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Old 01-23-2012, 10:17 AM   #16576
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I have a 18t pinion but need a 20t....What is the stock pitch...48? or is it a mod?
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:20 AM   #16577
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I have a 18t pinion but need a 20t....What is the stock pitch...48? or is it a mod?
0.6mod.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:21 AM   #16578
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it's mod.6 IIRC also known as metric 48.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:26 AM   #16579
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thanks guys
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:33 AM   #16580
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Originally Posted by Core Creations View Post
Anyone know why the Tamiya #53509 Hard 20t pinion is so hard to find in stock?? Any good long lasting alternatives...cant stand the stock pinion.
Robinson Racing pn 1120. They're steel and never seem to wear out.

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500.000 sounds really tough.
Is there still any difference to a spool regarding on power pull or off power turn in?
Yes, the 500K is very tough, but I've also run a spool and liked that. The advantage with the oil filled diff is that it will be a little easier on outdrives and axles when I crash or clip the boards. (and I crash a lot) As to the suggestion that it be run with kit or lighter oil: It felt exactly like running the regular gear diff, or like a smooth ball diff, at best. Seemed pointless to run it that way. This is, or course, what works on our race surface with me driving my car. I like my cars to be a little loose on corner entry and this is what works for me.

Got it buttoned up this afternoon. I think it will be just about perfect. You can still get differential action, but when the powers on, it wants both wheels spinning. Held one wheel while applying full throttle for under two seconds. Motor never got anywhere near top speed and it released a puff of magical smoke. Good thing silver cans are plentiful and cheap.

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Last edited by monkeyracing; 01-23-2012 at 07:23 PM. Reason: Because typing long messages on an iPhone blows.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:10 PM   #16581
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:52 PM   #16582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Core Creations View Post
Anyone know why the Tamiya #53509 Hard 20t pinion is so hard to find in stock?? Any good long lasting alternatives...cant stand the stock pinion.
Either Tamiya don't make enough of them, or too many people are buying them

Yeah Racing do a decent one, and Kawada do a good one as well. I've been using Kawada brand for a while now with no problems.
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Old 01-24-2012, 01:51 PM   #16583
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I got a kimbrough on there but there is some play in the steering that is not the saver. looks like upgrade time.
Hi, I use cheap teflon plumbers tape (white stuff) to take a lot of slop out of the steering. In the ball cups, steering kingpins, camber links etc.

Also Tamiya shims (0.1, 0.2, 0.3mm) on the arms. Plus superglue in the c-hub plastics to that the hingpins are tight. Anyways the arms will swivel loosely on the fixed hingepins.

Slop helps (easier to drive). But I just hate it.

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Old 01-24-2012, 06:43 PM   #16584
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I still havent gotten to the track to try it out(rain). will try tomorrow. I shimed the c hubs maybe a bit snug now but got a 180oz servo. looks like the a arms need some shimming.

will try the teflon tape trick, thanks

not a big fan of aluminum, plus it looks like I could spend $50 just in the steering. Are there any key pieces that should be changed?
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:37 AM   #16585
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The whole alloy steering is a worthwhile package and a good investment in the long run. Much sturdier than the plastic original. I use the Tamiya parts (class rules) but from what I have seen the cheaper sets by 3Racing are just as good but a fraction of the price.
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:31 PM   #16586
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thanks I will look into the 3Racing
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Old 01-25-2012, 07:27 PM   #16587
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Ok guys, got to help me out here. The car is pulling to the left under power. If I let it cost it tracks straight. For me that seems like the diff

Now I changed to a 20t and ran it in the street. I loosend the diff, tightened the diff. still wants to pull. Is this normal? not like its undrivable.

I had to tear into everything today cause I seemed to have an internal gear issue, so after a 5 min tear down had the gearbox open. Stock white gears and a tamiya ball diff. Some how I got a couple of grains of sands in the gears. Nothing that an exacto knife couldnt fix.

