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Old 07-17-2011, 07:43 PM   #511
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Having been the proud owner of numerous HPI Pro 3's over the years, including one of the first into the UK, I always found the chassis to have to much longitudinal flex, basically with the graphite battery bar the belts were to tight and there was no way to relieve it. We constructed a bracing bar to run from front to rear with 4mm (2mm thickness) carbon fibre Rod with liquid metal in the end capturing some threaded rod to which we attached plastic ball cups (the open type. This allowed us to adjust very slightly the tension on the belts, but another unforeseen benefit was the complete lack of longitudinal flex. The Pro 3 was designed to flex and the sideways flex was always useful on cold asphalt tracks, by using a single rod you cut out the longitudinal flex but keep the lateral flex that is designed into the car.

Step forward 12 years or so and I now have the TA06, took one look at the way the font box section was flexing when giving minimal pressure to the belt and have decided to do the same again.

take a look at the pic and you will notice that I have used the front Shock mount stay to attach a ball end, and have drilled the read shock tower to accept another ball end, once the rod turns up from the place I have ordered it from will repeat the Pro 3 trick and do away with the longitudinal flex while keeping the lateral flex built into the car. Using ball ends allows a tiny bit of 'give' so that the chassis is not rigid in an accident also the rod seems to transfer a lot of crash energy to the rear shock stay so it may even protect the chassis somewhat.

Will post a pic of the completed job once it's finished, but I have one question, could someone post up the build /modification for the placement of the servo on the Right hand side of the chassis, I have placed the servo to the rear of the car on the right to check clearances etc. and intend to use a long Pro 3 steering linkage for the task as this shallows down the angle for the servo.
nice idea on the long rod, it must help a lot on this soft plastic chassis...

seems only mine is modified to be RHS servo, pls wait and see if I can take some pics when I rebuild the car...
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:29 PM   #512
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mine using a 5.5T and ran for 2 days, only need to replace rear gear diff...
Only? That's a pricey part! I think I'll wait for the bugs to be worked out before I consider buying one of these. Does take me back to the TA03 days though....
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Old 07-17-2011, 10:34 PM   #513
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sorry to hear that but that all seems to be problems on building up...

mine using a 5.5T and ran for 2 days, only need to replace rear gear diff...

try shimming and remove space on the pulley holder(front 18T)
bevel gears or the whole gear diff?

never heard of a gear diff going off so quick.
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:31 AM   #514
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Only? That's a pricey part! I think I'll wait for the bugs to be worked out before I consider buying one of these. Does take me back to the TA03 days though....
yes, except some options...

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bevel gears or the whole gear diff?
never heard of a gear diff going off so quick.
bevel gears only, the housing still like new...
http://trackstarrc.com/trackstar/ind...d=63&Itemid=89
he is right, I follow the manual and seems that it got too much spacing...
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Old 07-18-2011, 12:26 PM   #515
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Originally Posted by Hurricane Sonic View Post
yes, except some options...


bevel gears only, the housing still like new...
http://trackstarrc.com/trackstar/ind...d=63&Itemid=89
he is right, I follow the manual and seems that it got too much spacing...
Will an extra shim on both sides help?
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Old 07-18-2011, 01:25 PM   #516
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yes, except some options...


bevel gears only, the housing still like new...
http://trackstarrc.com/trackstar/ind...d=63&Itemid=89
he is right, I follow the manual and seems that it got too much spacing...
When I used all three, the diff got too tight.
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:10 PM   #517
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my ball diff is working just fine
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Old 07-18-2011, 02:39 PM   #518
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so most touring car are going from kit ball diff to aftermarket gear diffs.

and you are going from kit gear diff, to ball diff.

why would you do that? Do you find the car easier to drive with ball diffs? What about front spool?
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Old 07-18-2011, 03:19 PM   #519
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Originally Posted by fastbynature View Post
so most touring car are going from kit ball diff to aftermarket gear diffs.

and you are going from kit gear diff, to ball diff.

why would you do that?
On very high traction situations, you can use a gear diff with no issues. On less traction situations like a prepped parking lot track, the ball diff provides more rear bite.

I would test both and see what you prefer. Here in Socal, this is what we have found, over and over again to no fail.
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:25 PM   #520
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Will an extra shim on both sides help?
Quote:
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When I used all three, the diff got too tight.
I install 3 shims on both side, just fit, will test on Sat...
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Old 07-18-2011, 11:16 PM   #521
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I install 3 shims on both side, just fit, will test on Sat...
I'm glad some people read "how to" articles
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:19 AM   #522
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great stuff, had that page on my laptop under my whole car build yesterday, thanks for the tips!
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Old 07-19-2011, 06:42 AM   #523
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Just wondering if people are honestly noticing any difference in the accleration of the TA06 with the geared rear transmission? I think it's a great idea in principle, especially for stock racing...I just hope it carries over to the track!

Cheers
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:16 AM   #524
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still having problems with the car not tracking straight. I know how to setup a car, this car is setup perfect. Really weird as I cannot trace it down to anything in particular.
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:21 AM   #525
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still having problems with the car not tracking straight. I know how to setup a car, this car is setup perfect. Really weird as I cannot trace it down to anything in particular.
I'm no expert but the times I have encountered that situation it usually came down to servo or servo saver...
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