or needs having lots of TC A and B heats and GT's on weekend meets.
Damien.
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:12 PM   #16987
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Thought we were still in the diff testing phase?
only the selected few are doing the testing at the moment Damien and I was more than a little frowned upon when I turned up with mine fitted. But that was just out of pure frustration due to the wear I'm seeing on the kit drivetrain...
Which is mainly the outdrives, driveshafts and tyres.
So it appears where we have saved on motors we are losing out by replacing those more often.

Because the oil diff will only fit the M05 I can understand how the '03 runners will be at an aparent disadvantage, but never the less I hope common sense will soon prevail and the oil diffs will be made legal along with ball diffs for those that can't install them.

Meanwhile back at the bat cave.... ...and if all else fails I'm working on a backup plan ;
To minimise the slop/chatter in the driveshaft to outdrive area I've fitted the yeah racing versions with hard tamiya blades on the shaft. Feels much better and given half a chance of some dry weather I'll give that a go.


However if anyone else reading has any input on how you catered for both M03 and M05 during the integration of brushless at your club then we are all ears ?
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Old 04-26-2012, 04:32 PM   #16988
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True Shawn forgot the diff and m03 dilemma.
Might be something to think about there shawn....Batcave Rc.

Well done for thinking outside the box. My yeah racing outdrives have been holding up well, but will have to try the harder tamiya blades. Have you a part number Shawn? I find the yeah racing front c hubs impressive they have bearings top and bottom!

Its a shame we cannot use the rear ARB on the m05, They balance the rear nicely. The front ARB was a bit useless TBH. I didn't know they were not allowed...but Simmo kindly pointed that out. Fair enough.

Damien.
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Old 04-26-2012, 11:47 PM   #16989
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Yeah Racing outdrives are superb, and the way of the future. Double cardan joints should be allowed already... I fitted the losi xxx-s lcd's in my m03, after alot of dremeling, and it works nicely. That was way before the Arrowmax and Yeah Racing outdrives came out... Any videos of you guys mini's with the new outdrives ?
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Old 04-27-2012, 12:00 AM   #16990
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Have you a part number
Damien.
53890. Although nothing special about them they appear harder than the yellow Yeah racing ones.

Also if you use Tamiya U/J's get yourself some of these TOP Racing driveshaft pins. Part number PO DT0011.
They have flats on them to enable the grub screw to locate properly. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the standard ones to stay in there once using brushless. They are 2mm by 10mm.
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Old 04-27-2012, 04:07 AM   #16991
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Ahhh, the common sense message again, Shawn, Damien i'm sorry the committee at your club do not have common sense in allowing the oil diff just because a few say it is the only option to running brushless.

The rules are strict for the only reason that it has worked for us, the mini class has been a success from day 1 and the only blip we had was when certain people started loosing and calling others cheats, so the rules got stricter, simples. And guess what, the majority of drivers who want a class they can race in, with a level playing field, a reasonable limit on expenditure, and huge fun aspect are loving it and coming back week after week.

To be frowned upon for putting your oil diffs in against the rules set down by the committee and yourselves at the AGM is really to be expected isn't it. How is it within the spirit of the club or the sport for you to take it upon yourselves to decide the rules for the club?

We are happy for all and any input, but need time and discussion to adjust rules at a club as the rules are for all not just the few.

Perhaps Shawn has nearly hit the nail on the head, the switch to brushless has moved the wear and expense from the motor to the diff and drive train, oh well, swings and roundabouts, to quickly decide those expenses can be shrunk by the use of an oil diff may push the expense somewhere else. So where do we stop?

We wanted to allow brushless, (the committee and members) to bring the motor war to an end, bring the close racing back and lose the black art of tuning motors by water dipping etc which was going on and shouldn't have been.

The club is run by the committee that you as members voted in, and we are trying to do our best for the whole club not just a few. If you trusted us enough to vote us in, then why not trust us enough to set down the rules, which you all vote and agree on, rather than sneaking oil diffs in because you think it is the best option.

I am starting to think the only way forward for the brushless class is to allow you to do what you like if you run brushless, and I can see it now going the same way the outlaw mini class went.

There is a fine line between getting the rules open enough to be fun, but strict enough for the racing to FEEL close and acheiveable. It is mostly about feeling acheivable, we want drivers wanting to move to brushless to feel like they can acheive what you are acheiving without having to feel like they have to spend hundreds, we all know that some could spend pennies and still beat the cheque book racers.

