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Old 04-14-2014, 02:21 PM   #2431
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What electronics will you be getting?
Does the motor fit?
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Old 04-14-2014, 03:39 PM   #2432
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I've got a novak ballistic in mine. Needed some mild trimming of chassis or upper support. I did the same trim on both sides to make it even, haven't noticed any change in flex.

Best bet is anything with a rear set of tabs (like speed passion v3.0) or at the very least, stand up "U" style (LRP, Reedy) and not bent blades (like the Novak)

You can also get 3mm spacers to help out - tamiya (54129), yeah racing and other make suitable ones. I also understand the alloy upper stiffeners (54373) provide a tiny bit more clearance.

Tekin gen1 are also a longer can and fit.
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Old 04-14-2014, 07:41 PM   #2433
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You can also put a spacer like this one between the motor and motor mount.

http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-tb03d-a...h=595_744_1229
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:33 AM   #2434
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can anyone point me towards the right pinion gear or a good start point for a standard 540 silver can on a indoor medium sized carpet track? the manual suggests 23T.
should i just get this and see how it goes?

also not sure if this has been posted but i found a youtube series where someone builds a ta06 pro, pretty basic, but nice as a starting point if this is your first TC:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHwnzjsUZIo
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:30 PM   #2435
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Hey guys,

After reading through many pages in this thread, I decided to get a TA06 PRO. It has arrived, been built already, and drifts great using the default setup, with the addition of drift tires of course. I've had it for 2 weeks so far.

Building the TA06 PRO was tedious, and had some questionable design decisions. This is my first kit car so that could be the reason. But after following the intructions very carefully, and following JANG's video tutorial (as mentioned by "atomic garden" above), the car gives solid performance, and was worth the build. I even smashed it into a concrete wall and flipped it, still going strong.

There are 2 frustrating problems. That is the cable management around the drive belt, near the ESC, is difficult to keep clear of the belt. And to keep the cables clear, i had to bend them in awkward ways, which caused the ESC to keep pealing off of it's double-sided tape mount. I resorted to mounting the ESC on top of the battery tray (will show pics soon). I hope that doesn't cause the car to be too off balanced.

The second problem is that both front and rear gear diff's keep leaking oil. I mean, in less than 2 hours run time, you can open the diffs and find absolutely no oil. I followed the instructions, lubed up the O-rings and diff gasket, still leaking. I see someone posted a link to a tutorial using "Anti-wear grease" that gets put on the O-rings and gasket.

I have a few questions about diff upgrades too...

I locked my rear diff with Blue-tak (after running out of oil hahaha) and i like the performance of how it drifts now. I was thinking of upgrading to a diff that does not leak oil.

Rear diff options include: Fill standard gear diff with 300k weight oil so it nearly feels locked, a Spool (it's also called a Direct Coupling), or a ball diff.

What do you guys think for drifting? I like the feel of my locked diff.

Front diff options include: Direct coupling, Front One Way (i heard is good for technical circuit drifting, and gives you the ability to use the brake as an e-brake/hand-brake, but is tough to master), or alternatively use the standard gear diff, with a different weight oil.

Which should i get?

EDIT: Also there are center pulley one-ways to complicate things further. TECH racing makes one.
EDIT: There is also a rear pulley one-way!
If i wanted the front wheels to be one-way, should i get the front diff one-way, center pulley one-way, or rear pulley one-way? I don't see much point in using all 3 or 2 of those together. Thinking of just a front one-way diff.

I'm thinking of buying from RCMART in Hong Kong, because I'm in Australia and postage is better. They have a huge selection of stuff too.

So yeah, a couple of annoyances, but I'm enjoying the TA06 PRO's performance so far. Will posts pics and Specs on my electric's soon.

Last edited by DAT TA06Drifter; 04-21-2014 at 01:52 AM. Reason: more info
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:59 AM   #2436
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a few pages ago cplus, advised to use these o-rings instead, they are slightly thicker than the stock ones:

The TRF o-rings: 42259
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Old 04-21-2014, 07:07 AM   #2437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomic garden View Post
What electronics will you be getting?
Does the motor fit?
If you're asking me, I have gotten a Yokomo Zero 10.5T Brushless, with a BL-Pro 3, a Max Concept 5300 mAh Li-Po battery and a Xcore Razer Servo. The motor mount is a little bit of a pain, had to file of some of the motor hold for the wires have some space. Got a set of drift tires for it, and it drifts just fine, default set up, no CS. Love it.
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Old 04-22-2014, 01:41 AM   #2438
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[QUOTE=atomic garden;13201284]a few pages ago cplus, advised to use these o-rings instead, they are slightly thicker than the stock ones:

The TRF o-rings: 42259

Thanks, i will check that out too.
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Old 04-22-2014, 02:20 AM   #2439
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Upload pic fail damnit...

