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Old 09-13-2011, 02:10 AM   #15646
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Shoe Goo works great, especially if you lay down a strip of fiberglass drywall tape first and sort of laminate it in place. Makes your car darn near indestructible.

Jim
Never heard that before. I will use that one
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Old 09-13-2011, 02:45 AM   #15647
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The Tamiya Swift.
Standard weight Tamiya bodies seem a lot tougher than the lightweight versions also.

I haven't run the Spice diff (didn't realise it was available yet), but I am very impressed with the 3Racing diff.
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:01 AM   #15648
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Originally Posted by notch johnson View Post
I want to try a VW bug body... those look sweet... but will it work on my m05?
sure. a friend of mine used it!
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:13 AM   #15649
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Check after each run?? its a M-Chassis.. thats to much work for an M-Chassis..

Unless your RBR or Caltek1 .. lol
Gotta fill in time while waiting for the battery to charge , since there's nothing else to do !!
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:24 AM   #15650
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Hello Jason,

I have found out the hard way, that if you don't check the car occassionally, then you will not finish the race.

I check the following only on my mini after every run:

1. universals to ensure the pin has not moved or the holes ovaled.

2. Shocks have not been pushed back on the ball stud.

3. Rims have not been bent and the tyres are still attached to the rim.

4. Screws are tight and that the front top a -arm screw has not come out. On a MO3 this is crucial.

5. With oil gear diff I also check the blades, I don't want to destroy the diff outdrive.

6. At a new track I will check the bottom of the chassis to ensure the ride height is acceptable and observe what the car is doing on the track. Obviously if I change the front tyres from 55mm diameter to 60mm then I will drop the ride height.

Thats about it. Not as much tinkering as a TC, always checking camber, ride height, droop etc.

Anyway thats my response. Not as anal as you might think, only gets a rebuild before a big event.

Later,

Calvin.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:32 AM   #15651
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http://thercracer.blogspot.com/

Tamiya TA05 in M size.

Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:34 AM   #15652
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Talking

Lol, some people have called me " Calvin " in the last six months, not sure what that meant.....................

Must mean that i'm faster than a certain J.Warren ........

Quote:
Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Hello Jason,

I have found out the hard way, that if you don't check the car occassionally, then you will not finish the race.

I check the following only on my mini after every run:

1. universals to ensure the pin has not moved or the holes ovaled.

2. Shocks have not been pushed back on the ball stud.

3. Rims have not been bent and the tyres are still attached to the rim.

4. Screws are tight and that the front top a -arm screw has not come out. On a MO3 this is crucial.

5. With oil gear diff I also check the blades, I don't want to destroy the diff outdrive.

6. At a new track I will check the bottom of the chassis to ensure the ride height is acceptable and observe what the car is doing on the track. Obviously if I change the front tyres from 55mm diameter to 60mm then I will drop the ride height.

Thats about it. Not as much tinkering as a TC, always checking camber, ride height, droop etc.

Anyway thats my response. Not as anal as you might think, only gets a rebuild before a big event.

Later,

Calvin.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:40 AM   #15653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler205 View Post
http://thercracer.blogspot.com/

Tamiya TA05 in M size.

Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.
Very interesting.

Not sure a proper FWD version would offer much that the M-05 doesn't already since the TA05-M is using the existing M-chassis suspension parts.

I'm more interested to see whether this is the catalyst for Tamiya's entry into the 4wd mini market with a normal-release, which could bring this class to life.

Also intriguing to see the 380 motor in there. Perhaps 380 is the way M-chassis cars need to go to keep the slow-cars-good-racing philosophy going in the brushless/Lipo age.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:42 AM   #15654
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380 with an LiFE pack would help with packaging issues in the chassis but 6.6v on a 380 motor might make it hard to put the power down.

Anyone wanna try one to find out? Just need a 380 to 540 adaptor plate....
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:48 AM   #15655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Shoe Goo works great, especially if you lay down a strip of fiberglass drywall tape first and sort of laminate it in place. Makes your car darn near indestructible.

Jim
Good tip. I'm about 15g underweight, struggling to find a nice spot to put some lead. I could probably get 15g in Tape and Goo and protect the body as well!
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:51 AM   #15656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notch johnson View Post
I want to try a VW bug body... those look sweet... but will it work on my m05?
Not sure what brand it was, but I saw one - looked awesome, but the body sides were hard up against the battery holder, so if you're running normal packs with the wires out the end they will push out the body making it look crap. Corally plugs out the top - no probs!
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:51 AM   #15657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Butler205 View Post
http://thercracer.blogspot.com/

Tamiya TA05 in M size.

Shame its a limited release. Would love to see a proper FWD version on general release.
Interesting idea. I already have the TN Racing TA05/M03 4WD mini conversion. It uses the front and rear diffs from a TA05 and the suspension from an M03.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:52 AM   #15658
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Are the blades for a mini anything special? Or are all blades generic?
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:56 AM   #15659
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53890, same as on the 415, 416 and 417.
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:45 AM   #15660
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Originally Posted by academygaz View Post
6.6v on a 380 motor might make it hard to put the power down.
no offence but were you being sarcastic or serious? as you dont get that much power out of a 380 size motor and running on 6.6volts would be event less grunt.
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