As i said earlier, we are happy to receive help and suggestions, and if there is anyone that has concrete advice as to the best setup for brushless tamiya minis, we are listening. We are trying to keep the move to brushless as cheap as possible. In the UK at the moment some do not want to buy off ebay and are stuck paying 89 for the brushless kit, if we can show that a standard mini is capable of running the brushless kit without having to spend out on hardened this hardended that and oil diffs then great. If there is a chance they do have to uprate these parts then albeit, but we wanted to have it all down on paper so they know what they have to spend rather than they spend at the worst 89 then find out down the line that they need to spend another 75 to 100 on tougher parts.
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Old 04-27-2012, 05:10 AM   #16992
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... a bit of yellow paint and jobs a gud un.
I have to ask. Why yellow
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:35 AM   #16993
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Ahhh, the common sense message again, Shawn, Damien i'm sorry the committee at your club do not have common sense in allowing the oil diff just because a few say it is the only option to running brushless.

The rules are strict for the only reason that it has worked for us, the mini class has been a success from day 1 and the only blip we had was when certain people started loosing and calling others cheats, so the rules got stricter, simples. And guess what, the majority of drivers who want a class they can race in, with a level playing field, a reasonable limit on expenditure, and huge fun aspect are loving it and coming back week after week.

To be frowned upon for putting your oil diffs in against the rules set down by the committee and yourselves at the AGM is really to be expected isn't it. How is it within the spirit of the club or the sport for you to take it upon yourselves to decide the rules for the club?

We are happy for all and any input, but need time and discussion to adjust rules at a club as the rules are for all not just the few.

Perhaps Shawn has nearly hit the nail on the head, the switch to brushless has moved the wear and expense from the motor to the diff and drive train, oh well, swings and roundabouts, to quickly decide those expenses can be shrunk by the use of an oil diff may push the expense somewhere else. So where do we stop?

We wanted to allow brushless, (the committee and members) to bring the motor war to an end, bring the close racing back and lose the black art of tuning motors by water dipping etc which was going on and shouldn't have been.

The club is run by the committee that you as members voted in, and we are trying to do our best for the whole club not just a few. If you trusted us enough to vote us in, then why not trust us enough to set down the rules, which you all vote and agree on, rather than sneaking oil diffs in because you think it is the best option.

I am starting to think the only way forward for the brushless class is to allow you to do what you like if you run brushless, and I can see it now going the same way the outlaw mini class went.

There is a fine line between getting the rules open enough to be fun, but strict enough for the racing to FEEL close and acheiveable. It is mostly about feeling acheivable, we want drivers wanting to move to brushless to feel like they can acheive what you are acheiving without having to feel like they have to spend hundreds, we all know that some could spend pennies and still beat the cheque book racers.

As i said earlier, we are happy to receive help and suggestions, and if there is anyone that has concrete advice as to the best setup for brushless tamiya minis, we are listening. We are trying to keep the move to brushless as cheap as possible. In the UK at the moment some do not want to buy off ebay and are stuck paying 89 for the brushless kit, if we can show that a standard mini is capable of running the brushless kit without having to spend out on hardened this hardended that and oil diffs then great. If there is a chance they do have to uprate these parts then albeit, but we wanted to have it all down on paper so they know what they have to spend rather than they spend at the worst 89 then find out down the line that they need to spend another 75 to 100 on tougher parts.
Nicely written Darren.
I agree with you hence why i stated the situation in my previous post. I would never knowingly go against the rules of the club. And respect your experience in the hobby and all the committee. I'm sorry if you got the wrong end of the stick. I wholeheartedly agree its about fairness when it comes to mini racing and affordability. The last thing the club wants is brushless mini racing pricing people out of racing m chassis.
I am exited about brushless, but being honest im not entirely sure its the answer at our club to replace brushed black cans. And i don't think the masses will be going brushless just yet, and i understand and can't blame them.
For myself and a few others at the club its a fantastic middle ground, but i feel it will have to be kept separate heat. If we have the time that is. Please do not take offence to the discussion Darren. Its just discussion nothing else. We understand there are many aspects to be considered. And trust the committee and the decisions that will be made for the good of our club.

Damien.
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Old 04-27-2012, 10:49 AM   #16994
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53890. Although nothing special about them they appear harder than the yellow Yeah racing ones.

Also if you use Tamiya U/J's get yourself some of these TOP Racing driveshaft pins. Part number PO DT0011.
They have flats on them to enable the grub screw to locate properly. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the standard ones to stay in there once using brushless. They are 2mm by 10mm.
Thanks Shawn

I use the yeah racing uj's work really well and no problems, come in blingy blue to....lol. Had ecs ujs before and tamiya before that, the yeah racing work the best for me.

Damien.
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:15 AM   #16995
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I have to ask. Why yellow

Purely for weight saving reasons, this is a lighter colour to what I usually use.

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