Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Elite
iTrader: (72)
sort of a stupid question, but do they come in clear, and if they do, where would be the cheapest place to buy it?
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
They're all clear. Tamiya is the only one making medium wheelbase bodies. Here's a link because you've got to do some of the homework on your own. Go through each of the listings and if they say 225mm wheelbase or medium or m03m or something like that, you're in the ballpark. This is probably the cheapest place to get them, minus shipping.
EDIT: My bad. Ride, Speedway Pal and Shun are also doing medium wheelbase shells. I'm surprised.
EDIT: My bad. Ride, Speedway Pal and Shun are also doing medium wheelbase shells. I'm surprised.
Tech Apprentice
There's also Team Blue Groove but their ebay store is down right now.
Also ABC Hobby.
Also ABC Hobby.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (72)
thanks guys, I think im just gonna get another swift body, if like it
monkeyracing...
its cool.. i actually get that alot on here... thank you for the help and advise. The track i am running on is a 60x40 carpet track with almost all 180 and as the year progesses there wont be a striaght at all..
A long time ago we had the same class but hey didnt have the m-05 carit was the older one and a good friend of mind (RIP) pretty much hadthe best cooper i ever seen.. he ran about 4 or 5 oz of lead in the front lp tires and widen the car, plus we cut his stock springs i think a coil or 2 forget but car had no body roll or did it traction roll...
what the diff between the 2 kits?
and are the stock spring the sam i know they were silver..
also can someone explain the effects of the swaybars on a fwd car
its cool.. i actually get that alot on here... thank you for the help and advise. The track i am running on is a 60x40 carpet track with almost all 180 and as the year progesses there wont be a striaght at all..
A long time ago we had the same class but hey didnt have the m-05 carit was the older one and a good friend of mind (RIP) pretty much hadthe best cooper i ever seen.. he ran about 4 or 5 oz of lead in the front lp tires and widen the car, plus we cut his stock springs i think a coil or 2 forget but car had no body roll or did it traction roll...
what the diff between the 2 kits?
and are the stock spring the sam i know they were silver..
also can someone explain the effects of the swaybars on a fwd car
Well, in that case, I suppose all you can really do is look for places to gain efficiency. Keep the gears dry or use a tiny squirt of spray silicone on them. Be sure the bearings are super clean, with only a single drop of light oil in them. Run the suspension and alignment as low and as neutral as you can get away with to gain a little speed. Then tweak to suit your driving style. RC-MINI.NET is the absolute gospel of minis. As far as making the car lighter, that may not be the best idea, depending on your track. Some have found minis like a little junk in the trunk to help them stick.
My apologies if I offended with the snappy comment on grammar, etc. I was cranky.
Jim
My apologies if I offended with the snappy comment on grammar, etc. I was cranky.
Jim
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
Thanks for the shock options everyone
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
The main difference between the 3 and 5 is complexity. The 3 uses a simple direct steering linkage, where the 5 has a more complicated bellcrank mechanism. The whole point of that was to lower the CoG (and to sell us more goodies.) The cars share a lot of parts, including drivetrain, suspension, wheel carriers, etc.
Silver springs are way too long. Find a short set.
I'm no expert on anti-roll bars. You'll need a bigger nerd than me for that one. As far as I know, they generally work the same as on a rear drive car and can be used to reduce roll and to some extent grip at the end they're installed on.
Tech Initiate
I got a chance to get my M05 to the track to try it out today, and I have a few concerns with it. Now, this is coming from someone that has no previous experience racing indoors on carpet, or any experience driving these cars either, i'm just getting into it.
My car is an M05 pro, and I'm running the S grip radials on all four corners. They use Jack the gripper traction compound, so I bought a can of it and applied it to the tires.
The handling of the car seemed to be very inconsistant. The first couple of laps I would do, the car will push, but then it starts handling pretty nice. And for quite a few laps I can pretty much keep the throttle pinned, and it handles great. Then it starts to come un-glued and the back end starts to kick out, especially on low speed corners. Am I over driving the car and making the tires greasy? i also wasn't prepared for how messy it was going to be running the traction compound, just touching the tires after a run and my hands are black, and it seems to get all over everything too! What a pain!
My next question is about the servo saver. Sometimes I will tap the boards and the car will start to feel twitchy and steer really weird, so I bring it over and find the servo saver has come apart, so i have to go and take it apart, re-align the tab and push it back together. This happened quite a few times and started to really get annoying. Should i just put a Kimbrough style servo saver on it? Or is there something I can do to this one to keep it from doing this? thanks
Jon
My car is an M05 pro, and I'm running the S grip radials on all four corners. They use Jack the gripper traction compound, so I bought a can of it and applied it to the tires.