Opened up the diff and it looked fine, a bit dry, but no wear on anything, greased it back up and the directions said to tighten it all the way. Nothing about backing it off 1/8. Diff felt smooth.

got it back together. I realy think the steering is tight, bearings all felt good, tires back on, not to snug so no drag....Still tracks to the left under power.

Could it be my alinement? I am toed out, if the left side is toed more would that cause a pull under power?

the tires I am using are worn, would they cause a pull under power? this FWD is all new to me, just not familiar with the handling. Want to go and talk to the guys at the track but we dont have an on road race till the second week in Feb. There might be some help there next sun. I know what a pain this is to try and fix without seeing it.
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:03 AM   #16588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
I still havent gotten to the track to try it out(rain). will try tomorrow. I shimed the c hubs maybe a bit snug now but got a 180oz servo. looks like the a arms need some shimming.

will try the teflon tape trick, thanks

not a big fan of aluminum, plus it looks like I could spend $50 just in the steering. Are there any key pieces that should be changed?
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
Ok guys, got to help me out here. The car is pulling to the left under power. If I let it cost it tracks straight. For me that seems like the diff

Now I changed to a 20t and ran it in the street. I loosend the diff, tightened the diff. still wants to pull. Is this normal? not like its undrivable.

I had to tear into everything today cause I seemed to have an internal gear issue, so after a 5 min tear down had the gearbox open. Stock white gears and a tamiya ball diff. Some how I got a couple of grains of sands in the gears. Nothing that an exacto knife couldnt fix.

Opened up the diff and it looked fine, a bit dry, but no wear on anything, greased it back up and the directions said to tighten it all the way. Nothing about backing it off 1/8. Diff felt smooth.

got it back together. I realy think the steering is tight, bearings all felt good, tires back on, not to snug so no drag....Still tracks to the left under power.

Could it be my alinement? I am toed out, if the left side is toed more would that cause a pull under power?

the tires I am using are worn, would they cause a pull under power? this FWD is all new to me, just not familiar with the handling. Want to go and talk to the guys at the track but we dont have an on road race till the second week in Feb. There might be some help there next sun. I know what a pain this is to try and fix without seeing it.
You need to keep all the moving parts very free. The steering especially, don't count on the servo overcoming any friction, the free play in the system will stop the steering from centring. I had to ream out the M-05 kit steering cranks to stop them from binding.

Pulling to one side under power and the other side off power is usually a tweak issue rather than a diff issue (unless there is obvious binding in a bearing). The tweak could be because of the aforementioned tight steering; very uneven left/right weight distribution; or uneven shock settings on left and right.
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Old 01-26-2012, 10:42 AM   #16589
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I've had a Mini for a couple years but just recently decided to take it seriously with the addition of a brushless 17.5 class in Tamiya's TCS racing series.

I chased different setups and the car has always just been ok so I figured it was up to the driver to make the most out of what it was.

The best advice I received was from Granpa and it was just a common sense thing but had been overlooked non the less.
He reminded me to get the car to the standard neutral setup, toe, camber, ride height etc. He said put it where you think it should be then put a fresh set of tires on it and just drive it for a pack.
This was to "scrub" in a pair of tires on the front that would then be moved to the rear and left there, reason being that the rear of the car would take forever to scrub in a pair.
As soon as I did this and had fresh (from the rear) tires on the front, the car seemed to have settled in and was dialed. It paid off with a TQ and win at the recent TCS race.
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:08 PM   #16590
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Well I think I got the steering fixed. Did 2 things so not sure what made the most improvment. The front hubs were a bit tight in the c-hubs, they got freed. Put on a new Kimbro saver.

Went out to the track to give it a shot. It pulled really bad to the left, wait I didnt trim it after I put the new servo saver. Once I had it trimed it tracked good. I am happy.

I am running on asphalt and I think the front springs on the plastic tamiya oil filled shock are way to stiff. they are the gray ones(yellow on the rear). Hi speed corners I get a lot of wheel hop. even on the straights I get some hop out of the front. going to have to try some different springs.

Took a couple of pics at the track. Not a big fan of the Camero body but it does look cool going around the track


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