Atlas YM34 Thread
09-26-2002, 08:46 AM
#271
Gonna miss all the purple on the Type T
Really enjoyed my orginal YM34 Japan Edition, liked the adjustability. I just kept loosing the shims with the front aluminum hub carriers.
I really liked the way this car accelerated out of the corners!
Really like all the mods on the Purple Type T, Looked great anyway, but it must go.
Almost new Type T on ebay, search under Atlas on radio control. Posted for sale as well on RC tech.
Where is the activity in this forum.
I really liked the way this car accelerated out of the corners!
Really like all the mods on the Purple Type T, Looked great anyway, but it must go.
Almost new Type T on ebay, search under Atlas on radio control. Posted for sale as well on RC tech.
Where is the activity in this forum.
09-26-2002, 09:03 AM
#272
Hi all
I own Type T, so far I'm frustated with this car , it's vibrating front tires when making turn.
Does any body suffering same as my problem ?
How to fix it? Please
regards
I own Type T, so far I'm frustated with this car , it's vibrating front tires when making turn.
Does any body suffering same as my problem ?
How to fix it? Please
regards
09-28-2002, 08:26 AM
#273
Tech Rookie
v12xc
when i bought my ym34 i got same problem too. but it dont take long, i tryed to put a silicon tube. wich is cut by 1mm and put it in the outdrive.and it solved my problem.
when i bought my ym34 i got same problem too. but it dont take long, i tryed to put a silicon tube. wich is cut by 1mm and put it in the outdrive.and it solved my problem.
09-29-2002, 09:25 PM
#274
Thank's shorter...
What if I'm using "o-ring" instead silicon tube...
r u using both ??..
What if I'm using "o-ring" instead silicon tube...
r u using both ??..
10-01-2002, 08:52 AM
#275
Tech Rookie
v12xc
I tried 2 orings each side before (4 o rings total). But its too tight. thats why i cut fuel tubing with desired thickness. Another problem im sure u will encounter is the Wheel shaft. you must secure the grub screw that holds the small shaft that connects the dog bone to the wheel shaft. if possible put a strong glue to the grub screw. u will not notice this whwen ur car is running. the pair of holes will get bigger untill u can tuse it anymore. especially here in our place where in parts are scarce.
It happened to me before, what i did is i drilled two pairs of holes criscross. Untill now im still using it "less weight".
I tried 2 orings each side before (4 o rings total). But its too tight. thats why i cut fuel tubing with desired thickness. Another problem im sure u will encounter is the Wheel shaft. you must secure the grub screw that holds the small shaft that connects the dog bone to the wheel shaft. if possible put a strong glue to the grub screw. u will not notice this whwen ur car is running. the pair of holes will get bigger untill u can tuse it anymore. especially here in our place where in parts are scarce.
It happened to me before, what i did is i drilled two pairs of holes criscross. Untill now im still using it "less weight".
10-02-2002, 07:42 PM
#276
Originally posted by robk
wow, this thread is out of date! Anyway, Has anyone been testing on asphalt? My first time out was a total mess, but I think i'm getting it together now. My car is working pretty decent. If anyone can give any ideas on what to try let me know.
BTW, i asked Arthur from Integy for some general setup help. He sent me the following, which was very helpful.
***The dark blue springs comes with the car works good, we run 6.5mm:F and 7mm:R ride height. [lower ride height would cause the car to bottom out] Shock oil 20 to 25 for more steering. 40 weight for less steering. Front inner camber link, middle or lower inside. Rear inner camber link, middle or lower outside. Rear hub use the middle camber hole. Use the outside rear hub
camber link only for large track w/o 180. Built the shock with the longest possible shock shaft length for a lot of droop. 0.5 to 1 degree front camber, 1 to 1.5 degree rear camber. [very important] Use Dremel to grind the inside spring so it doesn't bind against spring cups or collars. Use metal diff in the rear for hot outdoor, plastic diff won't holdup that well and cause spin out. Also, in order to make the diff lock with min
pressure...you need to sand the diff rings surface with a fine metal type sand paper. Use a lot of stealth lube and your diff should lock and feel very very smooth. You can make it even smoother and lock better with Losi 3/32 carbide diff balls.***
So here's what i came up with:
Front
shock mount: outer-tower outer-arm
camber rod: middle inner
toe out: 1*
camber : 0.5*
blue spring
30 wt oil Losi
2mm uptravel
6.5mm ride ht
Rear
shock mount: 2nd from outer-tower outer-arm
camber rod: middle lower-tower middle/bottom row - hub
toe in: 2*hub
camber: 1*
blue spring
25 wt oil Losi
4mm uptravel
7mm ride
(ran car high per Arthur, seemed to be fine.)
