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Old 09-24-2012, 02:34 AM   #2071
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stiffer yes, but also much more fragile
the plastic bits can take quiet a beating, the reinforced ones crack much faster after even a small impact
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Old 09-24-2012, 10:05 AM   #2072
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so buying all that carbon reinforced parts saves you +- 10gr ? an costs so much money...?
I'd say get yourself a lightweight battery that way you can save up to 100 grams or more !

this weekend we used 96 spur and 49-51 pinions in the tamiya benelux cup so the ratio was 4.25 - 4.08
I didn't use a bigger pinion then 48 (my gear ratio was 4.34) and you noticed for yourself that i was faster overall and not on the straight part of the track.
My car was by far the lightest of our class, i even used a lightweight body and all the carbon hop-up parts.
All the reinforced parts are parts that don't easily break during an impact, cause the things you can easily break are the suspension parts and that's not the case here.
Standard plastic parts do wear out much faster then the reinforced ones wich results in more play between the parts and will cause a less predictable car during the race.
Sometimes reinforced parts do have more purpose then just saving weight.
And it's better to save weight on the car itself then to buy a battery that's much lighter but isn't that much powerfull as an normal up to date battery.
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:41 AM   #2073
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Looks I bought the wrong gears because I got 48 pitch and you guys must be using 64 pitch because I noticed those were smaller in diameter. I can't even get my gears to fit.

The guy in the shop recommended 10K wt diff oil for the rear. Is that ok or is it too high? I'm using 120k up front so I think that's ok but for the rear i'm seeing people using 1k oil.
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Old 09-25-2012, 09:32 AM   #2074
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Looks I bought the wrong gears because I got 48 pitch and you guys must be using 64 pitch because I noticed those were smaller in diameter. I can't even get my gears to fit.

The guy in the shop recommended 10K wt diff oil for the rear. Is that ok or is it too high? I'm using 120k up front so I think that's ok but for the rear i'm seeing people using 1k oil.
I always use between 800 and 1200 in the rear.
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Old 09-27-2012, 03:06 AM   #2075
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I didn't use a bigger pinion then 48 (my gear ratio was 4.34) and you noticed for yourself that i was faster overall and not on the straight part of the track.
My car was by far the lightest of our class, i even used a lightweight body and all the carbon hop-up parts.
All the reinforced parts are parts that don't easily break during an impact, cause the things you can easily break are the suspension parts and that's not the case here.
Standard plastic parts do wear out much faster then the reinforced ones wich results in more play between the parts and will cause a less predictable car during the race.
Sometimes reinforced parts do have more purpose then just saving weight.
And it's better to save weight on the car itself then to buy a battery that's much lighter but isn't that much powerfull as an normal up to date battery.
yes you're right, and no you're not.

LRP LiPo Hyper Pack 4000 - 7.4V - 25C - Stickpack Hardcase 227gr
Turnigy nano-tech 6000mah 2S2P 65~130C Hardcase Lipo Pack 313g
86 gr saved. price is +- the same and no risk of loosing power quicker i'd say. (as long as your not running modified class or some super quick engine)

I once broke 5 pieces carbo reinforced in one race. And there was not one broken because of a big hit, all broke with a very small tap on the front wheel.
I have yet to brake my first plastic piece.
you're correct that some pieces are located in places that are not so vunerable. but then you loose only max 10gr in weight, it costs much more.
all just to gain some extra stiffness ? + you have a much higher risk for broken pieces.
I'd say it's just not worth it... altought I must admit it's fun to tune the chassis like you did, looks superclean to say the least !
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Last edited by carborush; 09-27-2012 at 03:21 AM.
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Old 09-27-2012, 09:13 AM   #2076
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Here's a video of the Super Stock A main from our local Tamiya Cup Finals in South Africa. TA-06 1ST and 3RD

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:44 PM   #2077
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Tamiya TA06 Pro

If anybody is interested in a TA06 pro, please PM me. Thanks.
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Old 10-01-2012, 11:33 PM   #2078
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Anyone raced the TA-06 with the Exotek chassis conversion? Racing mine for the first time this weekend in 21.5 interested to hear any reports from others with the same kit.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:26 AM   #2079
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Does anybody know (or can measure for me) the distance from the centre of the pin hole to the bearing shoulder on the TA06 Tamiya gear diff outdrives?
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:28 AM   #2080
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The attached picture describes the measurement I need a little better.
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya Ta06-91006-500x500.jpg  
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:38 AM   #2081
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The attached picture describes the measurement I need a little better.
Josh

See craig, im pretty sure he just used the long side out of the 417 diff outdrives.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:14 AM   #2082
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I was hoping the TA05/06 outdrives were the same as then I would only need to buy one packed of outdrives, not 2.
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Old 10-03-2012, 09:03 AM   #2083
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Default TAMIYA got it right.

Ok,here is an observation.
Two of my good friends,Andy Cooke and Heath Murray are both running these,one in mod,one in stock.
Tamiya have got it right with the battery down the centre of the chassis.This makes the car grip,and roll superbly.
I have a serpent s411,I've had X-rays,losis,Corallys,old serpents and they are all basically the same car.
I just think this car is going to be the "correct" design to follow.
Regards you lucky Tamiya owners,
Tim Phillips
P.S.Anyone wanna swap for an over-engineered Corally RDX Phi09?....lol
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:01 AM   #2084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ript View Post
Anyone raced the TA-06 with the Exotek chassis conversion? Racing mine for the first time this weekend in 21.5 interested to hear any reports from others with the same kit.
The chassis is definitely stiffer and snaps a lot more out of the hole but that's how mine was setup. For this weeks race ive dialed the car back to what I would consider a starting point and I'm looking to adjust from there. After my first series in GT3 (silver can) I moved on to GT2(17.5), and what worked in GT3 hasn't translated too well for GT2. Hopefully I can get the car dialed so I can be a little more competitive in this newer class.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:00 PM   #2085
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I'm not sure I'm asking this in the right place but here goes. I've been looking at the TA 06 pro and was wondering if its a competitive car ? I'm not sure I'd even race it. I would like too trying my hand at drifting but if I did want to race touring cars at the local track would it at least do ok in say a stock class? I just don't want to buy a drift car and if not for me be stuck with a car that can't hit the track...

Thanks
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