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Old 08-29-2011, 02:21 AM   #15556
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2 orings is as far as you can go. I had 3~4 pieces before and after 3 packs (crashes included ), the oring somehow lost a little bit of its elasticity and stretched causing unequal shock length. Plastic spacers are the way to go
Yeah you need to use a bit rubber or plastic pipe/tube small enough to fit in the shock body but big enough to go over the o rings and then a little bit of oil to help it keep moving I take it you have the standard friction shocks after all that. Lol
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Old 08-29-2011, 05:49 AM   #15557
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Nways, something I did when I was bored. A final drivee ratio for the M05

Spur Pinion FDR

Stock Gear
37 20 5.79605
37 18 6.440055556
37 16 7.2450625

3Racing Fast Gear
35 18 6.091944444
35 20 5.48275
35 22 4.984318182

3Racing Fast Gear
33 20 5.16945
33 22 4.6995
33 24 4.307875
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:52 AM   #15558
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Looking for a little help....

Our club has just started a new spec touring class. We started using silver cans and spec gearing. It has been a little crazy with how silvercans differ in performance.

I know many of you run the hobbywing 35a esc and 13t motor in you minis.

I was wondering if that system would have enough power to push our touring cars to a decent spend. We are looking for a speed a little faster than a good silver can.

Thanks for any advice you can give us.

Chris
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:16 AM   #15559
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Looking for a little help....

Our club has just started a new spec touring class. We started using silver cans and spec gearing. It has been a little crazy with how silvercans differ in performance.

I know many of you run the hobbywing 35a esc and 13t motor in you minis.

I was wondering if that system would have enough power to push our touring cars to a decent spend. We are looking for a speed a little faster than a good silver can.

Thanks for any advice you can give us.

Chris
Swap over to the juststock 45amp thread. Thats the one for tc and only a bit more expensive.
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:22 AM   #15560
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A HW 13t will be quite a bit faster than a silver can. An equivalent BL System would be 17.5t-21.5t. Another way to put it, is that if you wanted to equal a silver can, then a motor running 2200kv to 2300kv would be right in the neighborhood. As a bonus, you get loads more torque.
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:29 AM   #15561
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Thanks for the info....
We are trying to start a class that is in between stock 17.5 and novice TT01. We have a decent group of novice racers, but most are not ready for competitive racing in 17.5.

Sorry to post this in the mini forum but I know a lot are in Australia and run the 13t 35a systems in their minis.

We can get the HB 35A esc with 13t motor and programing card for around $60. I hear you guys have run these things for years without major problems.

Thanks
Chris
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:13 PM   #15562
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Chris, the reason the 13T H/W system is so successful in the Minis is because of the restricted gearing. The motors only barely touch a small part of their potential.
We've run these systems in 4WD Minis with open gearing and they are VERY fast. And thats the problem you'd strike. I'm talking 13.5/10.5 Touring Car fast....
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:46 PM   #15563
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Thats what I was afraid of. Was hoping the 35a esc would limit some of the speed. I guess if we decide to use the HW system we will have to spec the gearing.


Thanks for everyone help,
Chris
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:51 PM   #15564
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If you are looking for a brushless system suitable for Mini one rule is critical...

Gear ratio.

If you have fixed the ratio at the Tamiya kit 5.8:1, then you can get away with a relatively high-revving motor. You won't come close to exploiting its power and any cogging-related issues that you can find with sensorless systems are less likely to appear.

If you run open gearing, then you will make the cars much faster than they need to be. So you need to find a much less powerful motor.
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Old 08-29-2011, 03:02 PM   #15565
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Just as a suggestion - We're about to start running a new product made by Orca. It's an Orca Q Spark 2200kv combo, with a sensorless motor, very similar to the Hobbywing. It's so new that it hasn't even hit the website yet.

The pricing is pretty good and it should be more readily available within a few months. Click the Orca link in my signature for contact info.

(No, I'm not paid or sponsored by Orca in any way. I'm paying just as much as everyone else for their gear.)
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:50 PM   #15566
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Just as a suggestion - We're about to start running a new product made by Orca. It's an Orca Q Spark 2200kv combo, with a sensorless motor, very similar to the Hobbywing. It's so new that it hasn't even hit the website yet.

The pricing is pretty good and it should be more readily available within a few months. Click the Orca link in my signature for contact info.

(No, I'm not paid or sponsored by Orca in any way. I'm paying just as much as everyone else for their gear.)
their website rarely tells anything.
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:45 PM   #15567
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Yeah, the website is bloody awful, but there is a contact link. (I think)
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Old 08-29-2011, 10:44 PM   #15568
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Questions??

Does anyone know of a link or part number for the plasic oil filled shocks for the M-05?
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Old 08-30-2011, 05:28 AM   #15569
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Tamiya (#50746) C.V.A. Super Mini Shock Unit Set
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:15 AM   #15570
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thinking about building extra shocks, but I'm sticking to the clear plastic version. Can't seem to find the shock shafts part number, Any help?

So far I managed to locate these. THanks in advance!

Tamiya (#84225) Super Mini Cylinder Clear Blue
Tamiya (#50597) Damper O-Ring(RD) *I prefer these to the clear ones*
Tamiya (#50600) C.V.A Mini Shock Unit II Oil Seal
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