24 sorex (cold night) 28 should work in day - HPI red insert
Protoform stratus
steering link 19mm
wheelbase: stock
double one way
10x2 Peak Aurora base motor 120/35
That was a long one!
wow, this thread is out of date! Anyway, Has anyone been testing on asphalt? My first time out was a total mess, but I think i'm getting it together now. My car is working pretty decent. If anyone can give any ideas on what to try let me know.
BTW, i asked Arthur from Integy for some general setup help. He sent me the following, which was very helpful.
***The dark blue springs comes with the car works good, we run 6.5mm:F and 7mm:R ride height. [lower ride height would cause the car to bottom out] Shock oil 20 to 25 for more steering. 40 weight for less steering. Front inner camber link, middle or lower inside. Rear inner camber link, middle or lower outside. Rear hub use the middle camber hole. Use the outside rear hub
camber link only for large track w/o 180. Built the shock with the longest possible shock shaft length for a lot of droop. 0.5 to 1 degree front camber, 1 to 1.5 degree rear camber. [very important] Use Dremel to grind the inside spring so it doesn't bind against spring cups or collars. Use metal diff in the rear for hot outdoor, plastic diff won't holdup that well and cause spin out. Also, in order to make the diff lock with min
pressure...you need to sand the diff rings surface with a fine metal type sand paper. Use a lot of stealth lube and your diff should lock and feel very very smooth. You can make it even smoother and lock better with Losi 3/32 carbide diff balls.***
So here's what i came up with:
Front
shock mount: outer-tower outer-arm
camber rod: middle inner
toe out: 1*
camber : 0.5*
blue spring
30 wt oil Losi
2mm uptravel
6.5mm ride ht
Rear
shock mount: 2nd from outer-tower outer-arm
camber rod: middle lower-tower middle/bottom row - hub
toe in: 2*hub
camber: 1*
blue spring
25 wt oil Losi
4mm uptravel
7mm ride
(ran car high per Arthur, seemed to be fine.)
24 sorex (cold night) 28 should work in day - HPI red insert
Protoform stratus
steering link 19mm
wheelbase: stock
double one way
10x2 Peak Aurora base motor 120/35
That was a long one!
What does he mean by Dremeling the 'inside spring'?? does he mean to clean up the inside of the bottom of the spring where it rides on the spring cup??
And whats a 'metal diff for the rear' Does he mean use a metal diff pulley?? im confuseded. Thanks
10-14-2002, 09:44 PM
#277
Hi all
I'm looking at getting the YM32 si, what is everyones opinion of the car? Does anyone know anywhere that is selling them at a good price?
Does the car still have the lockable centre one-way like the old model, and is a regular front diff available as I'm not a big fan of one-ways?
I'm looking at getting the YM32 si, what is everyones opinion of the car? Does anyone know anywhere that is selling them at a good price?
Does the car still have the lockable centre one-way like the old model, and is a regular front diff available as I'm not a big fan of one-ways?
Last edited by JohnA; 10-16-2002 at 10:53 PM.
10-16-2002, 10:52 PM
#278
Someone must have some info on the YM34 si, or has everyone given up on Atlas???
10-17-2002, 08:48 AM
#279
the si looks like a real champ. i've been thinking of getting an atlas since the release of the type r. i actually think that the type r is prettier. all of the weight is as centered as possible. then with the si, they go back to a super low cg design with the motor offset. i do like the long camber links, though. and the atlas suspension arms are among the longest that you'll find of any touring car. though i haven't driven either, i'm sure that it's a champ, just like any other high end car. parts are hard to come by and fairly expensive (integy), the good part is that it really is fully hopped up. setup info is limited to this thread which, as you know, is nearly inactive.
this was one of the cars i considered for my recent purchase some four months ago. personally, i opted for another car simply based on the fact that there are no droop screws. these guys that post here have heard me whine about this before, but i just find that unacceptable on a car of this level. so on principle alone, i bought an rclab 7even evoII! i'm still looking on the for sale boards for a good deal on a type r or si all the time. by the way...the new corally is going to be released soon. the hype is intense about it. a final prototype will be at the indoor champs at thanksgiving. pics will soon follow. at $329 for the si, i'd surely wait for the new corally car. just an opinion in case you didn't hear about it. good luck.
this was one of the cars i considered for my recent purchase some four months ago. personally, i opted for another car simply based on the fact that there are no droop screws. these guys that post here have heard me whine about this before, but i just find that unacceptable on a car of this level. so on principle alone, i bought an rclab 7even evoII! i'm still looking on the for sale boards for a good deal on a type r or si all the time. by the way...the new corally is going to be released soon. the hype is intense about it. a final prototype will be at the indoor champs at thanksgiving. pics will soon follow. at $329 for the si, i'd surely wait for the new corally car. just an opinion in case you didn't hear about it. good luck.
