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Old 09-26-2011, 11:55 AM   #841
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Originally Posted by jerzi View Post
Can someone tell my wy in earth tamiya wanted the esc on the right side.
Jerzi
maybe to keep the moving servo horn away from the moving belt.. and allowing for the servo(s) to be mounted closer to centerline..
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:13 PM   #842
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maybe to keep the moving servo horn away from the moving belt.. and allowing for the servo(s) to be mounted closer to centerline..
Exactly. And brushed escs and brushed motors from back in the day weighed about as much as the servo, 6cell battery and transponder.

Fast forward 8 years, everything is lighter and we can play more with weight distribution.
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Old 09-26-2011, 02:51 PM   #843
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Is the servo on that side because you can wire the esc better.
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
tutorial on how to do the servo placement please! I have tons of wires and I need to lose more weight!

Yeah, we need a lil better look at that. I am totally diggin that.
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:03 PM   #844
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tutorial on how to do the servo placement please! I have tons of wires and I need to lose more weight!
For the servo swap, I used HurricaneSonic's post here

Depending on your servo(S9550), you can put the servo facing the way I did it under the belt. You can also put spacers under the front belt pulley to raise the center belt to clear the servo.

I debated to put the esc closer to the motor, but for weight distribution, I thought it might be better to line it up with the servo. I dropped about 8g(TQ 13ga) of wire from the swap.

I used the carbon batt holder which dropped another 11g or so, and the CF shock towers another 8g. And the 1370g is with the transponder installed. I use a Genace 5000mah 40C batt with a LW LTC body. I could save another 10g if I switch to the tamiya foam bumper, but that parma one saved my front end so many times I can't let it go now lol.
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Last edited by inpuressa; 09-26-2011 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 09-26-2011, 03:31 PM   #845
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
For the servo swap, I used HurricaneSonic's post here

Depending on your servo(S9550), you can put the servo facing the way I did it under the belt. You can also put spacers under the front belt pulley to raise the center belt to clear the servo.

I debated to put the esc closer to the motor, but for weight distribution, I thought it might be better to line it up with the servo. I dropped about 8g(TQ 13ga) of wire from the swap.

I used the carbon batt holder which dropped another 11g or so, and the CF shock towers another 8g. And the 1370g is with the transponder installed. I use a Genace 5000mah 40C batt with a LW LTC body. I could save another 10g if I switch to the tamiya foam bumper, but that parma one saved my front end so many times I can't let it go now lol.
how is the steering setup?are the uprights and center connector just flipped? The arm would be a tad higher and the bridge would be above the arms instead of below... I cant wait til I get home. Im just upset that I got the alum parts and I may not be able to use them!
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Last edited by silverhkswrx; 09-26-2011 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:04 PM   #846
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
For the servo swap, I used HurricaneSonic's post here

Depending on your servo(S9550), you can put the servo facing the way I did it under the belt. You can also put spacers under the front belt pulley to raise the center belt to clear the servo.

I debated to put the esc closer to the motor, but for weight distribution, I thought it might be better to line it up with the servo. I dropped about 8g(TQ 13ga) of wire from the swap.

I used the carbon batt holder which dropped another 11g or so, and the CF shock towers another 8g. And the 1370g is with the transponder installed. I use a Genace 5000mah 40C batt with a LW LTC body. I could save another 10g if I switch to the tamiya foam bumper, but that parma one saved my front end so many times I can't let it go now lol.
I also think you are over looking the fact of the extra "servo support" plastic, misc screws, sensor wire and such.

Please let me know how it handles (differently than the factory setup)

There HAS to be a reason they reccomend running the wires through the belt...your and sonic's setup seems superior, but I trust Tamiya's R&D.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:20 PM   #847
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
how is the steering setup?are the uprights and center connector just flipped? The arm would be a tad higher and the bridge would be above the arms instead of below... I cant wait til I get home. Im just upset that I got the alum parts and I may not be able to use them!
The only piece the needs to be modded is the side with that connects to the servo. You are essentially flipping that piece over, and hacking it with the dremel cutting wheel. I then used various alum spacers/shims to get the proper height back. Hard to explain, but I was able to do everything by looking at the link I provided.
And yeah, now I have an alum steering set sitting around You should be able to use the center bridge though.

There are some little tid bits of things I did to it, so I'll post a close up later today.
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Last edited by inpuressa; 09-26-2011 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:23 PM   #848
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Ahhhhh I see it now. Very interesting.... I may draw something up tomorrow, if I can grip it without making a couple fixtures I may try making one out of aluminum. If it goes real good I'll make some spares. Let me first check and see what my machine center schedule looks like. Cool man.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:28 PM   #849
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Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
I also think you are over looking the fact of the extra "servo support" plastic, misc screws, sensor wire and such.

Please let me know how it handles (differently than the factory setup)

There HAS to be a reason they reccomend running the wires through the belt...your and sonic's setup seems superior, but I trust Tamiya's R&D.
I bet it is to clear the issue of placing a mechanical part right next to a running belt. The car is pretty rear biased so the servo needed to be up front. So as a consumer product, the servo had to be placed in the safest logical location. I was lucky to be able to fit my servo under the belt, but if you can't, the servo will stick out too much, even with a low profile one.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:31 PM   #850
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someone has the carbon lower deck in stock...


http://www.ebay.com/itm/54316-TAMIYA...item2eb80a5d5c
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:40 PM   #851
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
I bet it is to clear the issue of placing a mechanical part right next to a running belt. The car is pretty rear biased so the servo needed to be up front. So as a consumer product, the servo had to be placed in the safest logical location. I was lucky to be able to fit my servo under the belt, but if you can't, the servo will stick out too much, even with a low profile one.
hmm.... I may just stick with the current layout. Im just running RCGT. 7 grams wont make that much of a difference, espically since im running a modded and TCS banned nsx body.
Any flat section(behind the front wheels and rear wheels) has been cut out to reduce any drag. I would be surprized with the Tamiya (also banned from TCS) rear wing wont handle better than the Mazda6 body... I have so much front grip its insane!
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:39 PM   #852
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Here are close up pics of the steering piece. I needed a longer screw, so I got one and shaved the hex head down so it clears the chassis. The large washer is to act as a substitute for the widened part that got flipped over. Using this helped with the slop.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya Ta06-ta0603.jpg   Tamiya Ta06-ta0604.jpg  
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Old 09-27-2011, 01:19 AM   #853
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just sharing... was toying around with a keychain camera and decided to mount it on my TA06. tried it on the local track to see if i could get some "1st person" vids...


CamCar:
TA06 PRO
13.5 Boosted/Tekin

Subjects:
TB03 x 2 (Silver/Orange and Yellow)
- Tamiya TBLE 12T sensorless (TAC-legal)

FF03 (Orange)
- Tamiya TBLE 16T


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Old 09-27-2011, 04:53 AM   #854
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
Here are close up pics of the steering piece. I needed a longer screw, so I got one and shaved the hex head down so it clears the chassis. The large washer is to act as a substitute for the widened part that got flipped over. Using this helped with the slop.
Nice! It's amazing what we will counter engineer for 7 grams.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:10 AM   #855
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Nice! It's amazing what we will counter engineer for 7 grams.
lol true. but 7g is one piece of those lead weights. plus, all that wire clutter is off the top the chassis, so I think the CoG went down a bit too. Not that I can tell a difference with my skills The next race is about two weeks from now. Will report then.
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