R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-27-2011, 11:42 PM   #1261
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South FLorida
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Profoxcg
Default

red quite honestly I have not been to my track yet w the car. But from experience I can tell you its slow and that I would be a total road block. My mini-z seemed to have more punch.

The track where I plan to race has long straight and some pretty technical bits. I can def benefit from a car with some good acceleration and moderate top end. My driving style is usually to not use the brakes in the infield unless I HAVE to, and just a light tap at the end of the straight. (this is true for nitro and mini-z) I am sure 10th tc will be different. But my ESC has dynamic brakes, so maybe I wont use brakes at all. It is going to be a learning process with this car and electric overall.

I do however wanted to have enough gears so that when I go to the track I can happily run the car and start to tune.

About suspension,
The springs in the kit are MED. Anyone using Hard or soft?
both of the track I plan to run are concrete. On the tennis court the car felt nice, but I am sure once I bring it up to speed things will change.
Profoxcg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 12:26 AM   #1262
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 187
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Tamiya makes two different sets of springs Soft set (3 rates)
and Hard set (4 different rates)
As for as I know (and comparing the kit supplied White w/ Yellow Med spring)
it compares to the Med Yellow Hard set in this kit:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53440
(nevermind the outdated black and white photo)
From that kit, you have red, softer, and blue stiffer, and other white, more stiffer.
I have a set that I bring with me to an indoor carpet track, but, have not used anything other than the kit springs.

I drove an RC car on the High School tennis court once, lots of grip, but really upsets the P.E. teachers!

As far as gearing in your application, I would probably start with the 28t, (from the 28 and 29t set) A safer approach (as per your manual with the motor) would be to start with the 26t (from the 26 and 27t set)

Check the motor temp after a few minutes, and the length of a race, and adjust according.
red7fifty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 12:28 AM   #1263
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 187
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

For the stock pinion included.....find someone at the track with a TT01 or Mini....they might want that pinion.
red7fifty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 02:53 PM   #1264
Tech Fanatic
 
silverhkswrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 988
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to silverhkswrx Send a message via Skype™ to silverhkswrx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
New body, PF MazdaSpeed6.
Just finished the paint, hood graphic is hand painted.....old Testor's model brush.
Drove the new car in (2) separate mains.
1st drive of the new car in main, placed 1st.
Following week, 2nd run of the car in main, placed 1st.

Nice car out of the box, but......

The other TA06 at my local track has a few more runs on it.....I'm guessing, 10 runs....and the main belt is REALLY loose. To the point, that you can't adjust any more on the tensioner (which was never set tight to begin with) To the point, that it can easily be removed by hand. The front belt has loosened also.

Since mine only has a couple runs, it hasn't developed this issue, but I can compare the two side by side, and the difference is obvious. (I built both cars, at the same time)
My TC5 belts haven't got this loose, in over a year's racing. Do these belts suck? <or> is something else the problem?

Anyone else having belt issues? Both cars are running 13.5 BL.
A few had this issue. Check your center pulleu(up front) it has a tendency to back the screw out and causing it to angle out. fix: Longer screw (10mm or 12mm if i am not mistaken) and a nut fastened to the bottom. or hop up to the eagle racing parts. It fixed my issue.....

****I am an idiot. I circled the wrong screw! its the blue screw in the picture.
__________________
SpeedPassion 17.5R powered TRF417X
My son owns: Team Associated RC18R2
(RC18B2 converted to a RC18R)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm

Last edited by silverhkswrx; 11-28-2011 at 03:25 PM.
silverhkswrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 03:09 PM   #1265
Tech Fanatic
 
silverhkswrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 988
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to silverhkswrx Send a message via Skype™ to silverhkswrx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SNIPR View Post
If you are wanting to drift and race why not look at the Hot Bodies TC-FD. It uses the same parts as the TCX but can be set up for either or... I would think the TA05 VDF is what you would want for drifting if you are stuck on Tamiya brand.
I strongly disagree. I have been rc drifting for 6 years now (started out with a yokomo) and this is BY FAR a better chassis. more balanced and the response is unmatched. only issue so far is countersteer drifting. no one has made kits, but when (if) they do, the only mod can impact the front being as how the rear are gears that cannot be adjusted...there is a company that is coming out with Ackerman steering set for this chassis. too bad its $100.


