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Old 10-19-2011, 10:30 PM   #976
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
WC, i found part # 53928 and I wanted to know if your width changed any...It says short sus arms, but the diagrams look nearly 100% the same, even where the holes line up.

53928 **sells by the pair (1F, 1R)** = "CF"

51353*sells by the set of 4(2F, 2R)** = "GF"
i have never bought the 4pk got enough here unused from kits
plus get topup donations from generous friends who don't use them either
which then either get used for our odd experimental research projects
or fixing up kiddies with broken Tamiyas who just need 1 arm etc

both types come from the same mold & is identical in dimensions
(but being anal... imho the GF shrinks more than CF during cooling
so the CF part's holes end up tighter than the GF part when new.)

Short Reversible arms have the "X" bracing.

Reversible arms look more like "Y" shape in their bracing,
they're only a mil or 2 longer.


parts list for stiff job:-



53928 hard Short Reversible suspension arm
51332 TRF416 hard Front Upright
51333 hard Rear Upright
54031 hard Hub Carrier 4Deg

+

53709 fluorine coated suspension ball
53539 Aluminum Spacer Set 5.5mm
with
54069 tb03 suspension mount 1A
54172 ta05 ver 2 separate sus. Mounts 1a/1xa (base setup)
54072 tb03 suspension mount 1d (base setup)
and maybe
53851 3x46mm Ti. coated suspension shafts
53917 2.6mm Ti. Coated shaft set for reversible suspension

^^ cribbed off my last VDF build blog
http://melbrc.org/vB/showthread.php?t=5021
should all be the same for TA06 suspension


interestingly the TA06 does not have a little collar between the 2 1050s in knuckles
anybody know why? Thought this was to help the BBs' longetivity after 950 debacle,
but they've disappeared from TA06 whilst the VDF got them.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:04 PM   #977
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
then why include #51353 in a "pro" version? getting rid of old stock? why not include those in the non pro versions and give us the 53928's?
its better for profits, they're PROs at making money

since time inmemorial, T's idea of "PRO" is what layman would call "CON"
It is usually used on a kitbox that's first of its new-model out the gates
with a mission of soaking up all the freecashflow from early adopters.

evidence:-

TA03F PRO... added only balldiffs and plate chassis vs std kit tub.
And the plates were only FRP, not CF (sold separately)!
Later reborn as the TA03F PRO Jun and TA03F DriftSpec
neither of which had as many alloy bits like TA03R TRF.

TA04 PRO... again this only added balldiffs and FRP plates.
Everything else including CVDs, lightweight diff parts, proper TRF shocks,
low-drag belts, reinforced gearcases, reinforced knuckles, reinforced arms,
CF plates in either black or SSG, alloy hingepin blocks, race front suspension,
CF shock towers, finned motor mount, CF spur mount, hardened layshaft,
centre & front oneway diffs.... $350 base kit, $900 in options...
Which brought it up to level of $400 TA04R or $500 TA04TRF.

TA05... ahh T got smarter, they knew fans were onto their PRO scheme.
So the 1st TA05 was called the "Porsche 934RSR Anniversary".
And for a 2nd bite at the cherry, that begat the TA05MS.

scam then moved onto smaller cars...

M05 PRO still no TRFs, no CVDs, no balldiff.


in hindsight... TA06 PRO isn't that bad a deal.
Its decently priced and you now get TRFs ($50) and 417-spec CVDs ($60).
The low-fric grey ballcups aren't widely supplied in non-TRF kits either
so that's another $10 value; could've added the grey bits for the TRFs too.

There's a few whingers about posidrive vs hex head screws
but after those nice shiny bronze hexes they supplied in TA05VDF kit,
they're buttersoft and you'll easily strip their heads unless you had good tools.
They ain't much hardier than their blue aluminium or bright Ti screws.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:02 PM   #978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WC View Post

parts list for stiff job:-

53928 hard Short Reversible suspension arm
51332 TRF416 hard Front Upright
51333 hard Rear Upright
54031 hard Hub Carrier 4Deg

+

53709 fluorine coated suspension ball
53539 Aluminum Spacer Set 5.5mm
with
54069 tb03 suspension mount 1A
54172 ta05 ver 2 separate sus. Mounts 1a/1xa (base setup)
54072 tb03 suspension mount 1d (base setup)
and maybe
53851 3x46mm Ti. coated suspension shafts
53917 2.6mm Ti. Coated shaft set for reversible suspension
My "stiffness and lightness" adventure has led me to the following:
tamiya ta06 carbon chassis, a parts and t parts, titanium screw kit, TRF tbo3d rear alum hubs, carbon rear tower, all sus mounts
yeah racing tb03d c hub and front knuckles
square rc titanium shafts and all ball studs


im interested to fund my weight RTR.

I come from a yokomo SD, and BD and I am used to racing a chassis that favors one side, its just this is the opposite side.

ironically if somone comes out with a carbon chassis, i will prob stick with the tub.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:23 PM   #979
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Here are the sizes for the saddles Size:69.1 * 46.48 *24.9mm(L * W * H) and Size: 68.9 * 46.32 * 31.33mm(L * W * H) any idea if these would fit?

