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Old 12-21-2011, 02:37 PM   #16321
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Originally Posted by R1wurks View Post
Thanks for testing the cvds Grandpa. Im glad all you guys loved them.

here's some pictures of the prototype cvd's that Grandpa was testing. I also did a weight comparison, we shaved 5.68 grams from the Tamiya CVD's.Thats 35% less rotating mass.

I also attached a pic of the redesigned pin "locking pin"

R1WURKS LIGHTWEIGHT SPRING STEEL CVD'S


STOCK TAMIYA CVD'S

R1WURKS LIGHTWEIGHT SPRING STEEL CVD'S

R1WURKS LOCKING PIN
Looks good.
Spring steel?
Just woundering if you really wanted to reduce rotating mass just
make them out of magnesium.
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:37 PM   #16322
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only problem i see with the unis is it only has one set of pin wholes, so once the pin wears down and elongates the whole you will need to replace the uni with a new half, that is if it sold separately. otherwise you need a brand new pair each time.

were as the tamiya unis have two sets of wholes, so when you have worn down the first set of pins and wholes you can replace with a new pin in a fresh whole.

hopefully that make sense.

oh, also depends on what motor you run, id guess a 540 wouldn't cause as much wear compared to the brushless I run
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Last edited by I)arkness; 12-21-2011 at 02:48 PM. Reason: added sentance
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Old 12-21-2011, 02:55 PM   #16323
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I both agree and disagree with you on your comments. Yes, the rules do keep the costs down and are to "level" the playing field. And do encourage intermediate level racers to participate. If you will note there is a class specifically for beginners. Mini, however, is populated by many veteran racers who have been racing for many years and is, perhaps, the most competitive class. I've raced Minis at the USA TCS series for 5 or 6 years and am a relative newcomer. Making the A Main, at some of even the Regional qualifiers, is tough.

One of the rules I hated initially was the Spec tire rule, but it forced us to really learn how to set up a car. Prior to that, we could cover up set up errors with different tires and inserts. Real Formula 1 racing uses a spec tire and it really exposes badly set up cars.

Actually, the motor rpm limit is one of the better rules. It was instituted due to a situation that existed in this country where a handful of racers just dominated cause they knew how to build extremely fast Silvercan motors. I'm unaware of what the situation is like where you race, but when you have a motor turning 5 to 10 thousand more rpm than the competition, it's not a race, but a joke.

We all whine and bitch about the rules, but in total, Tamiya here in the USA has done a good job over the years. Some years have been better than others.
Some guys are advancing the timing on the silver can motors. Wow!
That could be a problem.
I'm not a big fan of the silver can motors as you can tell.

Tamiya should re-think about running a 21.5 brushless motor with no boost rule.
Never have to buy another motor again.
Save money in the long run.

We had a problem here about a few guys over-charging lipos.
They would charge at 12 amps not to 8.4 volts on a two cell lipo but
charge to 10.2 volts.
They would run a four mintue race and still be above 8.4 volts after the race.
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:29 PM   #16324
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Some guys are advancing the timing on the silver can motors. Wow!
That could be a problem.
I'm not a big fan of the silver can motors as you can tell.
It's been a problem for years. That's why Tamiya went to a strict handout policy at the Nats. My club went to a spec 2200kv BL system. We're happy campers.

Quote:
We had a problem here about a few guys over-charging lipos.
They would charge at 12 amps not to 8.4 volts on a two cell lipo but
charge to 10.2 volts.
They would run a four mintue race and still be above 8.4 volts after the race.
At a recent race event here, we checked voltage before the cars were allowed on the track. Anything over 8.40, even .01v and you had to discharge your batts. Keeps things fair. Guys overcharging should be banned permanently. The risk they're taking is at other people's expense, not just their own. If you're that desperate to win, learn how to drive.
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:33 PM   #16325
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post

Anything over 8.40, even .01v and you had to discharge your batts. Keeps things fair.
that seems a bit ridiculous, considering most chargers stop at 8.44-8.46v
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:09 PM   #16326
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Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
Looks good.
Spring steel?
Just woundering if you really wanted to reduce rotating mass just
make them out of magnesium.
You know the answer to your own ?????


Quote:
Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
only problem i see with the unis is it only has one set of pin wholes, so once the pin wears down and elongates the whole you will need to replace the uni with a new half, that is if it sold separately. otherwise you need a brand new pair each time.

were as the tamiya unis have two sets of wholes, so when you have worn down the first set of pins and wholes you can replace with a new pin in a fresh whole.

hopefully that make sense. :roll eyes:


Yes and no. The units are machined from spring steel, not soft steel like the Tamiya and 3 Racing units. The actual weakness might be in the cross pins. They will wear before the yokes. Just ask yourself how many pins you wore out compared to the axle units.
.

oh, also depends on what motor you run, id guess a 540 wouldn't cause as much wear compared to the brushless I run
All testing was done with a BL 17.5 with the timing cranked way over.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
Some guys are advancing the timing on the silver can motors. Wow!
That could be a problem.
I'm not a big fan of the silver can motors as you can tell.

Tamiya should re-think about running a 21.5 brushless motor with no boost rule.
Never have to buy another motor again.
Save money in the long run.