I WAS going to race RCGT, but I have decided to stick to rcdrifting (eventhough I am the only one in CFL that drifts....)
__________________
SpeedPassion 17.5R powered TRF417X
My son owns: Team Associated RC18R2
(RC18B2 converted to a RC18R)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
silverhkswrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 03:15 PM   #1266
Tech Fanatic
 
silverhkswrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 988
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to silverhkswrx Send a message via Skype™ to silverhkswrx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SNIPR View Post
Here is a 107 pcs hex screw set that is steel/chrome for 1/3 the price of titanium.
also 2x the weight....

the main benefit of Titanium is weight with strength slightly compromised. steel/chrome is just as heavy if not heavier than the stock parts.
__________________
SpeedPassion 17.5R powered TRF417X
My son owns: Team Associated RC18R2
(RC18B2 converted to a RC18R)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
silverhkswrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 03:19 PM   #1267
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 187
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
A few had this issue. Check your center pulleu(up front) it has a tendency to back the screw out and causing it to angle out. fix: Longer screw (10mm or 12mm if i am not mistaken) and a nut fastened to the bottom. or hop up to the eagle racing parts. It fixed my issue.....

Thanks. Yeah, we checked that first, and screws were not loose, but reset it anyway....didn't seem to change anything....belt is still, very very loose.
red7fifty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 03:20 PM   #1268
Tech Fanatic
 
silverhkswrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 988
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to silverhkswrx Send a message via Skype™ to silverhkswrx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
Tamiya makes two different sets of springs Soft set (3 rates)
and Hard set (4 different rates)
As for as I know (and comparing the kit supplied White w/ Yellow Med spring)
it compares to the Med Yellow Hard set in this kit:
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53440
(nevermind the outdated black and white photo)
From that kit, you have red, softer, and blue stiffer, and other white, more stiffer.
I have a set that I bring with me to an indoor carpet track, but, have not used anything other than the kit springs.

I drove an RC car on the High School tennis court once, lots of grip, but really upsets the P.E. teachers!

As far as gearing in your application, I would probably start with the 28t, (from the 28 and 29t set) A safer approach (as per your manual with the motor) would be to start with the 26t (from the 26 and 27t set)

Check the motor temp after a few minutes, and the length of a race, and adjust according.
what body are you running? (IFS or not) If IFS, you can run a stiffer spring out back to compensate for the additional downforce the IFS body creates. (but your car will understeer a tad) I actualy bought the TRF rear damper cups to give me the flexability to run different springs. I was using the TRF rear cups with the Rayspeed white springs (I thinkt he Tamiya yellows are 14 and the blues are 17, the Rayspeeds are around 15.5)
__________________
SpeedPassion 17.5R powered TRF417X
My son owns: Team Associated RC18R2
(RC18B2 converted to a RC18R)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
silverhkswrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 03:26 PM   #1269
Tech Fanatic
 
silverhkswrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 988
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to silverhkswrx Send a message via Skype™ to silverhkswrx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
Thanks. Yeah, we checked that first, and screws were not loose, but reset it anyway....didn't seem to change anything....belt is still, very very loose.
chassis cracked?

Mine is actually VERY tight. Try using the Kawada belts. they're stronger and fiber reinforced.
__________________
SpeedPassion 17.5R powered TRF417X
My son owns: Team Associated RC18R2
(RC18B2 converted to a RC18R)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
silverhkswrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 03:46 PM   #1270
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 187
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
chassis cracked?

Mine is actually VERY tight. Try using the Kawada belts. they're stronger and fiber reinforced.
I don't think so......Maybe the belts have already stretched?
red7fifty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2011, 04:54 PM   #1271
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South FLorida
Posts: 1,104
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to Profoxcg
Default

what is a "TRF rear damper cups " how does it give you the flexibility to run other springs? dont the plactic do the same?

