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Old 12-15-2011, 05:54 PM   #16261
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A pool noodle is a good idea. One of the better ones I've seen is the sole of a flip flop. It's nice because is about the right thickness.
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Old 12-15-2011, 06:29 PM   #16262
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A pool noodle is a good idea. One of the better ones I've seen is the sole of a flip flop. It's nice because is about the right thickness.

you can also go buy one of the garden kneeling pads from a hardware store, cut it to size and they work quite well
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:35 AM   #16263
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Many, many thanks again to all !!!!
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:33 AM   #16264
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Thanks for the pic of your setup. I used to race r/c 20+ years ago. 1/12 modified carpet was what I last raced.

I'm thinking about racing again and getting the M05 pro kit.

I'm still a little confused about speed controls, batteries, and motors as their were not many choices in my day. So I've been reading these forums to better understand the new technology.


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Originally Posted by Bart_Banaan View Post
Here are some pics of my M05 Pro. I've build it for the TIM-Challenge (Tamiya International Mini-chassis Challenge) in the Netherlands - march 2012. Upcoming weekend will be the first race for me and this car at a track in the North of the Netherlands. I'm used to race offroad 1/8th nitro buggy and 1/10 electro buggy, so I'll let surprise me by this litte car...]
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:29 AM   #16265
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Pretty sure this has been covered before, but searching for capacitor brings up a lot of hits. Here's what I'm wondering about: I was just watching some of Grahoo's videos and some of the cars in the videos had large capacitors, like you'd stick on the battery leads, attached directly to the motor.

The vids were a little older, so it was all brushed technology. Any idea if running a larger capacitor on a silver can's motor leads would present any advantage or problem when utilizing a Tamiya (TEU 101BK) ESC? I've got some larger caps lying around and I'm sticking a car together with a stock speedy. Thought I'd ask before I got the iron heated up.

I know the cap will store some juice when off throttle, but would it be controlled in any way or would it just squirt out at random? (That's what she said!)

Jim
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:19 AM   #16266
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Yes it just squirts out. I have no idea
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Old 12-17-2011, 12:52 PM   #16267
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Any idea if running a larger capacitor on a silver can's motor leads would present any advantage or problem when utilizing a Tamiya (TEU 101BK) ESC?
I know the cap will store some juice when off throttle.

Jim
Capacitors will aid the efficency of the ESC by opening and closing the FET gates faster.
With brush or brushless motors this will work.
New ESC already have banking caps built-in there electronics.

Will it help with Silver can motors?

Why not.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/sucamoforxse.html
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Old 12-17-2011, 02:54 PM   #16268
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Those caps are still designed for the battery side of the ESC, though. I'm just going to hook up this 4700uf, 10v cap to my motor to see what happens.

The way I see it is that a cap is like a spring, but for voltage. As the car slows approaching a corner, for example, energy gets put in (compression) and at some point the cap has to release the voltage (decompression). I'm mainly concerned about whether or not it's controlled or if the car just launch on me.

Jim
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:54 PM   #16269
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Those caps are still designed for the battery side of the ESC, though. I'm just going to hook up this 4700uf, 10v cap to my motor to see what happens.

The way I see it is that a cap is like a spring, but for voltage. As the car slows approaching a corner, for example, energy gets put in (compression) and at some point the cap has to release the voltage (decompression). I'm mainly concerned about whether or not it's controlled or if the car just launch on me.

Jim
Motor side capacitor will just clean up motor noise.

Better to hook up on battery side.
Keeps battery voltage from dropping off from high amp spikes.
Voltage is motor speed.
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:06 PM   #16270
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Off topic, but thought all Mini enthusiasts would be interested in this cause it addresses a weak point in all Minis. Steve from R1 Wurks brought by some CVD units that were incredible. Workmanship is to his usual high standard and a lot of thought has been given to address the weak points in the Tamiya units. I used to buy 3 or 4 of them at a time cause the universals soon developed slop and the rebuildable ones used to oblong the pin holes very quickly or the blasted pins worked loose and chewed up my front uprights.

