There's a few threads floating around with people talking maybe this is good, perhaps this works, but a lot of them haven't tried the crazy stuff, or the facility to do it accurately.
I'd like to see a serious wheel like Cyrul, Toso, Blackstock, or Rott, do the same testing. everybody has an ability level, and when you cross it, the laps could likely be better. But as long as you're turning faster laps with little or no error every time you step up the motor, you're getting good results.
The other real problem is those guys really need to work on race setups, they have responsibilities to sponsors. I don't.
If I want to spend all weekend rolling out a mabuchi motor, I do it. I suppose it's my idea of hitting a high score on a video game.
Here is what was tested.
Mabuchi stock motor
This was 1/12th scale 4 cell on our test track. Track is small, 24x48 crc carpet.
I don't claim to be a major wheel, but I'm no slouch. But here's what qualifies this as reasonably useful information. We change the track for fun, but when we test, it's always the same track, and we convert it back. This is no joke. I have (and you can track it in RC scoring pro) just short of 30,000 test laps on this track. That's about 400 packs on the same exact track layout under the same circumstances. Giving me a fairly decent gauge of performance. These are all done solo. I won't test with another car on the track. That doesn't even include cars we just mess around with on the same layout. I want the best result to shine through. Anybody that follows my ideas on (error factor), knows these are INSANE correction numbers. Don't take that to mean that I'm a racing guru. What that means is that I have absolutely mastered our test track. This was no weekend of mastery. It's about 12 months worth of only driving this exact layout. over and over and OVER. To the point where I can see and test very small things and get a good result from lap times, and consistency.
Without over explaining this, here is what I found on our track. I have very consistent packs to test with. and this assumes I've got the car as good as it can be, given each situation.
Run time: For fun, when I'm testing stuff, I listen for the fastest lap, and wait until the car is doing about 1 second slower than that, and that's when I stop driving the car, and it's usually the end of the pack anyway, maybe a smidge past. So as an example a car that maxes at 7.2 seconds, I stop running laps at 8.2 seconds. But experience has shown, it's a very good spot to stop for testing.
Error is the difference between the best lap the package will do, and the average top 20 laps done with the car on that pack. If the package is good for a 7.2 and the average top 20 is 7.65, the "error" is (.465) and this can be used to gauge driver error, and accuracy of the test.
Here is a thread on (error factor) that I started, to further explain it.
How's your driving? The "Stormer error correction", thread.
Silver can Mabuchi,
This was done last year on 3300's to test endurance racing. I'm going to run this again on 4200's, I suspect there will be some improvement from voltage but typically a mabuchi is like a 35 watt motor and really can't put out much over say 15 amps. Likely will get hotter faster with maybe a 1/10th or two for speed increase... maybe.
RO 49.3, fastest 7.845, (error .078) runtime 17 minutes. temp 115 degrees.
RO 54.4, fastest 7.341, (error .148) runtime 16 minutes. temp 127 degrees.
RO 58.9, fastest 7.219, (error .115) runtime 15 minutes. temp 140 degrees.
RO 60.4, fastest 7.151, (error .078) runtime 15 minutes. temp 154 degrees.
First passes on 21.5 Brushless
This was done Yesterday. 450 second 4200mAh practice packs, super fresh match. Firstly, I ran out of gear. to run this motor you need something smaller than a 88 spur and that's with a full size tire (I felt like a noob with it on there)! and, that's on a smaller track. I'm curious where this ends up. but here are the first 3 runs. and I had trouble getting enough drag brake to put the car where I wanted it to go.
run 1) RO 58.5, fastest 6.960, (error .139) run time 23 minutes
run 2) RO 66.8, fastest 6.762, (error .201) run time 19 minutes
run 3) RO 66.8, fastest 6.806, (error .084) run time 20 minutes
Here's some qualifiers for the numbers on the 21.5 runs. First run was an all out guess on rollout, but I got close, based on mabuchi and high wind endurance motor testing I've done in the past.
run 1) Seemed good, but could be faster, 42mm tire. The car is only good for 127 teeth in mesh (that's spur and pinion added to each other). And I didn't have anything smaller than an 88... so am temporarily stuck at a 39/88 and using tire diameters to change roll out. Right now, with these 3 runs, I'm done testing until the smaller spurs get here. VERY uncommon to need spurs under 88.
run 2) Put on a full size yellow rear (48mm) trying to free up the car it worked for about 6 minutes and got me a good maximum potential number/fast lap. and then it got loose (wrong tire for the track). Hence the .201 error. also, pushy entering needs more drag brake.
run 3) back to magenta rears, car was excellent. Added max drag brake, and it helped, but not enough. The car just rolls and rolls. Front left tire was down to the plastic (thought I had enough left for the run). Car started pushing at about 15 minutes which is why it ran for about a minute longer, less amp draw. Had the front tires held up. I'm guessing it would have shaved the runtime about 2 minutes, down to 18 minutes. Car actually felt very raceworthy. You had to have your head in the game. I was a bit surprised.
run 4) I can't wait to get the RO up around 70-80mm and see where this leads. Car set up will be important these motors want to roll.
after some tuning, fell here:
run 1) RO 34.3, fastest 6.495, (error .107) runtime 11:30
run 2) RO 34.3, fastest 6.483, (error .127) runtime 11:30
Trying to knock down a single fast lap hurt the consistency of the second run.
8.5 brushless testing.
Sphere 80500 set up, 2-3-2-2
after some tuning (4 or 5 test Roll out packs) here is where it ended up.
run 1) RO 38.5, fastest 6.225, (error .068) run time 13 minutes
run 2) RO 38.5, fastest 6.110, (error .111) run time 11 minutes
Run 1) was good, but the car felt "bound" worked the diff over for run 2, cleaned the king pins, car was a bit more aggressive.
I want to do the mabuchi testing again though.
But fun information. I don't know about offroad, but 21.5 is a legitimate /12th motor. I'd race the class. The racing would be excellent. I still like the silver can for the noobs, based on pricepoint.
More to come. Doesn't mean this is the gospel either. What it means is here is some stuff to look at, rather than, "I think" or "it should". Your results will very.