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Old 12-18-2011, 02:59 AM   #16276
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Well, never got that far today. Made a mistake I haven't made for a very long time, if ever - I soldered a Dean's plug on backwards. There were two tiny mushroom clouds atop my desk this afternoon. One from a shiny new TEU-101BK ESC and the other from a Spektrum SR3100 receiver. Oops.

Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.

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Opps.... Don't worry, many of us have been there, done that before
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:38 AM   #16277
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Originally Posted by tony gray View Post
Tamiyas M Four has hit the HK shops, with a price that is still pretty high, but not as bad as it first looked.



By the way, it's also hit the rc-mini workshop, and our full review will be up soonish...with xmas in the way it might take a bit longer than usual..
Hmmm. For once, I think they are priced better in Japan. Maybe I should bring a few back, then.

One other thing I found (not sure how recent it is) Tamiya released the R5 Turbo GT2 again on a 1/12 platform as they call it. I had a look at it in a shop here and it looks like a normal M05.

There are also conversions of all kinds mainly for Tamiya kits, including a TA05 to make it a mini (don't remember who makes it), and a full carbon version of the M05 made by Tech Racing. Amazing stuff in hobby shops at any rate.

I'll check again the pricing on the M Four kit.
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Old 12-18-2011, 05:49 AM   #16278
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Hmmm. For once, I think they are priced better in Japan. Maybe I should bring a few back, then.
The cheapest I can find it here in japan is 31,500yen which, given the exchange rate is actually more that the pirice listed above.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:01 AM   #16279
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Well, never got that far today. Made a mistake I haven't made for a very long time, if ever - I soldered a Dean's plug on backwards. There were two tiny mushroom clouds atop my desk this afternoon. One from a shiny new TEU-101BK ESC and the other from a Spektrum SR3100 receiver. Oops.

Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.

Jim
I soldered a deans female on an esc and as my soldering is not
my strong point this was spot on heat shrink tube the works
Then i realised what i had done !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:05 AM   #16280
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The cheapest I can find it here in japan is 31,500yen which, given the exchange rate is actually more that the pirice listed above.
Where are you looking?
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:06 AM   #16281
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
the cap stores engery. So does the Batt
the batt stores much more energy than the caps
if the cap worked as people seem to think, the esc would ALLWAYS draw engery from the cap 1st, making it worthless.

as far as the esc is concerned, it will ALLWAYS draw the most energy from whatever has the lowest resistance(reactance) , the keeping cap & batt voltages more or less the same , allways.

Just my theory..
the batts a constant(sorta) DC voltage source, not an AC source where caps are used to smooth out ripple from voltage drops from + to 0 to -
You are correct.
These caps are banked with resistors once fully charged they throw a spike of voltage, its short, but it keeps pulsing higher voltage.
And voltage is speed
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:44 PM   #16282
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Here are some pictures
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Tamiya mini cooper-mini-1.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-mini-2.jpg  
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Old 12-18-2011, 03:24 PM   #16283
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There are also different capacitors for acceleration and top speed.

TOP .15F (for top speed) <- stores more energy but delivers it slowly
Keyence Chevalier (for acceleration) <- stores less energy but delivers it fast

Both capacitors deliver energy faster than a battery. Preventing a low voltage input to the esc.

And if you combine both, then best. Just my experience.
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:16 PM   #16284
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Where are you looking?
I tend to find rc maniacs (rcmxstore.com) to be good.

I've also checked rc-champ, their price is even cheaper again as 28,224 yen.

Of course, they're both internet shops, so the cost of sending is on top.
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:22 PM   #16285
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Here are some Mini Mod tips to make your Mini faster:

(1) Use strapping tape to hold your batteries - no side braces

You can adjust your weight bias left to right to offset your batteries from center.

(2) Remove the two chassis braces from the chassis for more rear bite

(3) Add a small rubber band to the steering ball to steering ball to keep the arms swept back to remove play and wheel wobble

(4) Remove all transsmision ball bearing covers and grease - dry and lightly oil with a synthetic lubrucant.

(5) Add a light spray of silicon to the plastic transmission gears and then add a dry graphite powder

There's more later...
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:23 PM   #16286
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if anyone is interested, im selling a new tamiya m-05 pro with lipo batt, tamiya motor and body. every thing is new and comes with extra parts from the build

text me at 201 993 5748

thanks
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Old 12-18-2011, 04:37 PM   #16287
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Need help. Purchasing a M06 chassis kit but have no idea on what body to get for racing? Have a M04 Miata body.... would that be legal?
Thanks in advance
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Last edited by chef88; 12-18-2011 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 12-18-2011, 07:40 PM   #16288
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The Miata shell is legal for TCS, as are the new RX7 and Alpine shells. In Tamiya's words
Quote:
Any Tamiya MINI body parts set made for the M-03, M-05, M-06 may be used on any chassis platform.
I really doubt tat they'd have any problem with using any Tamiya shell on any Tamiya car. They used to have a rule regarding body matching which wheels were driven, but they started releasing RWD type bodies on FWD platforms all on their own. Put an end to that rule.

Jim
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:00 PM   #16289
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Originally Posted by cannon View Post
Granpa

I have never had any issue with using the 3 Racing universals instead of the tamiya versions. They are both reliable and cheap. And now 3 Racing has released a sleeve for their universals which slips over the outside and eliminates the need to use a grub screw to lock the pin in place
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
id have to agree, im using a set of the 3racing unis in my velo mini doing 80+ km/h and they haven't failed yet
Glad you guys have had good luck with the 3 Racing universals. I was afraid to try them because all my bad experiences with their products in the past. They are certainly cheap enough.

Finished a full day of testing with only one minor glitch which was easily correctable and was due to a misimpression of mine and was not the fault of the R1 Wurks CVD unit. The units performed beautifully all day and were perfect at the end of the day. I loved the fact there was no play in the unit and did not have to use any axle shims. I was also able to add a 1mm spacer to space out the wheel and still had full contact in the nylon on the wheel retainer nut.

So far, all the local Mini racers here at the Tamiya USA track have been impressed. I was given the units to test at their urging. What they said was " Have Granpa test them. If anyone can break them, he can". One of our local Mini gurus was convinced after seeing what I put the units thru today.

Last edited by Granpa; 12-18-2011 at 09:03 PM. Reason: deletion
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:46 PM   #16290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr RCTech View Post
Here are some Mini Mod tips to make your Mini faster:

(1) Use strapping tape to hold your batteries - no side braces

You can adjust your weight bias left to right to offset your batteries from center.

(2) Remove the two chassis braces from the chassis for more rear bite

(3) Add a small rubber band to the steering ball to steering ball to keep the arms swept back to remove play and wheel wobble

(4) Remove all transsmision ball bearing covers and grease - dry and lightly oil with a synthetic lubrucant.

(5) Add a light spray of silicon to the plastic transmission gears and then add a dry graphite powder

There's more later...
only two worth doing is 4 and 5, but on 5 i wouldn't use graphite power, no point, the silicone spray is good enough

just my opinion
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