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Old 08-20-2012, 06:03 PM   #2056
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I'm running a Viper VTX10 and their 17.5. My original gear choice was a 96 spur and a 51 pinion for an fdr of 4.085. I ran with no motor timing and no boost. On a typical, hot 90 deg day, I was only able to put down about 8-9 laps before thermal protection kicks in.
Were you motor thermaling or ESC thermaling?
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:17 PM   #2057
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RE: TA06 final drive ratio

I've skimmed the posts and it seems that most people are running an FDR about 4.0 in 17.5. Any of you having success without thermal problems ?

I'm running a Viper VTX10 and their 17.5. My original gear choice was a 96 spur and a 51 pinion for an fdr of 4.085. I ran with no motor timing and no boost. On a typical, hot 90 deg day, I was only able to put down about 8-9 laps before thermal protection kicks in.

Next I tried gearing down to 96/49. Still overheating. Car seems fine. I don't have any particular drivetrain binding that I can notice. However, it is not as free as my TB03, but that is expected with a belt drive setup right?

My speed on the long straight was already a bit slower than I'd like so I'd prefer not to keep gearing down.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
I ran 85 spur with 53 pinion with my orion set never saw temp above 140. Also noticed that the ta06 doesn't like her main belt tight. Loosen her belt adjust just a tad more.
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:20 PM   #2058
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You can make a hole in the chassis underneath the motor. Then attach a fan right above the motor. Should help a bit!
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:33 PM   #2059
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I noticed when I ran the Viper 17.5 that it ran kinda hot and also that compared to most other 17.5 motors the kv rating is lower than most other faster 17.5 motors that are out.

You want a high out put fan that either runs off your receiver at 6 volts or the better fans that are capable of running at 8.4 volts that you wire into your speedo where you plug the battery in. This will lower your temps a ton. From my other Tamiya cars you will want to run that belt as loose as possible will also help with freeing up the drive train.

I'm geared at 3.88 overall with my VBC Wildfire and I use a 6 volt fan on my Thunder Power 17.5 with the motor timing set right at 35 degrees and my temps are 156 degrees after a 6 minute race.

I would really like to try one a TA)6 on a Exotek or VBC graphite chassis setup and see how it compares to my current car.
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Old 08-21-2012, 01:24 PM   #2060
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Thanks for the replies.

I have a fan over the motor running off the receiver. Should have mentioned it in the original post. Also, I believe it's the motor that is thermal-ing. It is noticeably hot and the esc seems fine. However, I haven't been able to verify on my PC yet (no USB cable to connect and run diagnostics).

I will try the other two ideas though: loosening the main belt and making some holes under the motor.

If that doesn't work, I'll try another motor/esc and maybe just rebuild the whole car to check for any drivetrain binding I may have missed.

Thanks again.

Paul
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Old 08-21-2012, 03:43 PM   #2061
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Originally Posted by paul18t View Post
Also, I believe it's the motor that is thermal-ing. It is noticeably hot and the esc seems fine. However, I haven't been able to verify on my PC yet (no USB cable to connect and run diagnostics).

When it stops, look at the little vport (box with the lights).
If you see F and R flashing with the N light off, it's the motor thermalling. If the N light is on, the ESC went into thermal shutdown.
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Old 08-21-2012, 05:16 PM   #2062
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When it stops, look at the little vport (box with the lights).
If you see F and R flashing with the N light off, it's the motor thermalling. If the N light is on, the ESC went into thermal shutdown.
Yes, the F and R lights were blinknig with the N light off. Thanks for that info.
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Old 08-27-2012, 02:39 PM   #2063
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Selling a full set of Eagle racing chassis and aluminium option parts.

