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Old 08-31-2011, 03:27 PM   #15586
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I decided to try the mini class of racing, found this M05 pro for sale locally. It came with pretty much every single upgrade Tamiya makes, plus alot of extra tires, used and brand new, a new unpainted Fiat Abarth body, ESC, servo, extra motors, lots of spare parts!







It also came with an extra ball diff, is this a TA03 ball differential?


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Old 08-31-2011, 04:21 PM   #15587
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It appears to be the TA03 diff with hardened outdrives. Good stuff!
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Old 09-01-2011, 01:06 AM   #15588
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Originally Posted by evilancer View Post
I decided to try the mini class of racing, found this M05 pro for sale locally. It came with pretty much every single upgrade Tamiya makes, plus alot of extra tires, used and brand new, a new unpainted Fiat Abarth body, ESC, servo, extra motors, lots of spare parts!
I can see a few upgrades you don't have......
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Old 09-01-2011, 06:50 PM   #15589
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Whoooo! BL mini is here! In case you're wondering about why we spec'd 2200kv instead of 3300kv, the following quote applies "When a mini is running within a second a lap of touring stock, we have a problem." The hotted up silver cans were running in that neighbourhood.

We run shorter tracks, indoors, on carpet and we're tryng to make the class entry level again. The HW 13T was way too much motor for our needs.

Anyway, enjoy some RC porn!



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Old 09-01-2011, 07:07 PM   #15590
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that's great to hear, you wouldn't mind sharing chassis setup? (by the way nice to know other people race an MO6)
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Old 09-01-2011, 08:28 PM   #15591
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Chassis is set up pretty much per instructions, with kit tires on front and S grips on back. Using the 54000 dampers with 35wt all around. Rear set to 54mm, fronts 55-56mm. I do have the front upright that allows the dampers to be stood up as well.

All the alloy bits are more for durability than anything else. It's a rough class!
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:17 PM   #15592
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Gotta love using a $100 Soldering Iron for a $90 complete brushless setup. I can't wait for the weekend. I wish it was Sunday right now.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:24 PM   #15593
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Whoooo! BL mini is here! In case you're wondering about why we spec'd 2200kv instead of 3300kv, the following quote applies "When a mini is running within a second a lap of touring stock, we have a problem." The hotted up silver cans were running in that neighbourhood.

We run shorter tracks, indoors, on carpet and we're tryng to make the class entry level again. The HW 13T was way too much motor for our needs.

Anyway, enjoy some RC porn!



The point you miss with the HW 13T (3000kv) motor is that it is a 380 size motor and with the Tamiya maximum 20t pinion setup it is not that fast

Enjoy your choice. BL Mini racing is good

I hope ORCA continue to support the motor in the future.
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Old 09-01-2011, 10:55 PM   #15594
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So what kind of speeds are you getting out of your HW 13t BL setup? I also race on a small, indoor, carpet track and I don't want it to go to much faster than a good silver can.
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:02 PM   #15595
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My new shell.

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Old 09-01-2011, 11:14 PM   #15596
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So what kind of speeds are you getting out of your HW 13t BL setup? I also race on a small, indoor, carpet track and I don't want it to go to much faster than a good silver can.
The HW 13T is equivalent to either a really good silver can, or about the same as a black can. The primary difference would be torque, lots of torque. Pretty dang zippy and really good bang for the buck.
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Old 09-01-2011, 11:30 PM   #15597
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Do anyone have the hard cup joint part number for TA03 diff? It this the part number #53217?
Please let me know,TQ.

J
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:02 AM   #15598
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Who has some setup tips and what mods you did. TCS mod tips which work or what setups are popular. More concerned on M03 or M04.
After you have thrown out the standard tyres, motor, battery, springs, plastic steering gear. This is what you need. I have won a few races and bee second, third many times. Lipo battery, brushless motor & speedy, blue springs front, red rear. Long wheel base is better for longer tracks. Tyres front are Ride 3035 with hard insert. Rear are Ride 3020 (cool days, Cross on hot days. Ride height 1-2mm off ground. Toe in 1.5mm rear and toe out on front by a few mm. Use hop up aluminium parts wherever you can afford. Good luck, I've given up so if you are interested, I am selling mine (0407225064)
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Old 09-02-2011, 04:09 AM   #15599
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Do anyone have the hard cup joint part number for TA03 diff? It this the part number #53217?
Please let me know,TQ.

J
yup, I'm running those. Compatible with TA03 and Manta Ray ball diff.
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Old 09-02-2011, 12:35 PM   #15600
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Default noob question...

Being new to mini's I am not sure what parts cross over from one chassis to anther. So my question is what rear hub carrier's will fit on a MO6? I bent one of mine this morning while practicing.

Also how strong are the rear arms on the mini's/Mo6, I know the the force of impact will go some where on this chassis, would getting aluminum hub carriers just cause some thing else to break that would take longer to fix/repair?
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