I was going to race rcgt, but I am now going straight to Touring HA! When I get my serpent then maybe ill move it into Tc and keep the TA for Tamiya cups and rcgt. (although there is people here running TRF41X for rcgt..
Profoxcg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 04:35 PM   #1272
Tech Elite
 
stitchy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 3,794
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Just got the new Carbon reinforced A, J, and T parts as well as the front carbon damper stay:

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...catmainid=1045
__________________
Speedtechhobbies.com
stitchy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 04:51 PM   #1273
Tech Fanatic
 
silverhkswrx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tampa, Fl.
Posts: 988
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to silverhkswrx Send a message via Skype™ to silverhkswrx
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
what is a "TRF rear damper cups " how does it give you the flexibility to run other springs? dont the plactic do the same?

I was going to race rcgt, but I am now going straight to Touring HA! When I get my serpent then maybe ill move it into Tc and keep the TA for Tamiya cups and rcgt. (although there is people here running TRF41X for rcgt..
the tamiya dampers run a little thin. the trf cups allow a larger diameter spring to be used.(non-tamiya spring)
__________________
SpeedPassion 17.5R powered TRF417X
My son owns: Team Associated RC18R2
(RC18B2 converted to a RC18R)

http://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
silverhkswrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 05:01 PM   #1274
Tech Fanatic
 
SNIPR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: TX
Posts: 857
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Both of the chassis I have listed are made specifically for drifting w/ the exception to the TC-FD which comes with all pulleys for either one minus the CS stuff unfortunitly... I am not saying this chassis will not work but what it will take to match the Tamiya VDF - just buy the VDF... Either way wrong thread for this debate

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
I strongly disagree. I have been rc drifting for 6 years now (started out with a yokomo) and this is BY FAR a better chassis. more balanced and the response is unmatched. only issue so far is countersteer drifting. no one has made kits, but when (if) they do, the only mod can impact the front being as how the rear are gears that cannot be adjusted...there is a company that is coming out with Ackerman steering set for this chassis. too bad its $100.


I WAS going to race RCGT, but I have decided to stick to rcdrifting (eventhough I am the only one in CFL that drifts....)
I am sorry but no one is going to notice that little bit of difference in weight unless you are a factory pro driver such as Marc Rheinard... $70 vs $21 for hex over philips is a positive in my book. If you are going to race in RCGT/USGT/VTA you need the added weight and the minimum is set so high.

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
also 2x the weight....

the main benefit of Titanium is weight with strength slightly compromised. steel/chrome is just as heavy if not heavier than the stock parts.
Of if you are like myself and plan on upgrading to graphite the VBC Chassis kit comes w/ the hex screws already. I am just waiting to see what Exotek is coming out with before I decide.
__________________
thevinylgarage.com - facebook.com/TheVinylGarage - facebook.com/THETrack806

Not Sponsored by:
Viper | Tekin | Trinity | Serpent | Durango | Gravity RC | Pro-Line | Radiopost
SNIPR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2011, 06:43 PM   #1275
Tech Elite
 
peter_robinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: On the Lake
Posts: 3,206
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Probably should have asked this before purchasing a kit... But do trinity/epic motors not fit without modding the chassis? If not then I'll have a half assembled kit up for sale soon...
__________________
For orders or inquiries, email sales@rc-trim.com. Follow RC-Trim on Twitter and Facebook

RC-Trim | Serpent USA | On-Point | Trinity | Revtech | ORCA | BSR | KO Propo | PT RC Racing Oil | WTRC | rcpitwhores.com
peter_robinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Selling Schumacher Mi2, Tamiya M02, Tamiya TA04-S, Tamiya TB Evolution 3 Surikarn Ltd st_rob Australia For Sale/Trade 4 12-23-2008 07:37 PM
Tamiya 415 MSX, legacy 2.0, NIP Type A tires, Tamiya towel for sale or trade Fastburn R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 16 09-06-2008 12:45 AM
FS: Tekin Rebel 2 ESC w/ Tamiya GT Tuned Motor & Tamiya AM Radio & Receiver wrxnfx R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 6 06-10-2008 06:40 PM
Tamiya M03 / Trinity Brushes / Muchmore Battery Cooler / Tamiya M Chassis Wheels bluejays R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 2 12-16-2007 09:31 PM
Hpi rs4, tamiya tt01, tamiya tg-10, tamiya sprint! MORE!!!!! Genuinekid R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 10 09-10-2007 04:21 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:48 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0