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Old 03-12-2014, 07:40 PM   #2401
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just to add, use the hop-up red/orange o-ring for the gear diff (forgot the pn) along with the .3mm shim that comes with the 417v5... less prone to leaking especially for the rear
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Old 03-12-2014, 08:01 PM   #2402
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I'm 1/2 way done...

Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post
- Tap all your threads. Especially if you have the optional carbon stuff.

It's not too bad using the stock screws. Definitely tap the holes that get balstuds/set screws


- Mounting the motor is a right pita unless it is rear terminals or you get an extra spacer - even then not all motors will work without trimming.

Funny enough, I have one from a 1/8 still

- Get a 5.5mm spacer set or two. The plastic tree spacers are not great. Especially for the arms. Not so bad under the camber balls etc, but I did all of them.

I bought 1. I should have bought 2


- The rear hub camber ball mount is just plain odd with an extra add on piece of tree, two screws and a grub.

Get a TA06MS manual and build it like that instead.

Apart from a different order(front then back), I don't see the difference

- look very closely at shims in the manual. Easy to miss them.

- use the one extra shim in each side of the gear diff(s) they are too sloppy otherwise.

I have to take it back appart when I get shims...

- on the diff subject, don't sand the gears too much to remove the sprues, if you do, use vernier a to make sure they are equal.

I used a file. It just took off the outer edges

Any other tips from me would be generic like use a little moly when assembling turnbuckles for easier adjustment.
It's amazing how many people still don't do this...
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Originally Posted by Mitamiya View Post
Do you have a part number on the 5.5 spacer set? Waiting for my option parts to arrive to begin building as well.
What is the livery you are going with on that Ferrari 599 body CPLUS?
Whitrzac, sounds like you are about a week ahead of me in the build process. Please post a few pics if you get the time. Good luck and enjoy.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:31 PM   #2403
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Do you have a part number on the 5.5 spacer set? Waiting for my option parts to arrive to begin building as well.
What is the livery you are going with on that Ferrari 599 body CPLUS?
Whitrzac, sounds like you are about a week ahead of me in the build process. Please post a few pics if you get the time. Good luck and enjoy.
Just using the stock 599XX stickers. So will look like the box art of the 599XX kit.

The 5.5mm spacers are 53539


Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
just to add, use the hop-up red/orange o-ring for the gear diff (forgot the pn) along with the .3mm shim that comes with the 417v5... less prone to leaking especially for the rear
The TRF o-rings are 42259


the 0.3mm shim would be easier, I had 12 of the 0.1mm come with my kit, so enough to pack front and rear out by 0.3mm per side. The 0.3mm shim is a special order part number only, so not readily available. Even the TRF gear diff kit comes with 0.1mm shims I think.

Last edited by cplus; 03-12-2014 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:46 PM   #2404
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Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
Apart from a different order(front then back), I don't see the difference
I'm referring to this


Compared to the much more simple and direct method below from the MS



No idea why they added part N20?

Last edited by cplus; 03-12-2014 at 09:59 PM.
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:51 PM   #2405
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I had no intention of using that contraption

when the manual calls for the .7mm spacers in the front C hub/knuckle, am I suppose to use the silver .5mm or the blue 1mm shims?

Part ### for the inner bearing for the DCJ shafts? It's a 5x10x3 bearing



6hrs in, I'm just starting to build the shocks....
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:01 PM   #2406
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problem with the 0.1mm shims is that it tends to cone with use (even when stacked). once the shims cone they tighten the diff up making it less consistent.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:38 PM   #2407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
I had no intention of using that contraption
I'm sure there is a reason. Just no idea what it is. Might be a legacy part?

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
when the manual calls for the .7mm spacers in the front C hub/knuckle, am I suppose to use the silver .5mm or the blue 1mm shims?
Their is a specific 0.7mm spacer in the kit - not plastic.

Or, better yet, use this. much better the top hat with a shim.


Note, if you use the 6deg hubs, you do away with it apparently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
Part ### for the inner bearing for the DCJ shafts? It's a 5x10x3 bearing
42220

Mine came in the hopup bag for the DCJ shafts....?

You should honestly download the TA06MS manual. I had a copy of it next to me with the Pro one as in the end my car had as much in common with that as it did the Pro compared to a std TA06.

It gives you all the dimensions for the spacers rather than getting a vernier to the plastic bits to work it out as well the specifics for the DCJ's, spool, ARB's and a few other nuances.

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitrzac View Post
6hrs in, I'm just starting to build the shocks....
Got slime or VG Grease?

Use a 0.1mm shim between the e-ring and the piston (underneath) to get rid of the slop. You don't need to for IFS mode, but do for all 4 if you stand them up.
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:41 PM   #2408
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
problem with the 0.1mm shims is that it tends to cone with use (even when stacked). once the shims cone they tighten the diff up making it less consistent.
Good point. How can you buy them though? I've heard of a brand called TDX, but can't seem to find them anywhere.

Know another brand or anyone that stocks the tamiya ones?

The tamiya part number is 19804536
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:55 PM   #2409
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I am going to sell my ta06 pro chassis on ebay, whats a good fair starting price for a roller?

Saving up for a new Tamiya
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:52 AM   #2410
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I am going to sell my ta06 pro chassis on ebay, whats a good fair starting price for a roller?

Saving up for a new Tamiya
Purely as per kit?

No electronics at all and no hop ups?

Body? Tyres?

You'd need to factor in that you can get one delivered to your door for under $250, despite the fact that you won't see them stickered for less than $400 in Aus on a shelf (if you could find one that is)

Having said that, mint condition per kit only, I reckon you would be looking at circa $100.

There is a bloke trying to get $200 for his car set up as a drifter (non pro) with electrics at the moment and I think he's got Buckley's chance personally.
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:27 AM   #2411
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What bag does the .7mm shims come in?
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:52 AM   #2412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cplus View Post

Mine came in the hopup bag for the DCJ shafts....?

You should honestly download the TA06MS manual. I had a copy of it next to me with the Pro one as in the end my car had as much in common with that as it did the Pro compared to a std TA06.

It gives you all the dimensions for the spacers rather than getting a vernier to the plastic bits to work it out as well the specifics for the DCJ's, spool, ARB's and a few other nuances.



Use a 0.1mm shim between the e-ring and the piston (underneath) to get rid of the slop. You don't need to for IFS mode, but do for all 4 if you stand them up.

It's a non standard size bearing, I would like to have spares...


The ta06ms manual is 98% identical, just has a different kit setup.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:14 PM   #2413
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Selling a ta06 pro with tons of upgrades. Pm for details if interested
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:21 AM   #2414
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Default TA06 pro with overdose steering components

This is my TA06 Pro that was set up for drifting. Got a lot of money into it but well worth it.







http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...haser-body.jpg
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:17 AM   #2415
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The TA06R just went on sale here in tokyo (am on vacation)
Rc champ is selling it for 25600 yen (180 euro, 250 usd)
Am very tempted to go buy 1 tomorrow

Is there any upgrade I should get with it? The kit looks pretty complete as is.
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