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Old 06-03-2011, 04:08 PM   #15061
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Kail,

I have not noticed any fade in the BL motor or ESC, even after 10 minutes of racing. The only fade is the battery when it slows before Lipo cutoff.

Can you set punch and timing on your BL system? If so max out both and you will find the car faster.

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Old 06-03-2011, 04:31 PM   #15062
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Originally Posted by Kail View Post
Hi Tony, hows mini racing in Australia? This year in Singapore, with the introduction of Tamiya brushless motor, the racing has been much more fun. My mate took a video of one of the recent races.

Somehow, I feel my car's top end to be lacking quite a bit though motor and batteries used are the same as my pals. Ever experienced fades in brushless motors?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toGetoStdKg
Ahh the return of the man, how are you my friend!

Looking at that video it looks like your cars are now a similar speed to ours, and that's a good thing.
I'm with Cal, we've never experienced any sort of fade or degradation in our brushless motors ever. We're still running our original tests samples from 3 years back!
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Old 06-03-2011, 04:41 PM   #15063
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While we're on the subject of things fading guys, maybe you could provide me with some knowledge. I know voltage drop in lipos follows a different curve than that found in nimh batteries, but it's still there. While I was testing motors a few weeks back, I tested using batteries that were fully charged to 8.4v and batteries that were run down to 7.4v. The KV (rpm/volt) on the motor remained dead on; it was always the same, but maximum rpms dropped relative to voltage. This tells me that during the course of a 5-8 minute race, my car is continually losing top speed.

How do you deal with this? Run the highest capacity battery allowable? I'd hate to see the start of another battery war.

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Old 06-03-2011, 05:39 PM   #15064
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Default Intellect Lipo 50c 3800mAh

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i'll see your 50 & raise you to 65
Im not gonna say 65c is needed....... ....its only a 250A rating (in theory)
I do have silly motors in my m-chassis's , still dont need 65c .
I know someone who just bought 2 65c's (they were among the cheapest available locally). Will be able to compare to my 25C
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Where is this battery available? Thanks
www.rcmart.com
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Old 06-03-2011, 06:14 PM   #15065
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Originally Posted by caltek1 View Post
Kail,

I have not noticed any fade in the BL motor or ESC, even after 10 minutes of racing. The only fade is the battery when it slows before Lipo cutoff.

Can you set punch and timing on your BL system? If so max out both and you will find the car faster.

Calvin.
Hi Caltek,

We are using the standard Tamiya TBLE brushless system. No timing or punch available

I just notice that my long straight speed is not as fast as quite a few guys in the main. I am quite confident my car has very good efficiency and the thing is I am using the same motor and battery as those guys.

The fade I was wondering is with regards to fade after multiple use. I just hope I can do something to cut the disadvantage that I have on the long straight haha.

Joel, my friends are really fast this season and I have just been lucky to win. I really had to drive very hard. Haha! See you in Singapore in Sep/Oct for TAC finals!

Wow Tony, those brushless systems sure do last for you. We have some minor issues with cogging though.
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Old 06-03-2011, 06:36 PM   #15066
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Hi Kail,

What batteries are you using? Charge them 10amps!

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Old 06-03-2011, 06:38 PM   #15067
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I am using the IP 3800mah 50C as mentioned by those guys. I was charging at 6A haha. I am sure my mates are only charging them at 4A.
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:56 PM   #15068
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Hi Kail,

What batteries are you using? Charge them 10amps!

I could be a little behind the times here, but my understanding was there is no real performance advantage to charging at higher amp rates. While this may have been true for nimh and nicad cells, my understanding was the only advantage was shorter charging times at the expense of diminished battery life.

Hard to question Joel as he's usually pretty accurate.
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Old 06-03-2011, 09:19 PM   #15069
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Hi Granpa,

Was just kidding with Kail. I also charge at 1C.

But if you ask the TC guys, 15amps. From Jilles G (TRF driver):

Honestly I do believe you can charge the Lipo till 20A easy without damage the Lipo. Ofcourse lower rate will have more lifetime, but then you need to buy some new ones anyway as Lipo's improve all the time. I charge 15A while running both stock and modified.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:07 PM   #15070
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I use a velcro strap around the battery and battery holder which stops the wires from pushing out on the body and giving that unsightly look.

I know Feral batteries has/had them in Australia.

Later,

Calvin.
Thanks for the tip. Cannon is out of the battery.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:10 PM   #15071
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Can't find this particular battery at Rcmart.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:54 PM   #15072
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Can't find this particular battery at Rcmart.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bat...e-p-32721.html

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-bat...d-p-31506.html
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Old 06-04-2011, 02:29 AM   #15073
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Thanks! Searching with "lipo" doesn't show it.
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Old 06-04-2011, 06:08 AM   #15074
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Kail,

I am still running my original HW BL system and motor from three years ago also and the car is reasonably competitive. Its such a shame the driver doesn't always do it justice. Have you tried another motor to see if the motor was made on a Sunday and not on a Monday when the workers are fresh and build to a tighter tolerance.

I use the IP4200 40C batteries as do most of the other mini drivers, so there is no advantage to anyone. Although a new battery is generally faster than a year old battery, as keeps higher voltage for longer.

Jim,

I think the above comment answers your question. Yes others will buy fresh batteries regularly to be fast.

Later,

Calvin.
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Old 06-05-2011, 01:00 PM   #15075
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I bought a "like new" M-03 on ebay. Came with everything pictured but the RX, ESC and battery. I raced it last week at RCAR Indy.

I learned that "everyone" uses aluminum steering blocks, so I will get those. Other immediate suggestions for hop ups? It was fun to race! But, the guys with the M-05's and M-06's were faster. No question.

I had fun painting two bodies for it too using Faskolor paints and my airbrush. The Honda Civic R from HPI and HPI's Scion body. The Scion is key lime green with an undercoat of neon green, then white. It really pops!
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya mini cooper-chassism-03-001r.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-hondacivicr-001r.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-hondacivicr-002r.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-scionxb-001r.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-scionxb-003r.jpg  

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