TA06 Eagle Racing Chassis with all option parts
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Old 09-10-2012, 06:26 PM   #2064
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I just got the TA06 Pro kit and I have a few questions before I begin building it. Are the carbon reinforced parts for this car supposed to be lighter? If they are how much of a weight reduction would it give me if I changed them all?
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Old 09-11-2012, 10:25 AM   #2065
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I just got the TA06 Pro kit and I have a few questions before I begin building it. Are the carbon reinforced parts for this car supposed to be lighter? If they are how much of a weight reduction would it give me if I changed them all?
Here is a list of weight differences

Parts Standard kit parts carbon reinf.parts
Front damper stay (J2) 7,7gr 6,2gr
Rear damper stay (J1) 9,0gr 6,9gr
Front lower bulkhead (A4&A5) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Rear lower bulkheads (A2&A3) 5,3gr 4,6gr
Rear upper brace (A9&A10) 7,2gr 6,4gr
Front upper bulkhead (A8) 6,6gr 5,7gr
Rear upper bulkhead (A11) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Front damper mount (A1) 2,4gr 2,0gr
Front damper brace (A6&A7) 10,8gr 9,4gr
Differential gear housing (T1&T2) 22,0gr 20,0gr
Chassis 99,0 102,0gr

Hope this helps

There are still other parts then can be replaced with original tamiya parts for even more weight saving
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Old 09-11-2012, 05:55 PM   #2066
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
Here is a list of weight differences

Parts Standard kit parts carbon reinf.parts
Front damper stay (J2) 7,7gr 6,2gr
Rear damper stay (J1) 9,0gr 6,9gr
Front lower bulkhead (A4&A5) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Rear lower bulkheads (A2&A3) 5,3gr 4,6gr
Rear upper brace (A9&A10) 7,2gr 6,4gr
Front upper bulkhead (A8) 6,6gr 5,7gr
Rear upper bulkhead (A11) 7,7gr 6,7gr
Front damper mount (A1) 2,4gr 2,0gr
Front damper brace (A6&A7) 10,8gr 9,4gr
Differential gear housing (T1&T2) 22,0gr 20,0gr
Chassis 99,0 102,0gr

Hope this helps

There are still other parts then can be replaced with original tamiya parts for even more weight saving
Thanks! That was really helpful to know how much weight I'm actually saving by using the carbon parts. It looks like only the carbon reinforced chassis is heavier than the stock one? Or was that just a mistake? I already went ahead and ordered all the carbon reinforced parts except for the battery door.
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Old 09-16-2012, 04:00 AM   #2067
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Originally Posted by jdawg81 View Post
Thanks! That was really helpful to know how much weight I'm actually saving by using the carbon parts. It looks like only the carbon reinforced chassis is heavier than the stock one? Or was that just a mistake? I already went ahead and ordered all the carbon reinforced parts except for the battery door.
The carbon reinforced chassis is heavier then the standard one that comes with the kit.
I'm using the carbon reinforced chassis for carpet and the standard one for outdoor.
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Old 09-23-2012, 03:02 PM   #2068
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The carbon reinforced chassis is heavier then the standard one that comes with the kit.
I'm using the carbon reinforced chassis for carpet and the standard one for outdoor.
Ok I didn't realize the reinforced chassis was heavier than the kit one. I thought all carbon reinforced parts were lighter but thanks for clearing that up for me.

Does anyone know which spur gears are a direct fit? I'm trying to gear my car to get the FDR down to around 3.8 to 4.2. I bought a 48 pitch 84T spur gear but I can only use two mounting holes. Then I bought a 45T pinion gear to get the FDR to about 4.0 and then out during assembly that it won't work because its too big and there's not enough room to move the motor back to mount the gears.
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Old 09-24-2012, 02:11 AM   #2069
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so buying all that carbon reinforced parts saves you +- 10gr ? an costs so much money...?
I'd say get yourself a lightweight battery that way you can save up to 100 grams or more !

this weekend we used 96 spur and 49-51 pinions in the tamiya benelux cup so the ratio was 4.25 - 4.08
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Old 09-24-2012, 02:20 AM   #2070
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I thought the whole point of the carbon reinforced stuff was for much much stiffer bits?
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