The handling of the car seemed to be very inconsistant. The first couple of laps I would do, the car will push, but then it starts handling pretty nice. And for quite a few laps I can pretty much keep the throttle pinned, and it handles great. Then it starts to come un-glued and the back end starts to kick out, especially on low speed corners. Am I over driving the car and making the tires greasy? i also wasn't prepared for how messy it was going to be running the traction compound, just touching the tires after a run and my hands are black, and it seems to get all over everything too! What a pain!
My next question is about the servo saver. Sometimes I will tap the boards and the car will start to feel twitchy and steer really weird, so I bring it over and find the servo saver has come apart, so i have to go and take it apart, re-align the tab and push it back together. This happened quite a few times and started to really get annoying. Should i just put a Kimbrough style servo saver on it? Or is there something I can do to this one to keep it from doing this? thanks
Jon
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Try softer springs and/or tires on the rear. Wipe the excess compound off the tires before you place on the track. Ditch the Tamiya servo saver for something better.
That should get you going in the right direction.
Jim
That should get you going in the right direction.
Jim
Tech Champion
iTrader: (48)
Gettin' ready for the indoor season on the rug!! Decided to go with Ole' Reliable. I was looking for light buckets but could not find them so I decided to go with a little tint. I will post better pics tomorrow. Waiting on a Tamiya tuner kit to finish up some detail. Enjoy.
Last edited by gashuffer; 09-20-2011 at 09:24 PM.
Tech Initiate
Jon
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Sorry about the really short answer earlier. Was sipping a coffee and typing on my phone.
The thing about the traction compound (Jack, Sticky Fingers, SXT) is that it's essentially camping stove fuel/naptha/an oil product, so it's going to make your tires slimy for the first few laps and mess up the track, too. Your track probably has a rule regarding wiping tires down before you place them down. If it doesn't, suggest it. This stuff won't help lay down a groove, it'll just make the track nasty. (sounds like it may be too late!)
If you wipe the tires down, they'll warm up and gain traction a little sooner and won't pick up so much crap. They'll also feel more consistent through your run, especially when combined with a planted back end.
For the servo saver, I'd suggest one made by Kimbrough. They're damn near bombproof and will last much longer than the wonky, random L/R Tamiya ones. You may have to drill your own hole in it for the ball stud, but it's worthwhile. I'd suggest the large or x-large heavy duty model.
I hope this helps you out.
Jim
The thing about the traction compound (Jack, Sticky Fingers, SXT) is that it's essentially camping stove fuel/naptha/an oil product, so it's going to make your tires slimy for the first few laps and mess up the track, too. Your track probably has a rule regarding wiping tires down before you place them down. If it doesn't, suggest it. This stuff won't help lay down a groove, it'll just make the track nasty. (sounds like it may be too late!)
If you wipe the tires down, they'll warm up and gain traction a little sooner and won't pick up so much crap. They'll also feel more consistent through your run, especially when combined with a planted back end.
For the servo saver, I'd suggest one made by Kimbrough. They're damn near bombproof and will last much longer than the wonky, random L/R Tamiya ones. You may have to drill your own hole in it for the ball stud, but it's worthwhile. I'd suggest the large or x-large heavy duty model.
I hope this helps you out.
Jim
Tech Addict
Is there a oil diff to the M03?
Im running a spool now but i need a little bit slip. NB: Its not for a M03 its for a TL-01
Im running a spool now but i need a little bit slip. NB: Its not for a M03 its for a TL-01
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
Speaking of oil diffs....no, I don't believe there is one that will fit the M-03.
I was messing around with my car on the bench tonight and discovered that the 3Racing oil filled gear diff was actually causing binding. I don't know how, but the outdrives were actually skewed a little, on both sides. I tore it down and found nothing wrong at all inside. I rebuilt it very carefully and found the same problem. I've never even run the thing on a track, btw.
The ball diff is back in!
Jim
I was messing around with my car on the bench tonight and discovered that the 3Racing oil filled gear diff was actually causing binding. I don't know how, but the outdrives were actually skewed a little, on both sides. I tore it down and found nothing wrong at all inside. I rebuilt it very carefully and found the same problem. I've never even run the thing on a track, btw.
The ball diff is back in!
Jim
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
Speaking of oil diffs....no, I don't believe there is one that will fit the M-03.
I was messing around with my car on the bench tonight and discovered that the 3Racing oil filled gear diff was actually causing binding. I don't know how, but the outdrives were actually skewed a little, on both sides. I tore it down and found nothing wrong at all inside. I rebuilt it very carefully and found the same problem. I've never even run the thing on a track, btw.
The ball diff is back in!
Jim
I was messing around with my car on the bench tonight and discovered that the 3Racing oil filled gear diff was actually causing binding. I don't know how, but the outdrives were actually skewed a little, on both sides. I tore it down and found nothing wrong at all inside. I rebuilt it very carefully and found the same problem. I've never even run the thing on a track, btw.
The ball diff is back in!
Jim
Very strange ... have sold heaps of these and none have had any binding issues whatsoever