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Old 05-14-2014, 07:17 AM   #2440
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so i finally finished my TA06R, i got a Subaru brz body with it

i had no major problems, I broke one of the big bearings on the front gear diff when trying to push it on, the fit was very tight and the bearing doesn't like too much pressure, so i had to wait for new ones before i could try the car.

also if you want to replace all the plastic spacers with more precise aluminium ones, you will need 3 sets of :
http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...m-spacer-53539

i had two sets and ran out of 1mm spacers

it measures 1380g on the scale, that is with titanium screws, tamiya lf3700 life battery, 540j motor, 302bk esc and sanwa bps version2 servo.

at home it runs smooth, but can't really push it because of limited space, will try it out on the track this week, and report back here:



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Old 05-16-2014, 12:06 AM   #2441
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Oh, I thought I killed the thread when I joined haha.

It's a TA06R? Must be new. I will look up the differences of that vs TA06 PRO.

What rims and tires are those? I always got the cheap ebay stuff, but now i want something good now that i have a TA06 PRO. If they are the Tamiya one's that come with your kit, then what rims and drift/grip tires do people generally run on smooth to medium concrete/tarmac?

Anyways, nice cable management. Did you get brushed so it is race legal? Or just not ready for brushless yet? Personally, i didn't bother installing the spur and pinion guard.

I looked up some titanium screw set before for the TA06, it was like $35!
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Old 05-16-2014, 10:45 AM   #2442
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Main difference with the pro are the arms from trf418, the plastic parts are carbon reinforced, carbon damper stays and steel hex screws.

I got the titanium screws, but I have to say prob not with the price. Not sure how much a few grams of weight is worth.

The wheels are http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...els-4pcs-84247 and the tires are tamiya medium narrow radials : http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...al-tires-51023

Dish wheels or the more simple white ones are prob better (lighter) from a performance pov but I wanted nice looking wheels to go with my body I am going to try these next : http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...els-2pcs-84357.

I have the brushed engine to start out in a stock series, it's my very first tc and I need to learn a lot.

I really don't like the servo mount in the car, it's awkward to work on and doesn't hold my sanwa servo very well. Does anyone have an alternative?

I drove the car for the first time on a large carpet track yesterday, it drove really nice and I had no major problems.
I tried the 23t and 26t pinion and it did feel a little slow. But maybe the stock silver engine can't go a lot faster. I also had no point of reference as the other cars on track where from a brushless series.

What gearing do others use/ advice?

Last edited by atomic garden; 05-21-2014 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 05-16-2014, 04:29 PM   #2443
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I've got a 13.5t in mine, so comparison is a bit pointless.

However, I'm running a smaller spur (66) and 29t pinion. FDR around 4.9
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:37 AM   #2444
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Thanks for the info Atomic Garden. I just remembered i have a 26 tooth pinion laying around that I haven't tried out yet.

I'm using the stock pinion & spurs.

Also, regarding that problem I had previously with oil leakage, i decided to eliminate the use of oil completely.

If I'm doing grip racing, I would buy them red o-rings and some of that anti-wear grease to put around the diff gasket and those o-rings.

However, at the moment I am drifting it, so i got a spool/direct coupling at the rear, and a one-way diff at the front. Both do not need oil, so no more leakages!

One-way was a hefty $44, but I like how my car can now do hairpin turns with the one-way, as if it has a hand brake/e-break. At the moment it whips around a little too violently when i apply the brakes, so I'm going to reduce break force with the ESC, so the rear doesn't swing out too fast. Maybe play around with drag brake and initial brake force while I'm at it.

If you have watched some vids on youtube of RC cars drifting then sliding into a gap to park perfectly, they most likely have a one-way. I was wondering why I couldn't pull off some stunts before, thought it was just my driving skill.

How many damn posts until i get to post pictures?!
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Old 05-18-2014, 03:04 AM   #2445
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Are you also under driving the front wheels? Ie: counter steer?

I'm going to set up my TA06 as a drifter as well. I've got a 418 and they are chalk and cheese on the track. The 418 is miles ahead. No comparison. Leaving it as a grip car, I can't see myself ever using it again now, so might as well drift it!

I'm thinking front one way and some mild CS via a rear pulley change to start (can get a 16t on there easy), plus either locking my ball diff somehow or filling a gear diff with putty. I've got a spool for the front end in it now, I guess that will go in the spares box!
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