10-17-2002, 09:27 AM
#280
personally, i have 3 of the YM34 series - original, type T, type Si. I am not sure what type R u are talking about ......
i add the droop screws on all my YM34, so far so good ....... altho it is a little bit of drill work.
to be honest, your comments seems quite fair altho you dont have any of these .....
i add the droop screws on all my YM34, so far so good ....... altho it is a little bit of drill work.
to be honest, your comments seems quite fair altho you dont have any of these .....
10-17-2002, 01:51 PM
#281
go speed-
Arthur was talking about making sure the inside of the spring-the part which would touch the shock body and cups- was cleaned up.
Also, there are delrin diff parts available for the car-outdrives. They are not pinned ala TC3 or Losi, so the rings can spin and cause crappy diff action in real hot weather. The ring is an odd size due to the diff ball arrangement so i doubt you could substitute for a different car's stuff. I have tried to glue the rings on in the past but I just got better action with a metal diff in all conditions. As far as droop screws its really easy to do and helps a lot.
I think that the car is good, but the main problems are lack of caster adjustments at the hub and a general tendency to push. I think the push comes from the large amount of caster, which is better suited to flowing tracks more commonly found in Japan.
The car has to be decent, since a Japanese guy at the track around here says it's very popular in Japan. I also see at least one car in the main at big races over there. the biggest problem is a lack of drivers over here to help get setup worked out for American tracks.
I will say I put the car down the first weekend i had it, with a guess at setup on foam tires, and put it in the B main. This was at a Carpet Racing league event in Michigan with 50 cars in the stock class. i had to run full 4wd, but there was potential there.
Arthur was talking about making sure the inside of the spring-the part which would touch the shock body and cups- was cleaned up.
Also, there are delrin diff parts available for the car-outdrives. They are not pinned ala TC3 or Losi, so the rings can spin and cause crappy diff action in real hot weather. The ring is an odd size due to the diff ball arrangement so i doubt you could substitute for a different car's stuff. I have tried to glue the rings on in the past but I just got better action with a metal diff in all conditions. As far as droop screws its really easy to do and helps a lot.
I think that the car is good, but the main problems are lack of caster adjustments at the hub and a general tendency to push. I think the push comes from the large amount of caster, which is better suited to flowing tracks more commonly found in Japan.
The car has to be decent, since a Japanese guy at the track around here says it's very popular in Japan. I also see at least one car in the main at big races over there. the biggest problem is a lack of drivers over here to help get setup worked out for American tracks.
I will say I put the car down the first weekend i had it, with a guess at setup on foam tires, and put it in the B main. This was at a Carpet Racing league event in Michigan with 50 cars in the stock class. i had to run full 4wd, but there was potential there.
10-17-2002, 02:46 PM
#282
you fellas that put the droop screws in... the arm is no weaker than before? and they have a place on the chassis to rest? i still kind of want one of these. as far as the castor goes... is there no other manufacturer that makes hub carriers the same size or close?
oh, and ernest which one do you feel performs best, and which do you like the best, and why?
oh, and ernest which one do you feel performs best, and which do you like the best, and why?
10-17-2002, 04:16 PM
#283
Thanks for the input guys, looks like the call is the same as every car, some pros and some cons.
At the moment I'm running a hpi pro2, with a pro3 sitting on the shelf not getting used. I keep trying it but I've never really been happy with the car compared to my old faithful. I did actually own an old Atlas AP some time ago and quite liked the car.
Anyway, thought I'd drag myself into 2002 and get something new and the Atlas si looked a good bet, the new Corally does sound interesting though with its gear/belt drive. Problems problem????
At the moment I'm running a hpi pro2, with a pro3 sitting on the shelf not getting used. I keep trying it but I've never really been happy with the car compared to my old faithful. I did actually own an old Atlas AP some time ago and quite liked the car.
Anyway, thought I'd drag myself into 2002 and get something new and the Atlas si looked a good bet, the new Corally does sound interesting though with its gear/belt drive. Problems problem????
