Tamiya Ta06
#1906
Tech Regular
the ta06 will get quite expensive, thats why i sold mine when i realized that it would take alot of hopups to get it competitive. (modified outdoors)
the cost of a race ready ta06 is (as already said) at the same as a 417, but havent read anywhere of it being as fast as a 417 on the track.
it maybe works in slow blinky classes (17.5-25 or what is popular today) but i dont think it will be competitive in boosted stock classes or in mod
looking at the touring market today a tc6.1 can be had for $360 so if you dont are looking to compete in the tamiya cup then a other touring car would be a cheaper and better choice!
the cost of a race ready ta06 is (as already said) at the same as a 417, but havent read anywhere of it being as fast as a 417 on the track.
it maybe works in slow blinky classes (17.5-25 or what is popular today) but i dont think it will be competitive in boosted stock classes or in mod
looking at the touring market today a tc6.1 can be had for $360 so if you dont are looking to compete in the tamiya cup then a other touring car would be a cheaper and better choice!
#1907
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Its a great idea, its just it will take more $ to get up to that level PLUS the transition of the cars handling. If I could do it again, I'd wait for the newest TRF...or 417x
#1908
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
the ta06 will get quite expensive, thats why i sold mine when i realized that it would take alot of hopups to get it competitive. (modified outdoors)
the cost of a race ready ta06 is (as already said) at the same as a 417, but havent read anywhere of it being as fast as a 417 on the track.
it maybe works in slow blinky classes (17.5-25 or what is popular today) but i dont think it will be competitive in boosted stock classes or in mod
looking at the touring market today a tc6.1 can be had for $360 so if you dont are looking to compete in the tamiya cup then a other touring car would be a cheaper and better choice!
the cost of a race ready ta06 is (as already said) at the same as a 417, but havent read anywhere of it being as fast as a 417 on the track.
it maybe works in slow blinky classes (17.5-25 or what is popular today) but i dont think it will be competitive in boosted stock classes or in mod
looking at the touring market today a tc6.1 can be had for $360 so if you dont are looking to compete in the tamiya cup then a other touring car would be a cheaper and better choice!
#1910
Tech Adept
My 06 is all tamiya and upgrades are carbon reinforced plastics
Spent about 300 no electronics and I use it double duty
Tcs races in silver can gt class and mostly 17.5 stock spec touring
And performs great against X-rays yoko and other chassis
Driving skill aside the other factors are quality batteries and motors
I also have a trf415 and ta05 original but I definitely like the out of the box design this chassis has to offer
Spent about 300 no electronics and I use it double duty
Tcs races in silver can gt class and mostly 17.5 stock spec touring
And performs great against X-rays yoko and other chassis
Driving skill aside the other factors are quality batteries and motors
I also have a trf415 and ta05 original but I definitely like the out of the box design this chassis has to offer
#1911
My 06 is all tamiya and upgrades are carbon reinforced plastics
Spent about 300 no electronics and I use it double duty
Tcs races in silver can gt class and mostly 17.5 stock spec touring
And performs great against X-rays yoko and other chassis
Driving skill aside the other factors are quality batteries and motors
I also have a trf415 and ta05 original but I definitely like the out of the box design this chassis has to offer
Spent about 300 no electronics and I use it double duty
Tcs races in silver can gt class and mostly 17.5 stock spec touring
And performs great against X-rays yoko and other chassis
Driving skill aside the other factors are quality batteries and motors
I also have a trf415 and ta05 original but I definitely like the out of the box design this chassis has to offer
#1912
Tech Elite
iTrader: (89)
95% complte with my build
Here it is my exotek ta06 95% complete. when I an done I will probably have spent almost as much as a 417 but I wanted a car with the battery positioned in the center of the car and a low cg. I sold my xray for this car and I have been wanting a car like this since my last Losi JRX-S Type R and the Team magic E4 came out.
I also like how narrow the exotek chassis looks. I don't think this car will have much trouble competing in 17.5 nr or boosted at all. I think most guys buying expensive TC's are running 13.5 or 17.5 nr or boosted. I only see the experts racing mod. I hate building turnbuckles and shocks so I saved those for last.
I think this was a cool build. I bought the hop-up tamiya aluminum washers and they worked great. Just recommend using a micrometer to be sure you have the right size as this car uses many different size washers. I also have the ball diff in rear and spool up front. I built the gear diff to try that too. Also replaced the idler gear with an aluminum gear.
Now the fun begins mounting the electronics and the battery and balancing the car out but you will have that with any TC and how many guys buy the $600 cars out of the box and then run the exotek chassis anyway.
Questions I have are: Has anyone found better body mounts that are strong as the stock ones seem weak?
Also has anyone tried using the plastic spacers that come with the stock suspension mounts under the aluminum mounts for kick up or anti squat??
I also like how narrow the exotek chassis looks. I don't think this car will have much trouble competing in 17.5 nr or boosted at all. I think most guys buying expensive TC's are running 13.5 or 17.5 nr or boosted. I only see the experts racing mod. I hate building turnbuckles and shocks so I saved those for last.
I think this was a cool build. I bought the hop-up tamiya aluminum washers and they worked great. Just recommend using a micrometer to be sure you have the right size as this car uses many different size washers. I also have the ball diff in rear and spool up front. I built the gear diff to try that too. Also replaced the idler gear with an aluminum gear.
