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Old 01-21-2013, 10:36 PM   #2131
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Nice setup. Here's mine. I agree the eagle gear case is quite heafty, but I'm saving some weight with the shorty lipo.

Had to make some holes on the top in able to run the shorty pack forward with the stock chassis. I like the compromise because the extra room allows me to run the receiver in the battery tray & also route the wires under.

I'm limited to only shorty lipos with this setup, but it doesn't bother me as this is a dedicated drifter. Also used Velcro to mount the esc. Looking to replace with something industrial grade, but it holds well for now.

All in all chassis drifts great! Still trying to lock down a tune that fits my style. Left right balance is excellent. Haven't gotten it on a scale yet.





Basher body


Eagle case stripped & polished



Plans:
Eagle or exotek chassis
Higher CS Ratio
Custom front tensioner
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:58 AM   #2132
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Super nice car ript! Prefect example of a Tamiya blue crack addict! Yeah, swap the electronics and black Sharpie the servo wires to blend in better and the blue bits will pop even more.
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:35 AM   #2133
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Thanks guys :V

UberPare if you're not racing the Eagle graphite conversion kit is half the price. I got all my parts from here: http://broadtechonlineshop.com/eagle...00&series=1041

I've started looking at swapping the steering crank to the other side but I use the Tamiya alloy steering kit and it doesn't look reversible at all.
I've attached a photo as you can see it cups over the middle steering arm, imo flipping that over would result in a loose join creating some slop.

Any ideas? Has someone made a reversed alloy crank?
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya Ta06-img_20130123_202932.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:43 AM   #2134
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Ya I considered the eagle chassis. For me it's all about style points

There's a DIY for modifying the stock steering setup for RHD. It's some where in here just got to search for it. I don't see y u couldn't do the same with your alu parts.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:11 AM   #2135
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Right handed steering arms

http://rsector.com/index_ecat.php?cPath=10_5
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:56 PM   #2136
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Am I just dumb? I ran a 13.5 and 10.5 motors with 4.2 and 5.2 fdr and running 19 sec average with both motors. Granted the 10.5 is noticeably faster on the straight but still same lap times. Both are boosted with 125 temp after a 8 min race. Am I doing something wrong? My set up rsector chassis, Orion r10 pro with motor combo, reedy 4k Shorty, and Orion servo. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-23-2013, 04:19 PM   #2137
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Thanks ordered the arms saved me some heartache :V

BadPanda818 sounds like your cornering is slow, out of the box I had trouble with my steering. Until I handed it over to a very experienced clued up racer he was able to tune it up to handle really well and fast around corners.
Out of the box it had some REALLY whack camber and toe settings on the front wheels to the point where there was very little rubber even on the road.

How does your car handle around the corners? Are you over or understeering at all? Do you run a fixed pulley or diff at the front?

Remember it's really tail heavy with the motor right over the back wheels so you need to tune with that in mind. We ended up laying down the rear shock towers a couple of holes which helped heaps.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:28 PM   #2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ript View Post

BadPanda818 sounds like your cornering is slow, out of the box I had trouble with my steering. Until I handed it over to a very experienced clued up racer he was able to tune it up to handle really well and fast around corners.
Out of the box it had some REALLY whack camber and toe settings on the front wheels to the point where there was very little rubber even on the road.

How does your car handle around the corners? Are you over or understeering at all? Do you run a fixed pulley or diff at the front?

Remember it's really tail heavy with the motor right over the back wheels so you need to tune with that in mind. We ended up laying down the rear shock towers a couple of holes which helped heaps.
Thanks for answering. set up wise, I had it set up with a hudy board w/ 0 front toe, 1.5 toe in rear, gear diff 75k front 1k rear and -1.5 camber all around. On turns, it usually oversteers but i had it set up that way. I have my car dialed to 40/60 weight distribution thanks to my shorty lipo compared to how it was with the original chassis. I guess it's my corner speed. Weird though, i pass opponents on the infield but i loose them on the straight. So just drive faster on the infield?
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Old 01-23-2013, 07:25 PM   #2139
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i believe there's such a thing as "too much motor" for any given track...
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:53 AM   #2140
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Thanks! Lol

The cost or lack thereof is not why the car is so awesome, it's just well designed with weight distribution! (I reckon!)

If we're trickin our cars on blue crack - probably best not to count the dollars!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS LS1 View Post
Awesome Car Cookie!!

Love the TA06 and the Exotek chassis is fantastic but your point is lost when Cookie's car cost over $500 to build up! Just sayin'

TA06 Pro approx $290
Tamiya Blue Shock Spring retainers $14
Tamiya IFS Alum Rocker Arm Set $35
Exotek Chassis $125
Exotek IFS Blocks $13
Exotek Carbon rear shock tower $17
Exotex Carbon bumper brace $7


Grand total $501 + shipping + other hop-ups Cookie might have to push the price up even more.

(I still love the Tamiya cars but the non TRF models are like blue CRACK and hop-ups will drain your wallet!)
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:23 AM   #2141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
Thanks! Lol

The cost or lack thereof is not why the car is so awesome, it's just well designed with weight distribution! (I reckon!)

If we're trickin our cars on blue crack - probably best not to count the dollars!
Haha, this is almost exactly what I came here to ask about. I had a TA05 that I sold last year. I'm itchin to get back into TC and can't decide between a TA06 w/hopups or a TRF car. If you had to start fresh like I am - what route would you go?
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:54 PM   #2142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookie View Post
Sharing some pics of my TA06 (with Exotek chassis) - run in 13.5 boosted:


Attachment 1008137

Attachment 1008138

Attachment 1008139


I love this car so much - always perfect balance and funky!
Where'd you get that braided cord around the wires? The electronics layout and hookup is fantastic.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:22 PM   #2143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdwilliams1 View Post
Haha, this is almost exactly what I came here to ask about. I had a TA05 that I sold last year. I'm itchin to get back into TC and can't decide between a TA06 w/hopups or a TRF car. If you had to start fresh like I am - what route would you go?

depends on where you plan to run... if everything is open, go for the TRF car...
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:23 PM   #2144
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I'm really starting to like my TA06. I'm running the standard stand up shock. I can't seem to get my IFS setup right. Is changing spring rate the only way to stiffen or soften the suspension on IFS? I just can't seem to make the IFS handle like my standard stand up shock. How many mm are you guys spacing the inside camber link? The stock shims seems to give too much camber gain.
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Old 02-01-2013, 04:09 AM   #2145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdwilliams1 View Post
Where'd you get that braided cord around the wires? The electronics layout and hookup is fantastic.
From hobbyking.com, it's called Wire Mesh Guard (under Hardware & accessories > Wires & Plugs > Silicon Wire & Mesh Guard)

I'm addicted to it...I think I have problem...need wire mesh anonymous meetings....



Oh btw if you do get some, here's a tip:
Instead of cutting it with scissors or scalpel, use a soldering iron! No solder of course, just the hot wedge tip, this stops the fibres from fraying.
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