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Old 11-26-2011, 02:15 PM   #1231
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Now here is the pics.

http://jerryn.kuvat.fi/kuvat/RC.AUTO...T/IMG_0559.JPG

I found some problem now when I build the car.
They are easy to fix but this is the first bersion so lets see how it goas on track.
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:38 PM   #1232
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Hey guys
Never built a tamiya kit and I was looking into getting the ta06 pro I have been told that on some tamiya kits the factory Phillips head screws strip really easy and I was told to get the titanium screw set is it worth the extra money?
thanks
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:40 PM   #1233
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Yes, they worth it. I ordered them with my kit. They are much easier to thread ect. The philips are kind of soft and yes tend to want to strip
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:10 PM   #1234
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Do they make a metric screw kit for TA06?


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Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
Yes, they worth it. I ordered them with my kit. They are much easier to thread ect. The philips are kind of soft and yes tend to want to strip
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:19 PM   #1235
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Tamiya makes a Ti screw kit for the 06, and yes, it is metric.

I stripped out 4 screws putting my car together, and that's never happened before in all the Tamiya cars I have built over the years, odd. They must be softer material than normal.
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:19 AM   #1236
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I know cross head screws are not ideal, but as long as you have the correct screwdriver, are not bad.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:14 AM   #1237
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New body, PF MazdaSpeed6.
Just finished the paint, hood graphic is hand painted.....old Testor's model brush.
Drove the new car in (2) separate mains.
1st drive of the new car in main, placed 1st.
Following week, 2nd run of the car in main, placed 1st.

Nice car out of the box, but......

The other TA06 at my local track has a few more runs on it.....I'm guessing, 10 runs....and the main belt is REALLY loose. To the point, that you can't adjust any more on the tensioner (which was never set tight to begin with) To the point, that it can easily be removed by hand. The front belt has loosened also.

Since mine only has a couple runs, it hasn't developed this issue, but I can compare the two side by side, and the difference is obvious. (I built both cars, at the same time)
My TC5 belts haven't got this loose, in over a year's racing. Do these belts suck? <or> is something else the problem?

Anyone else having belt issues? Both cars are running 13.5 BL.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya Ta06-ms6-.jpg   Tamiya Ta06-ms6-1.jpg  

Last edited by red7fifty; 11-27-2011 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:29 PM   #1238
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Default motors 17.5

What motors are you guys running. As I mentioned I am running a Ko motor, cheap:

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=919&id=11965

the car runs but its kind of slow, no top end. had I gone racing I would have gotten killed for sure. I am running the stock gearing. Do you guys thinkg I need a "better" motor? what are you guys runnig?

I am thinking something like the LRP vector X12 or the Reedy Sonic. I like the Reedy because it had adjustable timing...
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Old 11-27-2011, 06:42 PM   #1239
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With that motor (17.5) your gonna have to gear it up to about 28~30T pinion.
Depending on track, KV, motor torque, etc.
The stock gearing is too low.

Do you know your KV rating?

I've got the Trinity D3 in my TA06
13.5
3600KV
27T pinion
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:09 PM   #1240
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If you are wanting to drift and race why not look at the Hot Bodies TC-FD. It uses the same parts as the TCX but can be set up for either or... I would think the TA05 VDF is what you would want for drifting if you are stuck on Tamiya brand.

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Hey guys wanted to know if this was a decent drift car as the ta05 wasnt a bad drift car and was wondering if anyone has tried it
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:12 PM   #1241
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I am still on the fence on which chassis to pruchase - TA06 Pro w/ Exotek (when available) or the Hot Bodies TC-FD...

Either case I will be running the new Trinity D3 10.5 in the VTA class just started this season. Yes VTA, we will use VTA body, tires and wheels but nothing faster then a 10.5 and any esc will be allowed...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
What motors are you guys running. As I mentioned I am running a Ko motor, cheap:

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebp...d=919&id=11965

the car runs but its kind of slow, no top end. had I gone racing I would have gotten killed for sure. I am running the stock gearing. Do you guys thinkg I need a "better" motor? what are you guys runnig?

I am thinking something like the LRP vector X12 or the Reedy Sonic. I like the Reedy because it had adjustable timing...
Quote:
Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
With that motor (17.5) your gonna have to gear it up to about 28~30T pinion.
Depending on track, KV, motor torque, etc.
The stock gearing is too low.

Do you know your KV rating?

I've got the Trinity D3 in my TA06
13.5
3600KV
27T pinion
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:41 PM   #1242
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Default KO BLM17.5 motor / gearing the TA06

Quote:
Originally Posted by red7fifty View Post
With that motor (17.5) your gonna have to gear it up to about 28~30T pinion.
Depending on track, KV, motor torque, etc.
The stock gearing is too low.

Do you know your KV rating?

I've got the Trinity D3 in my TA06
13.5
3600KV
27T pinion

---------------
17.5
2100KV
Stock pinion 23T
Stock 68T Spur

The little booklet with the motor says it recommends 5.75:1 for 110th scale sedan.. whatever the means ?

The tamiya instructions say that the car (TA06 pro) will have a ratio of 6.41:1. To get to the ratio suggested by the manufacturer of my motor I will need to run a 26T pinion.

Since I noticed the recommended ratio for my motor, what will I allow by gearing the car to that suggested ratio (or close to it).

Thanks

Last edited by Profoxcg; 12-03-2011 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:09 PM   #1243
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Here is a 107 pcs hex screw set that is steel/chrome for 1/3 the price of titanium.
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:10 PM   #1244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
---------------
17.5
2100KV
Stock pinion 23T
Stock 68T Spur

The little booklet with the motor says it recommends 5.75:1 for 110th scale sedan.. whatever the means ?

The tamiya instructions say that the car (TA06 pro) will have a ration of 6.41:1. To get to the ration suggested by the manufacturer of my motor I will need to run a 26T pinion.

What is a 06 module gear? is this something proprietary by tamiya? < Ok I searched and found my answer... Still would a 64pitch set of gears be better smoother than the 0.6 module? CAN a 64P spur fit tamiya cars?

Another question, if a 68T spur the standard? I never really got into playing with gears in the past (not in 10th scale RC, only on slot cars and mini-z)
In mini-Z you only change the pinion, and in slot cars, well you can change both, but they are completely different.

Since I noticed the recommended ratio for my motor, what will I allow by gearing the car to that suggested ratio (or close to it).

Thanks
TA06 is 1/10th scale sedan.

From your motor instructions, 5.75:1 (almost 6 revolutions of motor pinion, for 1 turn of the wheels) would be 25.5 tooth pinion gear. Since you can't get a 1/2 tooth, a 25T is 5.89 ratio, and 26T is 5.67 ratio. Many drivers with 17.5 BL, gear around 5:1 to 4.5 :1 To get higher top speed, but don't overload your motor. Do you have a temp gauge/gun. Most BL motors should not exceed 160*.

.6 Mod/ AV gears, are the pitch of the gear tooth. HPI also makes .6 mod.
You can change spurs to another brand, 48P or 64P, but, your on your own to figure out the correct tooth count. When doing so, measure the diameter of the spur, and look for a similar size diameter for the replacement. For the Pinion, look for a similar size in overall diameter, than add a tooth or two. You might have to buy a few different pinions, and test them to find the best one for your motor's performance, and your track conditions. Measure the motor temp....if it's getting hot, reduce the pinion gear size.
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:13 PM   #1245
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64P is smoother, and can fine tune gear ratios by small increments.

I use 48P on my other cars. (TC5)

I use stock .6 mod in TA06.
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