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Old 04-06-2012, 10:51 AM   #1816
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
Might help...
Front:
Blue springs
50wt oil 3-holed pistons
6mm droop
c-c blocks
shock 2nd hole from innermost
Middle swaybar thickness
6mm hexes
long camberlink 4mm spacer

rear:
White springs
50wt oil 3 hole pistons
6mm droop
xa-d blocks
shocks 3rd hole from innermost
thickest sway bar
6mm hexes
3mm spacer on camberlink (inner)
Use inner hole on the bulkhead and shorter hole on the hub
I'm running no sway on front, heaviest on rear, 50wt all around yellow fronts blue rears, front spool,rear ball diff a little loose. I also changed all my balls to the flourine coated. I had signs of wear on the blue balls (that's what she said) and I decided to swap them out. The worst wear was on the ifs ball studs. My ifs link is very long to preload the dampers.

I would also reccomend putting more weight and a looser diff in the rear. The stiffer springs reduce the rear dive due to the additional rear traction.
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:00 PM   #1817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
What? No nuggets of wisdom from anyone?
Carbon shock towers front and rear
alum suspension blocks
Alum racing steering set
Alum hexes
Thick oil (300-500k) or putty for the front diff
Carbon reinforced arms chub and uprights
Swaybar set

My chassis is pretty much the stock plastic one

Quote:
Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
In this case woulden't you want a stiffer front / softer rear spring?
Ta06 is very heavy at the rear. Harder setting at the rear stabilizes it and prevents it from swinging around on corner entry. Keeps the rear planted when powering out of the corner as well.

Btw I'm running putty in the front diff and 2k oil at the rear.

Hths
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:36 AM   #1818
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Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
Carbon reinforced arms chub...
I'm not sure what part you're referring to. What page / step is it in the manual?

Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
My chassis is pretty much the stock plastic one...
...interesting. I would have thought the stock unit would flex too much.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:54 AM   #1819
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Sometimes, flex is your friend.

Use the same arms, c-hubs, front and rear hubs as the 416/417. They're harder and sturdier than the stock plastic ones.

Refer to steps 14, 16, 18, & 20 (page 10 - 12)
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Old 04-07-2012, 10:05 AM   #1820
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Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
i think 3 degrees camber at the rear is too much. try reducing camber to 1.5 at the rear, and dont forget to check the suspensions tweak/ weight balancing.
camber 1.5 to 2 degrees and 2 to 3 degrees of rear toe in
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Old 04-07-2012, 12:47 PM   #1821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
Sometimes, flex is your friend.

Use the same arms, c-hubs, front and rear hubs as the 416/417. They're harder and sturdier than the stock plastic ones.

Refer to steps 14, 16, 18, & 20 (page 10 - 12)
Ironically it seems there is a tad more flex in the exotek than the graphite from tamiya...
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:36 PM   #1822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
Sometimes, flex is your friend.

Use the same arms, c-hubs, front and rear hubs as the 416/417. They're harder and sturdier than the stock plastic ones.

Refer to steps 14, 16, 18, & 20 (page 10 - 12)
So even in the "pro" version of the TA-06 chassis all of the plastics are the softer formulation? Interesting...
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:38 PM   #1823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwkride View Post
I think that you should get some of the carbon reinforced pieces.
You will find that with the stock plastic there is quite a bit of flex.

I would also suggest mounting a fan over the motor. They don't get much airflow with this chassis design.
Thanks for the heads up...
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:39 PM   #1824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
So even in the "pro" version of the TA-06 chassis all of the plastics are the softer formulation? Interesting...
Yes
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Old 04-07-2012, 01:51 PM   #1825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
So even in the "pro" version of the TA-06 chassis all of the plastics are the softer formulation? Interesting...
The upside to geting the pro is:

Alum turnbuckles
Alum dampers
alum ball ends
HD low friction ball cups

I wish I woulda gone without the PRO and just got the TRF dampers, TRF titanium turn buckles and flourine coated balls. I did it on the pro, (except the dampers) I just spent money i didnt need to...
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Old 04-07-2012, 05:57 PM   #1826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverhkswrx View Post
The upside to geting the pro is:

Alum turnbuckles
Alum dampers
alum ball ends
HD low friction ball cups

I wish I woulda gone without the PRO and just got the TRF dampers, TRF titanium turn buckles and flourine coated balls. I did it on the pro, (except the dampers) I just spent money i didnt need to...
Are the universals in both the pro and non-pro kits?
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:22 PM   #1827
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I believe so. Check the manual on tamiyas site.
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Old 04-07-2012, 07:38 PM   #1828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by @Art_Mighty View Post
Are the universals in both the pro and non-pro kits?
No, the non-pro has regular dog bones.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:21 PM   #1829
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No, the non-pro has regular dog bones.
Better yet, get one light weight and one regular...
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:39 AM   #1830
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In the UK, the Pro with a Tamiya shell only works out to be about 10 more expensive than the base model...
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