They are machined from a spring steel type material, so are much harder than the Tamiya ones. The axles are hollow for lightness. The cross pin has 2 set screws and the pin itself is slightly smaller in diameter where the the set screw seats so that if the screw loosens a bit, it won't work loose and chew up your front uprights. The yoke itself is thicker so it shouldn't develop slop nearly as quickly as the Tamiya units plus it is made from a harder steel. The axles themselves are slightly longer so you can run spacers to widen the tread and still have enough thread for the wheel retainer nylocks. I have a set of the prototype units and will see if I can break them tomorrow. Just from examining them, they should hold up just fine and they are very smooth in operation. I'll post the results tomorrow.

The best part is the pricing which is less than the Tamiya units. No they are not TCS legal, but it's only a 10 min job to switch them. I'm planning on using these all year and just use the Tamiya ones for the TCS races.

Last edited by Granpa; 12-17-2011 at 10:10 PM. Reason: correcton
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Old 12-17-2011, 10:57 PM   #16271
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Tamiyas M Four has hit the HK shops, with a price that is still pretty high, but not as bad as it first looked.



By the way, it's also hit the rc-mini workshop, and our full review will be up soonish...with xmas in the way it might take a bit longer than usual..
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:07 AM   #16272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Off topic, but thought all Mini enthusiasts would be interested in this cause it addresses a weak point in all Minis. Steve from R1 Wurks brought by some CVD units that were incredible. Workmanship is to his usual high standard and a lot of thought has been given to address the weak points in the Tamiya units. I used to buy 3 or 4 of them at a time cause the universals soon developed slop and the rebuildable ones used to oblong the pin holes very quickly or the blasted pins worked loose and chewed up my front uprights.

They are machined from a spring steel type material, so are much harder than the Tamiya ones. The axles are hollow for lightness. The cross pin has 2 set screws and the pin itself is slightly smaller in diameter where the the set screw seats so that if the screw loosens a bit, it won't work loose and chew up your front uprights. The yoke itself is thicker so it shouldn't develop slop nearly as quickly as the Tamiya units plus it is made from a harder steel. The axles themselves are slightly longer so you can run spacers to widen the tread and still have enough thread for the wheel retainer nylocks. I have a set of the prototype units and will see if I can break them tomorrow. Just from examining them, they should hold up just fine and they are very smooth in operation. I'll post the results tomorrow.

The best part is the pricing which is less than the Tamiya units. No they are not TCS legal, but it's only a 10 min job to switch them. I'm planning on using these all year and just use the Tamiya ones for the TCS races.
Granpa

I have never had any issue with using the 3 Racing universals instead of the tamiya versions. They are both reliable and cheap. And now 3 Racing has released a sleeve for their universals which slips over the outside and eliminates the need to use a grub screw to lock the pin in place
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:20 AM   #16273
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Granpa

I have never had any issue with using the 3 Racing universals instead of the tamiya versions. They are both reliable and cheap. And now 3 Racing has released a sleeve for their universals which slips over the outside and eliminates the need to use a grub screw to lock the pin in place

id have to agree, im using a set of the 3racing unis in my velo mini doing 80+ km/h and they haven't failed yet
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Old 12-18-2011, 01:47 AM   #16274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post

The way I see it is that a cap is like a spring, but for voltage. As the car slows approaching a corner, for example, energy gets put in (compression) and at some point the cap has to release the voltage (decompression). I'm mainly concerned about whether or not it's controlled or if the car just launch on me.

Jim
the cap stores engery. So does the Batt
the batt stores much more energy than the caps
if the cap worked as people seem to think, the esc would ALLWAYS draw engery from the cap 1st, making it worthless.

as far as the esc is concerned, it will ALLWAYS draw the most energy from whatever has the lowest resistance(reactance) , the keeping cap & batt voltages more or less the same , allways.

Just my theory..
the batts a constant(sorta) DC voltage source, not an AC source where caps are used to smooth out ripple from voltage drops from + to 0 to -
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:43 AM   #16275
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Well, never got that far today. Made a mistake I haven't made for a very long time, if ever - I soldered a Dean's plug on backwards. There were two tiny mushroom clouds atop my desk this afternoon. One from a shiny new TEU-101BK ESC and the other from a Spektrum SR3100 receiver. Oops.

Don't solder when you're so tired you can't see, kids.

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