We had a problem here about a few guys over-charging lipos.
They would charge at 12 amps not to 8.4 volts on a two cell lipo but
charge to 10.2 volts.
They would run a four mintue race and still be above 8.4 volts after the race.
No the timing on the motors was not advanced or "cranked". Besides the windings themselves will limit how much you can advance the timing. You are thinking "old school". Gotta think a little out of the box and as I said, only a Handful of guys know how to do this and they aren't answering any ????? Besides, advancing the timing is illegal as hell, easily exposed, and something no self respecting "tuner" would do.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:12 PM   #16327
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I've got a really cheap battery charger and it can be calibrated: 30 seconds, tops. Can't see any reason why this would be a problem. We only ran into an overcharging problem once over the entire weekend here. I charged my battery, checked the voltage using the voltmeter on the tech table and adjusted my charger appropriately.

Keep in mind that this race series covers 6 or 7 cities across western Canada and in the first three rounds we've not had any real issues. The whole point of the exercise is fairness and safety. If you're a good driver and you don't blow up the pitting area, you get a trophy!

As for the idea of drawing such a finite line: Well, you've got to draw it somewhere. We could have set it at 8.44 and then dq'd someone because they were at 8.45. It's still just one hundredth of a volt, right?

Jim
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:24 PM   #16328
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
No the timing on the motors was not advanced or "cranked". Besides the windings themselves will limit how much you can advance the timing. You are thinking "old school". Gotta think a little out of the box and as I said, only a Handful of guys know how to do this and they aren't answering any ????? Besides, advancing the timing is illegal as hell, easily exposed, and something no self respecting "tuner" would do.
I agree..

Thinking out of the box.

Well if I was to change the power band on a silver can motor the easy thing to do would be to use charging Neo magnets to adjust the torque and rpm points.
Also use some sort of commutator drops made from a micro-lubricant kerosine
base to keep the commutator clean.
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:39 PM   #16329
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I agree..

Thinking out of the box.

Well if I was to change the power band on a silver can motor the easy thing to do would be to use charging Neo magnets to adjust the torque and rpm points.
Also use some sort of commutator drops made from a micro-lubricant kerosine
base to keep the commutator clean.
The whole question is moot anyway. With the rpm limits and hand out motors at the Nationals, motor shenanigans are way down. The margins are so close between a box stock motor and an expert 'tuned" motor it's hard to tell the difference. And it's hardly worth the effort.

Yeah, the rare earth magnet route is one way, but there are other ways. This whole motor thing is like watching Kobe Bryant play basketball. It's one thing to know what he's doing, but it's a whole different question of how he's doing it.
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Old 12-22-2011, 02:54 PM   #16330
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Thanks for the info. Does a person need to go with a different diff than stock one for the m03/ m05 for reasonable performance? Or will the stock one do?

I'm quite tempted to try the M-03?

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M-03 chassis parts are still pretty easy to get. The main thing is the main chassis parts, pretty much everything else is interchangable or buildable. My LHS has M-03 main chassis parts in black, silver and blue right now. I've got 2 sets as spares and they cost about $12-13 each.

If you can get a set of stock upper links for the M-03, they're bullet and idiot proof. They can be built out of turnbuckle hardware, or you can get the 3 Racing upper link kit: Its titanium and cheap. It's very easy to build the two connectors for the steering linkage out of spares as well. The lower suspension arms, gears, dampers, axles and body posts all interchange between the 03 and the 05.

The only advantage of the 05 is a tiny bit more tunability. The 03 has proven to be a true warhorse, though. Most locals here seem to be reverting to the 03.
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Old 12-23-2011, 12:03 PM   #16331
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Thanks for the info. Does a person need to go with a different diff than stock one for the m03/ m05 for reasonable performance? Or will the stock one do?

I'm quite tempted to try the M-03?
I know the ball diff work really well.

I'm testing a stock M-05 diff that I filled the side holes with epoxy to seal in 100,000 weight oil.

Theoretically should work out just find.
Will let you know how well it works.
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:10 PM   #16332
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I know the ball diff work really well.

I'm testing a stock M-05 diff that I filled the side holes with epoxy to seal in 100,000 weight oil.

Theoretically should work out just find.
Will let you know how well it works.
That will leak everywhere. You would have no seals behind the large main gears and the oil will get everywhere. Simply use the 3 Racing gear diff but it only fits the M05
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:52 PM   #16333
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Thanks for the info. Does a person need to go with a different diff than stock one for the m03/ m05 for reasonable performance? Or will the stock one do?

I'm quite tempted to try the M-03?
The stock diff can work well. you can build it per the instructions, but use a little anti-wear grease to tighten it up a bit. If you go with the M-03, you will find diffs made for the M-05 won't fit, so use a TA-03 ball diff. The best upgrade there would be to substitute hardened or ceramic diff balls as the stock ones are kind of crappy. A little anti-wear grease, crank it down and you've got traction.
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Old 12-23-2011, 04:55 PM   #16334
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That will leak everywhere. You would have no seals behind the large main gears and the oil will get everywhere. Simply use the 3 Racing gear diff but it only fits the M05
I have a M-05.
Where can I buy a oil diff to fit?

Thank you.
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Old 12-23-2011, 05:07 PM   #16335
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I have a M-05.
Where can I buy a oil diff to fit?

Thank you.
http://www.rcmart.com/rc-3racing-m06...h=595_744_1494
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