seaball

iTrader: (9)

it shouldn't change significantly. of course it will change your steering speed if all else remains constant. but good servos are plenty fast even with this reduction. another alternative to get back the quickness, is to use a longer servo horn, space permitted. oh, and by the way synapse, nice ride. that's a great pic. makes me wonder why i spent all those hours polishing. and well done at the track. i'm sure i'd get that turn in i want with a oneway somewhere. but first i'm trying the antidive front mount position. we'll see.

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

Can I suggest some thick servo tape (one side only removed) attatched to the underside of the battery strap, this stops batteries moving around.
I have a problem with driving ability and my type T spends more time in the air or on its roof/side etc and I have yet to have batteries come out.

also with the CVD pins coming out can I suggest a small dab of CA on both ends of the pin just to stop the sideways movement.

Lastly- wheel wobble......if you cast your minds back to the streetweapon that had much the same problem on full lock. The advice at that time was to dial out some steering on transmitter as you will never need full lock anyway, we race on asphalt with rubber tires and if you give too much lock the wheel is scrabbling and thus losing traction, we run KO Mars TX's and have the steering rate throw set at 50 or 60 this allows us to carry a hell of a lot of mid corner speed as we are not scrubbing off all that much.

Hope this helps but feel free to correct me if someone knows something different

TYPE T ROCKS

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tried drilling droop screws yet, if so any advice?

seaball

iTrader: (9)

yo cherry, the droops are a breeze to drill. use a drill press if you have one, but a dremel will work as well. they don't have to be dead straight, but it will help maintain strength if they are centered as best as possible so that there is equal amounts of material surrounding the hole. i used a 7/64 bit and a 3mm set screw. i actually tapped out the upper part of the hole so that it starts easily, and so that when the screw is fully submerged in the plastic it isn't so hard to turn with that tiny hex key wrench. it may be easier to use a 4-40 screw as the hole can be a bit smaller, and they are easy to obtain. just make sure the hole is large enough so that the friction is not so high that it won't turn once it sits still. that's about it. i won't have pics for a while as i don't have a pc right now, but just find the thickest part of the arm and go at it. mine are in the rear of the front arms, and the front of the rear arms. that's where they work best i think. in fact, if you check old posts, i bet robk posted some pics of them when he originally did it. i think even my recent pics may accidentally show at least one of them. good luck. it's worth the effort.

Claydoh

Any wear on the chassis from the droop screws? I was talking about doing that and somebody mentioned it.

j0n0

I have drilled holes in the arms and placed droop screws, i have pics but they are on my laptop so when i get it back in a few days i can show you guys

I didn't or havent got any wear on the chassis yet, if the end of the droop screw is sharp or rough i guess it would go at the chassis a bit.

And also does anyone have a really good setup for rubber tires on a large ashphelt track ? This is for the Type T by the way

Thanks

seaball

iTrader: (9)

no chasssis wear from the droops. well, mimimal, which is usual. you can take a dremel and spin the set screws to make a ball end that rides on the chassis if it's really a concern. really though, the wear is negligeable.

as far as asphalt and rubber go....i haven't a clue. i've got a bunch of old setups from the original owner that i may try to find if your having trouble. let me know. it should be pretty standard ei. double one way, kit springs, sensible toe and camber angles to start.

the reversed front hingepin block... was really good on thursday for ozite. i had plenty of bite, both on and off power and adequate turn in. i was happiest with the car this way so far. with the antidive, though, i seemed to get an off power oversteer. reducing droop in front seemed to help, but i still had a bit too much of a discrepancy between constant speed steering and off power steering. i should have tighened my front diff a bit. maybe for sunday if i run the atlas again.

it's getting closer!

HPIRS4GUY

Hi there guys,
Can anybody tell me what (if any) the differences are between the front & rear suspension mounts on the type T. They look identical & all holes seem to line up on the chassis??

Thanks

j0n0

Seaball: what do you mean by reversing the front hingepin block? Do you mean just facing it around the other way and what effect does this have on wheel base and handleing etc.

what shock locations and shock oils do you use at the moment?

I just put into mine: 3 hole pistons all round with 45 weight shock oil, however i am yet to test it. I am using the standard blue springs front and rear anti roll bars, the thin black ones.

synapse79

i clipped a corner with the wheel on a high speed 'S' corner and broke the pin off the dogbone. kinda strane...

anyways, does this package contain all the parts to rebuild a new CVD and axle(swingshaft)? and if so, is it for one or two?
http://secure400.automatedshops.com/...38103352575.80

I was going to just order a new dogbone, but id like to have a spare axle. I was going to install alum dogbones, but besides me clipping corners with the tire turned out, racing has been pretty brutal so im sticking to steel.

im also ordering parts to rebuild the steering. Anybody try the purple alum servo saver? I ordered the new hard servo saver, which i image is what the type T comes with anyways.

Is there a difference between the front and rear swingshafts?

thanks
jason

synapse79

I noticed on the atlas site, that my car has the TS chassis. Only diff i see is the tape slots. I have the purple battery holder on the outside of the chassis, and i actually ran a whole race without a body clip holding the graph battery strap, and the battery never moved. Guys that are having probs, make sure you have ur cell slots ground down enough, that helps hold the cells in better. I had a prob with my 414 til i really ground the slots out and got the cells flush with the bottom of the chassis, this gives a better CG also.

While i have the front end torn apart, i was going to try turning around the castor block. Somebody said they couldnt see the diff in the angle. It is small, its easier to see the difference in material on either end of the block than looking at the angle of the pin. My concern is, the mounting holes are offset. I ran the block all the way back before, when i turn it around should i run it forward to achieve the same wheelbase, due to the offset of the holes.

When i first got the car i moved the spacers on the uprights before i even ran the car. It was setup with the two spacers above the upright. I moved one below the upright to help lower the CG. has anybody else tried this.

The more i run this car, the more i love it. I was thinking about getting the new corally or kawada. But im really getting attached. I think running the motor and battery as inline as possibe should yield the best performance. Somebody was talking about how the car is not perfectly ballanced because the batter is not dead center. Only time i notice this is on the start when i jump on the throttle the car pulls a bit, but not bad. My only real complaint is the dissassembly required to get the diffs out... I really like the suspension, lots of good ideas, car handles great. Its cool to be different too. The car is prooving to be very durable also, which wasnt really something i was intending to prove...

seaball

iTrader: (9)

the hingepin blocks are different forward or rearward in two or three ways, depending on which block. the a block has no toe, but does have kickup of around 2 degrees. reversed it will produce "kickdown" or antidive. it will also shorten your wheelbase, so i'd recommend running it forward. the b block for the rear has the same properties, but also adds inboard toe of around 2 degrees total. don't reverse this block in the rear ever. maybe interesting reversed in the front for an inboard toe out like on the losi car.

i dunno if i like the antidive this geometry results in, but i do like the effects of the more vertical castor angle. but that's just what i thought durring one outing.

synapse79

with my 414 i thought it handled a bit better with antidive, im a bit anxious to see how the ym34t handles with antidive. I would also prefer less caster.

Dont the rear hubs have toe-in built into them?

j0n0

Does anyone have good experiences with foams on an ashphelt track for the Type T ??

Theres this big race coming up and i'd like to get used to foams before the actual race day.

Ko Racer

any of you guys have a good asphalt set up for the atlas Si
all help is welcome.