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Old 02-01-2013, 04:18 AM   #2146
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Originally Posted by cdwilliams1 View Post
Haha, this is almost exactly what I came here to ask about. I had a TA05 that I sold last year. I'm itchin to get back into TC and can't decide between a TA06 w/hopups or a TRF car. If you had to start fresh like I am - what route would you go?

If you're running mod/open class I'm thinking ~417.
If you want something straight forward to build with plenty of other people running the same car for setups etc then I'm thinking ~417.
Otherwise if you don't mind the small challenge of a plastic kit plus carbon chassis conversion then I'd recommend the TA06+Exotek chassis for sure.
The main reason: the central battery/motor and hence perfect lateral balance every time you hit the track
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:23 AM   #2147
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I'm really starting to like my TA06. I'm running the standard stand up shock. I can't seem to get my IFS setup right. Is changing spring rate the only way to stiffen or soften the suspension on IFS? I just can't seem to make the IFS handle like my standard stand up shock. How many mm are you guys spacing the inside camber link? The stock shims seems to give too much camber gain.
The IFS results in a softer spring rate at the front.
To adjust this you can of course go stiffer spring (I've gravitated towards HPI White instead of ~Pink).
But also you can adjust the shim spacers on the bell-crank.
-->If you remove shims from the push rod side and add shims to the shock side this will make a stiffer action - similar concept to standing-up or moving arm pivot point outwards for a 'normal' shock layout.

You might be able to see my setup in the pics I posted if they are clear enough, basically 0mm spacer on pushrod side of bell-crank and 3mm on the shock side. To make it stiffer.

Would also be keen to learn what others have tried/found works?
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:04 AM   #2148
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Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
The IFS results in a softer spring rate at the front.
To adjust this you can of course go stiffer spring (I've gravitated towards HPI White instead of ~Pink).
But also you can adjust the shim spacers on the bell-crank.
-->If you remove shims from the push rod side and add shims to the shock side this will make a stiffer action - similar concept to standing-up or moving arm pivot point outwards for a 'normal' shock layout.

You might be able to see my setup in the pics I posted if they are clear enough, basically 0mm spacer on pushrod side of bell-crank and 3mm on the shock side. To make it stiffer.

Would also be keen to learn what others have tried/found works?
Thanks for the tips cookie. I'll give it a try.
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Old 02-01-2013, 08:32 AM   #2149
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cookie, how is the exotek chassis for the ta06, for my tao5 ver 11 some of the holes were not really lined up and were tight, what about your kit, thanks
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Old 02-01-2013, 02:45 PM   #2150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
If you're running mod/open class I'm thinking ~417.
If you want something straight forward to build with plenty of other people running the same car for setups etc then I'm thinking ~417.
Otherwise if you don't mind the small challenge of a plastic kit plus carbon chassis conversion then I'd recommend the TA06+Exotek chassis for sure.
The main reason: the central battery/motor and hence perfect lateral balance every time you hit the track
Appreciate the insight. I'm going to run in spec blinky 17.5 on carpet with the required jaco blue's (it's the only TC class locally). So maybe I'll go with the TA06+exo.

and of course I need some of that awesome mesh wire!
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Old 02-01-2013, 09:53 PM   #2151
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Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
cookie, how is the exotek chassis for the ta06, for my tao5 ver 11 some of the holes were not really lined up and were tight, what about your kit, thanks
I found mine was perfect! Everything fitted and aligned spot on. I've built a second EX06 car just last weekend for a mate of mine and quality was also 100%.
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Old 02-02-2013, 04:26 AM   #2152
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Cookie how come you don't run the main drive belt tensioner?

I've nearly finished my servo/esc swap knocked off 90g just by shortening wires and losing the servo mounting plate. Just trying to figure out how to route the transponder and motor fan wires. Doing a wire mesh job too, will post a pic when it's done.

Also I'm only running 21.5 blinky, I run medium stabiliser arms and HPI silver springs all round. Whats the benefit of having stiffer springs? I though softing would equal more grip.

One more thing, I've running the fixed front axle, was originally running the diff but read that a locked one was quicker. Noticed you're running the front diff, should I switch back?
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Old 02-02-2013, 06:04 AM   #2153
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Also I'm only running 21.5 blinky
Just out of curiosity, what size spur & pinion gears are you using, and is it 48dp or 64dp?

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Old 02-03-2013, 12:28 AM   #2154
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I found mine was perfect! Everything fitted and aligned spot on. I've built a second EX06 car just last weekend for a mate of mine and quality was also 100%.
...actually one little thing that wasn't perfect was the round blue alloy cups for the steering bell crank post bearings fit into the actual chassis and the small top brace. They were not a tight fit so I just stuck some sticky tap on them and pressed them into the chassis and brace and cut away the excess tape!!!
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Old 02-03-2013, 12:42 AM   #2155
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Originally Posted by ript View Post
Cookie how come you don't run the main drive belt tensioner?

I've nearly finished my servo/esc swap knocked off 90g just by shortening wires and losing the servo mounting plate. Just trying to figure out how to route the transponder and motor fan wires. Doing a wire mesh job too, will post a pic when it's done.

Also I'm only running 21.5 blinky, I run medium stabiliser arms and HPI silver springs all round. Whats the benefit of having stiffer springs? I though softing would equal more grip.

One more thing, I've running the fixed front axle, was originally running the diff but read that a locked one was quicker. Noticed you're running the front diff, should I switch back?

Initially it was laziness, getting ready the night before a titles event! But I realised the belt was tight enough without it, so left it off! An older belt may need it but I usually change the belt if that's the case.

My understanding (anyone please correct me!) is that the softer spring will allow more weight transfer and hence allow the car to generate more grip on the chassis corner/end of the softer spring. But if the track is already providing good grip then stiffening the spring rates will result in better corner speed overall.
So what I do is increase spring rate until the car just doesn't have enough grip to be stable and drivable, and then go back one rate.
Also harder springs will be less forgiving on bumps

Most people these days run a spool as it's light, low maintenance, allows hard breaking and accelerates well off a corner.
Why I run a gear diff is for the smoothness and predictability (and it came with the kit!) I've never liked the feel of the spool, so I like the gear diff, which is a good compromise between spool and ball diff in terms of maintenance, braking, accelerating and smooth cornering

Worth trying it, if you still have one, then decide which you like better.

Last edited by Cookie; 02-03-2013 at 01:37 AM.
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:35 AM   #2156
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I just built a mate of mine's EX06 with the blue mesh!


Tamiya Ta06-image.jpg
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Old 02-03-2013, 01:39 AM   #2157
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Man mine looks awful compared to that You're racing at TFTR next weekend yeah? I'll have to steal you for 5mins so you can give me some tips on how to sort out my messy servo/transponder/motor fan cables!
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Old 02-03-2013, 03:01 AM   #2158
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Haha!
Yeah I'll be there, for sure no worries anytime...
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:33 PM   #2159
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Hey I just created this spreadsheet of all Tamiya Factory upgrades according to their RC Support system. I figured other could use it as well: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4964635/TA06...0-%20Copy.xlsx
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:38 AM   #2160
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what is better for this car, running it in ifs setup ot standard setup, I am looking into purchasing one of these needed some info
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