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Old 02-07-2012, 02:44 AM   #16681
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You guys seem to have very light Minis.

The fastest Mini in our last race was an M05 at 1540g !!

We run Nimh/TEU101BK/Black Can.

My own M05 is 1490g.

Where are you guys trimming all the weight ?

I know that most of you run Lipo and HW but is all the weight saving in that ?
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:47 AM   #16682
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Originally Posted by stocker View Post
Thought I need to clarify this.

The Shimizu 60D tyres do not come with any insert, but can be purchased separately (PS-0458)

The Shimizu non-60D comes with a sponge insert, which is not recommended to use? And should we use the 5 or 5.5mm Spice insert for the Shimizu?

I see a D24R Shimizu tyre as well, so the rear SP is even softer than that?

Thanks.
Sorry .... yes. Only use the extra large style inserts (foam ) for the Shimizu 60D style tyres

The Spivce insert I would only use the 5mm ... 5.5 would make it too hard.

The 24SP is a special REAR ONLY tyre ... dont know if it is softer or not but it works !!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-07-2012, 02:50 AM   #16683
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Originally Posted by marcos graveyar View Post
You guys seem to have very light Minis.

The fastest Mini in our last race was an M05 at 1540g !!

We run Nimh/TEU101BK/Black Can.

My own M05 is 1490g.

Where are you guys trimming all the weight ?

I know that most of you run Lipo and HW but is all the weight saving in that ?
A lipo can be up to 200g lighter compared to say a 4200 nimh pack

There is the biggest saving
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:45 AM   #16684
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Hi, I feel antiroll bars lift the inside tires as outer tires are compressed. I want to keep both front tires as planted as possible during acceleration and cornering hence the blue springs. But that is theory. I've tested all possible spring combinations from Tamiya red to white and just felt comfortable with blue rear and red front as base setup. Then I tune from there.

But surface and layout are a big factor. Sometimes I find myself running softer rear springs.

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I assumed you put harder springs at the rear to reduce the roll? Was wondering if putting anti roll bars front or rear would have also solved the diff-ing out without changing the weight shift? or did you also want to reduce weight shift to the rear while accelerating?

Thanks for sharing your experience!
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Old 02-07-2012, 04:58 AM   #16685
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Hi, I feel antiroll bars lift the inside tires as outer tires are compressed. I want to keep both front tires as planted as possible during acceleration and cornering hence the blue springs. But that is theory. I've tested all possible spring combinations from Tamiya red to white and just felt comfortable with blue rear and red front as base setup. Then I tune from there.
Yep, thats exactly what they do. I run rear only on my mini. I run the blue front red rear. It prevents the rear from rolling as much and taking the weight off the inside front, but also sill keeps weight on the rear to help it grip.

Roll bars can increase or decrease grip depending on how much weight they are allowing/preventing from leaving the inside tyre. The outside tyre is doing more work then the inside tyre when cornering, and increasing vertical load on that tyre does produce more lateral grip from it. But the weight leaving the inside wheel reduces the lateral grip from that wheel, and that grip isn't proportional to the weight transfer. Eg, 10 grams of weight may take 3% off the inside and add 5% to the outside, but 20 grams might take 8% and give only 6%. I'm just making up numbers there but you get the idea. So if to much weight leaves the inside wheel you reduce the overall lateral grip, if not enough weight leaves the inside wheel, you reduce lateral grip. Its all about finding the sweet spot for your tyres/surface/car setup/personal preference.
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Old 02-07-2012, 05:05 AM   #16686
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Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Hi, I feel antiroll bars lift the inside tires as outer tires are compressed. I want to keep both front tires as planted as possible during acceleration and cornering hence the blue springs. But that is theory. I've tested all possible spring combinations from Tamiya red to white and just felt comfortable with blue rear and red front as base setup. Then I tune from there.

But surface and layout are a big factor. Sometimes I find myself running softer rear springs.
Maybe on the bench, but not on the track.

The anti-roll bar shares the spring tension from the inside wheel with the outside wheel, resisting roll. So the wheel lifting shouldn't happen, because the chassis rolls less for the same given load transfer.

I say shouldn't, but in practice lots of parts of the setup can combine and cause the wheels to lift. No substitute for actual track testing, as the F1 teams in Jerez today know.

It's true that a stiffer front will generate less traction, but that is just the nature of stiffer springs, not their effect on wheel lifting.

I couldn't get away with red front springs on the carpet tracks we run on, but I defintely think that a stiff rear end on the Mini is the way to go.
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Old 02-07-2012, 05:47 AM   #16687
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For those who run stiffer spring in rear, soft in front. Do you run optional shock tower ??
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Old 02-07-2012, 05:49 AM   #16688
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For those who run stiffer spring in rear, soft in front. Do you run optional shock tower ??
I run the optional tower up front.

