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Old 10-14-2011, 01:50 PM   #931
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I should be the king of the crash test !!!

--> In fact, I used to change mine on my old TA05 every years cause the teeth becomes very used (the form of the teeth becomes sharp...)...

Well, If Tamiya does not sell the direct drive's 39T pulley only, I will have to spend extra money to buy the TA06 spool (very expensive here in France...)


Thank you for your help anyway...
ouch.

I use the low friction belts and this reduces the shaving of the belts. Kawada makes a set.
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Old 10-14-2011, 10:16 PM   #932
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Where do you get the low friction belts? I haven't seen kawada stuff in US stores.
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:06 PM   #933
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
Try again. The TRF dampers are $50 alone.
TA06 Pro kit is what i was referring to. and yes I know all about TRF which is why I bought pro and then Upgraded the S@#$ out of it. Every Upgrade from titanium to aluminium is on the car now. New LRP ESC Novak Ballistic 17.5 RadioPost servo. Its come together very well and im still working on the fine tuning aspect of it now. It runs like a bat out of hell now!

But I do need to ask all ta06 owners a question??? What setup is everyone running on carpet? droop, camber, ride height.... etc? im having to adjust from my cyclone due to the weight distribuation in the back from front. any help would be appreciated thanks.
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Old 10-15-2011, 05:16 AM   #934
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I have run once so far, on foams and carpet but here goes.

Shocks
Front - TA05 kit springs (silver), 40wt 3 holes, kit positions on shock tower and wishbones.
Rear - TA06 kit springs, 35wt 3 holes, kit positions.

Suspension
Front - D blocks FF + FR, kit steering pickups and shims, 1.25' camber, 0' toe, 5mm ride height, small amount of droop.
Rear - RF - A, RR - D, 5.5mm ride height, slightly more droop than rear, 1.75' camber.

Diffs, 70wt shock oil rear, 3000wt front.

Mods, bracing for the front of chassis.

Car drove awesome.
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:53 PM   #935
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I'm looking for a tad more steering thru mid/off corner. I'm at the edge of loose in fast sweepers. I really dont want to mess the car up. It's pretty good, just looking for a bit more aggressiveness late corner.

Sweep32 tires on mid trac ozite.
PF LTC-r body
HW Jusstock ESC/17.5 DUO

Springs F-white R-yellow 40wt f/r
camber 2.00 all around
box setup link positions
5.0 mm ride front/rear
2.5 mm droop front/rear
F 1.0 toe out R 2.5 toe in
Diffs F-500k R-5k
Custom right side servo mod.

I'm not real good with link positions. I want to try 300k diff. Maybe a touch of drag brake to help set the front end? Any suggestions would be cool.
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:58 PM   #936
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What bodies are you running guys?
I have recently purchased a TB03 just to have the GARAIYA body, but I am wondering what bodies you use. This is going to be an RCGT car at first (and I am debating selling the TB03 now NIB)

Also, During the instructions, it calls for some thread locker gel. Can I use the blue tread locker liquid often times used for nitro cars? Do you need thread locker in an electric car?

I remember building my mugen and only using it for the motor and motor block that attaches to the chassis.
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:41 PM   #937
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I tryed this today and it was very good.
50wt front blue spring
40wt rear yellow spring
spool
very soft grease in the rear diff
camper 0 in every corner

17.5t lrp x12
jusstock esc

HPI vintage tires

I tryed the diff with 500.000 oil in but it was so much slower than the spool.

Jerzi
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Old 10-16-2011, 12:57 PM   #938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC112b View Post
I'm looking for a tad more steering thru mid/off corner. I'm at the edge of loose in fast sweepers. I really dont want to mess the car up. It's pretty good, just looking for a bit more aggressiveness late corner.

Sweep32 tires on mid trac ozite.
PF LTC-r body
HW Jusstock ESC/17.5 DUO

Springs F-white R-yellow 40wt f/r
camber 2.00 all around
box setup link positions
5.0 mm ride front/rear
2.5 mm droop front/rear
F 1.0 toe out R 2.5 toe in
Diffs F-500k R-5k
Custom right side servo mod.

I'm not real good with link positions. I want to try 300k diff. Maybe a touch of drag brake to help set the front end? Any suggestions would be cool.
Try to use the same spring lb front and rear as it will make the car turn more in the middle and exit of the corner and under accelerating. Also 50wt oil in front and a shorter camberlink in front. It will give more steering.

Last edited by wtcc; 10-16-2011 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 10-16-2011, 04:49 PM   #939
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Our local track has started up a VTA/RCGT class and I am considering joining in. This car seems to be a lot like a JRXS-R and am curious if I should just pick one up or a TA06 Pro. I know the JRXS is discontinued but parts are still available. I also know Tamiya likes to discontinue its cars rather quickly as well...

What I like about the TA06 is that you can run the shocks in front down or upright like regular TC cars. W/ that being said what is mandatory in terms of upgrades for the TA06?

Thanks!
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Old 10-16-2011, 06:36 PM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
What bodies are you running guys?
I have recently purchased a TB03 just to have the GARAIYA body, but I am wondering what bodies you use. This is going to be an RCGT car at first (and I am debating selling the TB03 now NIB)

Also, During the instructions, it calls for some thread locker gel. Can I use the blue tread locker liquid often times used for nitro cars? Do you need thread locker in an electric car?

I remember building my mugen and only using it for the motor and motor block that attaches to the chassis.
I'm using a BMW GT3 body from tamiya also running a Lamborghini body. I have a dodge stratus body and Mazda 3 when I'm not running those I find more control and faster lap times. I didn't use thread locker on my shocks didn't find it necessary and it's great.
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Old 10-16-2011, 07:36 PM   #941
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^ thanks.

BTW im looking to get this for RCGT:
http://www.kopropo.com/america/index...145&Itemid=186

what do you guys think? Eventually if I build an F1 I can put this in it and get something else for TC?
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Old 10-16-2011, 09:14 PM   #942
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Originally Posted by Profoxcg View Post
^ thanks.

BTW im looking to get this for RCGT:
http://www.kopropo.com/america/index...145&Itemid=186

what do you guys think? Eventually if I build an F1 I can put this in it and get something else for TC?
Ive never delt with there products before so I have no idea. looks like a good setup but some tracks will require the actual turn of the motor to be either stickered of stamnped on the exterior of the motor. like my 17.5 novak ballistics has the sticker around it. Just look for good electronics because once you buy a great setup you wont have to buy again unless you choose to move to a lower turn motor for mod class. I have an LRP esc pricey but it will last forever until the next big thing.
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:39 AM   #943
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtcc View Post
Try to use the same spring lb front and rear as it will make the car turn more in the middle and exit of the corner and under accelerating. Also 50wt oil in front and a shorter camberlink in front. It will give more steering.
I would have to strongly disagree. the rear on this car is much heavier than the front, yet it is pretty balanced.

Im running the Rayspeed white springs in the rear(~17lbs) and the tamiya kit yellow ones (~14) in the front. I was running the tamiya blue rears, but I like the rear sliding a bit more for me.

im running a solid front spool, rear ball diff, 2.5* toe in the rear, .5* camber in the rear and 1.25 camber in the front.

My front end grip is unrivaled with the Tamiya NSX body(for the IFS).
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:46 AM   #944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC112b View Post
Where do you get the low friction belts? I haven't seen kawada stuff in US stores.
banzai hobby. No one in the us sells kawada. I got the battery holder also.
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:48 AM   #945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA_cookie_monst View Post
Mods, bracing for the front of chassis.


please share. I need more stiffness! I Ordered the graphite uprights and diff cases.
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