Quote:
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highly doubtful.
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:30 AM   #980
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Here are the sizes for the saddles Size:69.1 * 46.48 *24.9mm(L * W * H) and Size: 68.9 * 46.32 * 31.33mm(L * W * H) any idea if these would fit?
Unless you can find a way to run the link wire from one to the other battery, no they won't fit.
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:46 AM   #981
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Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst View Post
Unless you can find a way to run the link wire from one to the other battery, no they won't fit.
yea, definately time to bust out with the dremel.


my battery i am running is Dimensions: 134mm x 45mm x 23mm and its snug.

69.1 x 46.48 x 24.9= 138mm x 92mm x 50mm (too big)
68.9 x 46.32 x 31.73 = 137.8 x 92mm x 64mm (still too big.)
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:28 AM   #982
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I've read the last couple pages, I'm trying to decided if this is a good chassis for me.

I club race, I'm not an expert driver I fall in the middle somewhere. I was thinking about trying this chassis out. My last car was a TC6 before that I was racing an xray t3.

any thoughts??
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:50 AM   #983
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Originally Posted by Big Midget View Post
I've read the last couple pages, I'm trying to decided if this is a good chassis for me.

I club race, I'm not an expert driver I fall in the middle somewhere. I was thinking about trying this chassis out. My last car was a TC6 before that I was racing an xray t3.

any thoughts??
I reccomend it. I am by no means a professional either and this is a great chassis to learn with. Very unconventional setup, but it works great!
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:51 AM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Midget View Post
I've read the last couple pages, I'm trying to decided if this is a good chassis for me.

I club race, I'm not an expert driver I fall in the middle somewhere. I was thinking about trying this chassis out. My last car was a TC6 before that I was racing an xray t3.

any thoughts??
If you've had a TC6 and an Xray beforehand, then this would be a "step down" for you. However, since you are "not an expert driver" you will find that your lap times will be very similar. So if you want to try a different chassis for "newness", this is certainly a nice one to play around with since it's so unique. I.e. - all the "expert" touring cars out there are all very similar where the two belts are in the middle, motor and battery to one side, etc. and can only be realy differentiated by the color of the anodizing!!
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:00 AM   #985
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Just thought I would post up some of my latest TA06 experiments.

In the pics is a layout for a shorty pack. It is really not as cool as you would think since the chassis still needs to be balanced out for the servo which puts about 45 grams back on the outside of the chassis. I went back to a standard set-up to test batteries back to back.

I also removed a whopping 27ish grams from the drive-line with the following parts.

R1101: R1 Wurks 7075-T6 Drive Axles (Tamiya, pair)

TAM54304: TA06 Front Direct Coupling - 39T

TAM53724: Tamiya 46mm Swing Shaft Lw

TAM51469: TRF417 Gear Diff Unit Cup Joint

Hotbodies DCJs are going in tonight before carpet club racing tomorrow. I should have a very good spec rubber tire carpet set-up after tomorrow. I was getting within a tenth of my TCX consistently before the newest diet listed above.

If you run open rubber tires, not only are Sorex better tires, but they will also drop another 20 grams of static weight off of the drive-line.

Running weight with regular battery, 1389 grams.

Running weight pre-ballast with shorty, 1291 grams.

Mike Slaughter
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:57 AM   #986
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How is this car right out of the box? Anything extra I would need?
It comes stock with front and rear gear diffs right?

Sorry to interrupt guys.
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:58 AM   #987
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hmmm... neat install!

gotta get me some shorty packs to hide the ESC inside





Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
My "stiffness and lightness" adventure has led me to the following:
tamiya ta06 carbon chassis, a parts and t parts, titanium screw kit, TRF tbo3d rear alum hubs, carbon rear tower, all sus mounts
yeah racing tb03d c hub and front knuckles
square rc titanium shafts and all ball studs
even with std chassis after adding the rear alloy turrets over motor
i find it plenty stiff laterally, feels like any other chassis

tortional flex is good afaik

TA06 manages to generate a lot of mechanical grip...


Quote:
I come from a yokomo SD, and BD and I am used to racing a chassis that favors one side, its just this is the opposite side.

ironically if somone comes out with a carbon chassis, i will prob stick with the tub.
same BITD used to race a chassis with NiMH on LHS counterclockwise
around the track... a std TA05 with battery on the other side
was never quite the same holding the highspeed sweepers
(comparative speed ok but much more uneven tyre wear)
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:05 AM   #988
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Originally Posted by Big Midget View Post
How is this car right out of the box?
Anything extra I would need?
It comes stock with front and rear gear diffs right?
yes gear diffs std in both PRO and bodyset kits

feels good to me, even in box stock spec - i assume you're racing

PRO gets TRF shocks, best in the biz. Stock CVDs also can't be beat.
Non-PRO kits will need CVDs; TRFs highly recommended.


Depending how often you whack the boards, aluminium turnbuckles
might bend often so some replace with stiffer equivalents.


As said above i like stiff plastics & alloy mounts for my serious builds
as it noticeably sharpens its response; ergo when i do tuning i usually like
to have 2 identical cars driven back-2-back to confirm every change.
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:21 AM   #989
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Thanks WC, Do most of you guys lay your shocks down or stand them up?
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:33 AM   #990
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Stand up ofcourse....

Can somebody link the carbon chassis that are out there for sell at this moment.
The car has been out for sometime now but in ebay there is none chassis set for sell yet.
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