A lot of people seem to like it, it just makes the front of the car more positive.
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Old 02-07-2012, 11:39 PM   #16689
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I have had a set of new sweeps sitting around for about a week that I just put on. well that just slammed my car. Never checked the ride hight before but I was 6mm with the TC wheels and tires, like 4mm with the D60 and 2mm or so with the sweeps, and the rear is even lower.

well I am guessing thats no good. Have not opened up the shocks yet but I am guessing there are internal spacers because the a arms are tucked up way past nutral.

so where is a good starting point for ride hight...4-5mm? So its normal to have to open the shocks to change hight if you change tire size? Not that its a hard thing to do.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:19 AM   #16690
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I have had a set of new sweeps sitting around for about a week that I just put on. well that just slammed my car. Never checked the ride hight before but I was 6mm with the TC wheels and tires, like 4mm with the D60 and 2mm or so with the sweeps, and the rear is even lower.

well I am guessing thats no good. Have not opened up the shocks yet but I am guessing there are internal spacers because the a arms are tucked up way past nutral.

so where is a good starting point for ride hight...4-5mm? So its normal to have to open the shocks to change hight if you change tire size? Not that its a hard thing to do.
http://rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php?...=23&Itemid=148

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Old 02-08-2012, 01:44 AM   #16691
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Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
So its normal to have to open the shocks to change hight if you change tire size? Not that its a hard thing to do.
assuming you are using trf mini shocks, no it isnt normal, as if built per the instructions there would only be one oring on the shaft, under the piston. thus allowing the use of anything from 64mm touringcar wheels to 55mm mini size tyres; and adjusting the preload collar to get the desired height.

however if using the cva shocks then its possible to have built them incorrectly by adding to many spacers to make them shorter to match trf shaft length.

only other explanation for them to being so short would have been to get rid of droop.

also like Ado has linked above is an article i had written a while ago which should help with the heights a little better
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:26 AM   #16692
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Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
I have had a set of new sweeps sitting around for about a week that I just put on. well that just slammed my car. Never checked the ride hight before but I was 6mm with the TC wheels and tires, like 4mm with the D60 and 2mm or so with the sweeps, and the rear is even lower.

well I am guessing thats no good. Have not opened up the shocks yet but I am guessing there are internal spacers because the a arms are tucked up way past nutral.

so where is a good starting point for ride hight...4-5mm? So its normal to have to open the shocks to change hight if you change tire size? Not that its a hard thing to do.
We have a 3mm ride-height minimum in our local series (which is actually fine with no rubbing to speak of, the cars need less ride height than you might expect), and we also use Sweep tyres.

To get a ride height around 3.5mm at the front and 4mm at the rear plus a smidge of droop, you need to build the (Tamiya) shocks to a total length of 56.5mm.

The TRF shocks built with the o-ring come in at closer to 55.5mm, so the car will be too slammed unless you find a slightly thinner spacer to put inside or unscrew the shock bottom a couple of turns.

The CVA shocks build up about right with the 6mm spacer included in the pack, you could maybe use 5.5mm in them if you are too low. Don't unscrew the bottoms of the CVA shocks as they will come off unless tightened fully!
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:37 AM   #16693
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I didnt build these shocks, got the car used and I think he was running tc wheels cause it came with a brand new set. 6mm would probably work ok with the tc's

the shocks I am not sure what they are, black plastic oil filled. eyelet to eyelet 50mm. I will open the shocks and check the spacers and set it up for 4mm with the sweep's
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:18 PM   #16694
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Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
I didnt build these shocks, got the car used and I think he was running tc wheels cause it came with a brand new set. 6mm would probably work ok with the tc's

the shocks I am not sure what they are, black plastic oil filled. eyelet to eyelet 50mm. I will open the shocks and check the spacers and set it up for 4mm with the sweep's

from the top to bottom of rodend/ ball cups mine measure around 56mm, this is when they are new, if they are warn down, you will get different readings
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:04 PM   #16695
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Originally Posted by Tim K View Post
For 55D tyres - Express Radials (I think they are now re-branded as Yeah Racing)
Ansmann radials (if you can find them)

I used Express radials front and rear and they worked well.

For 60D tyres - Tamiya S-Grip and M-Grip. I used M-Grip front and rear and they worked well.

If your rules allow it you can use Tamiya rally block tyres, or Ride Mini pin, the sort that you might find on an offroad RC-18.

Ty very much. I will try
Medium spring for front and hard spring for rear can good work? How much wt shock oil are you using for front & rear?

Last edited by Hidetaki; 02-11-2012 at 03:12 PM.
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