gauges, gauges, gauges. droop is just up travel of the chassis. if you use a wedged ride height gauge to set your r/h, use it to measure droop as well. just hold the tires to the ground, tug on the shock tower at that end, and measure the amount your chassis travels up. that's it.
other advice? well, if the track requires alot of braking or lifting, a spool or a diff might work better than a one way. but i am a fan of trying new things and learning from them. and the aluminum spool, a seaball copy
, is a joke. do not, under any circumstances, use aluminum for a spool unless you are using flat metal pincushions (like niftech stuff). or if you want to replace it every race or so.
back to the one way. they are very fast when right, so let's try to get it right. as you are hopefully aware, the front wheels freewheel during braking. that's responsible for the increased steering response at turn entry. the wheels are free to use their available traction for changing direction, not speed. to compound issues, a greater percentage of rear traction is now being dedicated to decreasing speed, so there is less rear traction left over to maintain lateral stability. hah! easy stuff.
most of the tuning methods used to properly setup a oneway focus on getting the lateral f/r traction bias, back to a normal. i've mentioned a few of the drastic changes. now for more subtle stuff.
- roll center. if you have the latest car, make sure that your front hingepins are as low as possible to the chassis. conversely, you could space up the rear hingpin 1 or 2 mm, and use an even softer spring. the idea here is a nose down roll axis.
- camber, make sure your camber is in check. use more rear camber since you won't gain any from castor like the front will.
- castor, this requires hopup parts, but changing castor has a dramatic effect on steering response. trouble is, no one agrees on which does what. i won't comment, as i ran the car on carpet, and my findings may not apply.
most of these chassis are run outdoors on asphalt, so i wouldn't think your setup to be much different. it may be that you will need to increase your sensitivity in terms of your input. even very good drivers have commented that driving with a one way forced them to re-learn how to drive!
keep in mind that by doing all of these things to deaden the front response, you are essentially taking away the very characteristic that makes a one way so fast. a catch 22 of sorts.