So i did it... Here is my in-depth step by step guide to make the TA06 RHD.
2 m3x.3mm shims
4 m3x1mm spacer (Tamiya part #53539)
1 m3x17mm tweak screw
***Exotek EX06 chassis HIGHLY RECCOMENDED!!!(If you do not have it, you will need to dremel TONS off the tub, IFS mount and other mods I WILL NOT be discussing ont his step by step. guide.
Step 1: Disassemble your entire steering setup.
Step 2: Dremel off the knob off the steering rack. Make it flat.
Step 3: take one of the extra IFS suspension spacers(the plastic that raises the drive cup) and measure 13mm and dremel it at that mark.
Step 4: Remove the spacers behindthe steering ball studs on the steering rack and reinstall the ball studs on the tweak screws without any spacers
(rubbing of the belt will result if this step is skipped)
Step 5: reinstall the steering rack upside down (and backwards)
**note: The spacers that USED to be on the bottom of the steering rack, now needs to be placed on top.
Step 6:When reinstalling the top of the steering rack support, place the m3x.3mm shims UNDER the carbon fiber between the carbon fiber and the aluminum support.
***It helps is you do step 7 at the same time
Step 7: Unscrew the 4 screws that hold the pulley holder and top deck to the alum support. place 1mm spacers under the screws(Tamiya shim set comes with 4 aluminum ones. Tamiya part #53539)
Step 8: Take the m3x17mm tweak screw and screw it into the slot in the steering rack. Place the IFS spacer that you dremeled earlier onto the screw, then install the ball stud.
Step 9: Move your servo mounts to the opposite side of the chassis.(this is where the Exotek helps DRAMATICALLY! move it to the EXACT screw/slot on the other side. As you see in the picture below, the holes are mirrored on both sides of the chassis. If you do not install the esc bottom "cage" you will save about 5 grams on the plastic one and 8 on the graphite one from eagle racing.
Step 10: move your batter holder screws and esc mount to the same location, just the opposite side of the chassis.(you will need to remove anything mounted to the mount and re-secure it with fresh servo/double sided tape.
**Side note/trick: Get another collar for your c-hub and dremel the back hole a little larger(about .25-.5mm) and slide that collar with the larger portion facing down, slide a slightly longer screw through the chassis, through the collar and secure with a nut. It will now rotate and pivot easier for a much easier battery removal. You will also need a spacer between the screw and the nut on the center part of the esc support.
Enjoy the atleast 30 grams you just shaved off removing atelast 40mm off 5 wires. I am sure I can save more if I were to remove the slider that helps remove the lipo, but I dont want to have to remove the topdeck everytime I want to replace a battery...