Now the fun begins mounting the electronics and the battery and balancing the car out but you will have that with any TC and how many guys buy the $600 cars out of the box and then run the exotek chassis anyway.
Questions I have are: Has anyone found better body mounts that are strong as the stock ones seem weak?
Also has anyone tried using the plastic spacers that come with the stock suspension mounts under the aluminum mounts for kick up or anti squat??
#1913
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Either the TA06 is very expensive where you are, or the 417 very cheap, as I just can't see how you can be spending so much. Running indoors on foams would show up any chassis weakness (front end between front bulkhead and battery compartment) but nothing that would get me spending another £300!!
#1914
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
Now the fun begins mounting the electronics and the battery and balancing the car out but you will have that with any TC and how many guys buy the $600 cars out of the box and then run the exotek chassis anyway.
Questions I have are: Has anyone found better body mounts that are strong as the stock ones seem weak?
Also has anyone tried using the plastic spacers that come with the stock suspension mounts under the aluminum mounts for kick up or anti squat??
Questions I have are: Has anyone found better body mounts that are strong as the stock ones seem weak?
Also has anyone tried using the plastic spacers that come with the stock suspension mounts under the aluminum mounts for kick up or anti squat??
Your setup is very similar to mine.
I bought the steering assembly that swaps the steering, best mod ive done so far. no more frayed wires, excess cable, less resistance loss due to the shorter wires, etc.
The exotek chassis also accomodated this mod with no other adjustment needed!
I use the plastic spacers in the rear of the suspension front and rear suspension. It reduces the caster slightly and I like how it handles more...
#1915
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
I also went on broadtech and spent about $60 and bought alum front and rear bulkheads, ($20 a piece) center alum low friction pulley($7) and rear pulley/spur holder ($10) c-hubs and front uprights. I have since decided (due to my passion on saving every 1/3 gram possible, I will be removing and selling the bulkheads, pulley, c-hub and spur gear holder. This is in addition to the $150 exotek upgrade with ifs mount. After all mods, (alum and titanium screws, titanium turnbuckles, rear sus mount, flourine balls, tamiya rear upright, acer bearing etc.) Its probably at $700. Consider the TRF417x, you would also have to get the titanium screws, rear uprights and acer bearings etc. but your starting cost would be much, much greater.
i am racing rcgt 17.5r
#1916
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
I guess mine is the "value" version
I already had a set of TRF shocks and I don't get along with the blue aluminum turnbuckles so I started with the "regular" TA06
Tamiya 58488 TA06 - $229.99
(CVDs for the front axles)
Wheels axles 51445 - $11.59
Cross joints 51444 - $3.20
46mm swing shaft 51092 - $14.49
Alum. Steering Bridge 54308 - $10.60
Alum. Racing Steering Set 54310 - $16.00
Carbon Reinforced
A parts Tamiya 54321 - $9.99
J Parts Tamiya 54322 - $6.25
T Parts Tamiya 54323 - $6.99
Lower Deck Tamiya 54316 - $29.99
Total $339.09
I already had a set of TRF shocks and I don't get along with the blue aluminum turnbuckles so I started with the "regular" TA06
Tamiya 58488 TA06 - $229.99
(CVDs for the front axles)
Wheels axles 51445 - $11.59
Cross joints 51444 - $3.20
46mm swing shaft 51092 - $14.49
Alum. Steering Bridge 54308 - $10.60
Alum. Racing Steering Set 54310 - $16.00
Carbon Reinforced
A parts Tamiya 54321 - $9.99
J Parts Tamiya 54322 - $6.25
T Parts Tamiya 54323 - $6.99
Lower Deck Tamiya 54316 - $29.99
Total $339.09
#1917
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
I guess mine is the "value" version
I already had a set of TRF shocks and I don't get along with the blue aluminum turnbuckles so I started with the "regular" TA06
Tamiya 58488 TA06 - $229.99
(CVDs for the front axles)
Wheels axles 51445 - $11.59
Cross joints 51444 - $3.20
46mm swing shaft 51092 - $14.49
Alum. Steering Bridge 54308 - $10.60
Alum. Racing Steering Set 54310 - $16.00
Carbon Reinforced
A parts Tamiya 54321 - $9.99
J Parts Tamiya 54322 - $6.25
T Parts Tamiya 54323 - $6.99
Lower Deck Tamiya 54316 - $29.99
Total $339.09
I already had a set of TRF shocks and I don't get along with the blue aluminum turnbuckles so I started with the "regular" TA06
Tamiya 58488 TA06 - $229.99
(CVDs for the front axles)
Wheels axles 51445 - $11.59
Cross joints 51444 - $3.20
46mm swing shaft 51092 - $14.49
Alum. Steering Bridge 54308 - $10.60
Alum. Racing Steering Set 54310 - $16.00
Carbon Reinforced
A parts Tamiya 54321 - $9.99
J Parts Tamiya 54322 - $6.25
T Parts Tamiya 54323 - $6.99
Lower Deck Tamiya 54316 - $29.99
Total $339.09
anyone upgrade to the TRF HL dampers? its like $15 for a pair, and was the $30 worth it?
#1918
happy to have
Hello to all fallow TA06 owners
Kits put together and starting to set it up for carpet track
Will take pics and get them up
Kits put together and starting to set it up for carpet track
Will take pics and get them up