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Old 10-08-2011, 01:31 PM   #901
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hahaha
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Old 10-10-2011, 12:18 AM   #902
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just found out...

TA05 and TA06 Direct Coupling are the same except for some material milled out (weight savings?) and an additional hole on either side for the pin holding the outdrives...
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:22 AM   #903
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just found out...

TA05 and TA06 Direct Coupling are the same except for some material milled out (weight savings?) and an additional hole on either side for the pin holding the outdrives...
And the pulley size and the shape of the outdrives
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:53 AM   #904
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And the pulley size and the shape of the outdrives
oh yes... forgot to mention that... 39t for the TA06 and 36/37t for the TA05... TA05 outdrives have 2 pairs of slots while the TA06 only has a pair...


but otherwise, both are interchangeable... (just swap in the pulley of the correct size needed)
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Old 10-10-2011, 11:36 AM   #905
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
oh yes... forgot to mention that... 39t for the TA06 and 36/37t for the TA05... TA05 outdrives have 2 pairs of slots while the TA06 only has a pair...


but otherwise, both are interchangeable... (just swap in the pulley of the correct size needed)
But why go through all that trouble? Why not just buy the RIGHT (and lighter) piece?
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:50 PM   #906
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But why go through all that trouble? Why not just buy the RIGHT (and lighter) piece?

coz i use to run a Ta05v2. when i sold it i forgot i still had a center piece of the direct coupling lying around the house. when i was about to install my TA06 direct coupling i found it and started to compare the 2...

i guess the whole point is for those who have/had the TA05 and are switching to the TA06, they can save a few bucks by just buying the 39T pulley instead of the whole direct coupling assembly. had i known earlier this is probably what i would have done.

also since the TA05's outdrives has 2 pairs of slots, its like having an "extra" pair of outdrives in case you wear out the first set of slots...
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Old 10-10-2011, 09:24 PM   #907
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Default While waiting for my kit to arrive...

I was looking at some threads of Ta05 and TB03 and I noticed some of those cars have "gun metal" TRF FLUORINE COATED dampers/ # 53571.

How do these compare to blue ones that come on the TA06 PRO and even on the TA05 Pro.
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:03 AM   #908
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
i guess the whole point is for those who have/had the TA05 and are switching to the TA06, they can save a few bucks by just buying the 39T pulley instead of the whole direct coupling assembly. had i known earlier this is probably what i would have done.
And you're right cause I am exactly the guy who had a TA05 with front direct drive useless now until you give us this info.
--> THANK YOU a lot !!!

Perhaps just one thing : Do you know the reference number of the 39T pulley for direct coupling ?

Thanks a lot again...
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:13 AM   #909
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I downloaded the building manual from tamiya.
I noticed the to setup toe in the front and the rear we need to switch out some pieces?

how hard is this to do on the track? Also, If i read the drawings correctly it states that the kit comes with one set for a specific setup. If you want anything other than that, for example more toe-in, you have to purchase the optional parts?

also please correct me if I am wrong, but these suspension blocks are interchangeable between ta05 -ta06 and tb03 ?
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:02 AM   #910
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I downloaded the building manual from tamiya.
I noticed the to setup toe in the front and the rear we need to switch out some pieces?

how hard is this to do on the track? Also, If i read the drawings correctly it states that the kit comes with one set for a specific setup. If you want anything other than that, for example more toe-in, you have to purchase the optional parts?

also please correct me if I am wrong, but these suspension blocks are interchangeable between ta05 -ta06 and tb03 ?
For the rear of the car yes u need to buy more suspension blocks to adjust toe for the front if u have a toe gauge u can adjust toe by adjusting the steering turnbuckles. At the track its a bit of a procedure to be switching out blocks especiallly the rear inners
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:40 AM   #911
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Quick note: all the Tamiya suspension blocks work on all their cars that use them. All the way back to the 414. I believe Tamiya makes all their shocks flourine coated. Which in theory are smoother than the original. But, on the track I never noticed a difference.

NOTE: IF YOUR WAITING FOR A GRAPHITE CHASSIS, EXOTECK WILL BE THE ONE TO BUY. It's awesome.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:49 PM   #912
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NOTE: IF YOUR WAITING FOR A GRAPHITE CHASSIS, EXOTECK WILL BE THE ONE TO BUY. It's awesome.
eta?
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:34 PM   #913
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eta?
Wish I knew the exact date. But, its got to be real soon. It makes the car capable to win at all levels.
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:31 AM   #914
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After using mine, for the first time the other weekend, running foams on carpet, the only mods being alloy suspension blocks and some turnbuckles to brace the front bulkheads to the main chassis, and I could find no fault in the car, I even managed to run it without sway bars. Traction out of corners was awesome and so much grip, I would be hard pushed to find a reason to upgrade the chassis, currently.
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Old 10-12-2011, 12:42 AM   #915
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nice, just what I wanted to hear.
BTW what suspension block would you guys recommend to have?

I am having a hard time understanding the instruction on how they change toe.
Apparently the stock M6 and M5 pieces can give you either 1.5 or 2.5 toe in when paired with the stock 1D block?

What do they mean by " Rear axle (0deg) + Suspension Mount (2.5) ??



the only thing that I can think of is that when the M6 and M5 are set to 1xa /1xa they take away 1.0deg from the value of the suspension mount?

for example if you set the car to 1xa/1xa + 1D they you will have 2.5deg toe. However, if you keep the 1D and flip the 1xa/1xa so that you end up with 1A/1A + 1D you will have 1.0deg of toe-in... is this correct? or how wrong am I?
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