RCLAB 7even Cars.
#706
Tech Adept
i am soooooo mad, my car is running perfect right now but guess what, my ESC got burnt up, the good thing is that my hobby shop is gonna replace it for free. so life is good cept for that. i am still thinking about the oneway.
PEaCe OuT
NaTe
PEaCe OuT
NaTe
#707
potato - 123 maybe. that's what it says, but i could count to be sure. that's the stock belt though.
man, speedtech is out of everything i want and no contact with the supplier till mid month. bummer. i guess it's rclabusa's turn.
chrisman - i may have a treat for you soon. pics! not too soon, as i can't get what i want from anyone. question though. what do you think of milling the bottom of the motor mount so that it sits maybe 1/8" lower to relieve the belts so that i may over or under drive the car? up here in ohio many of us run full time fwd, sometimes with drag brakes. yeah, crazy. we have tons of traction and lots of switchbacks for carpet. i'm trying to keep from losing the rear end upon going from power to braking. the overdriven car acts much like a oneway on power, but doesn't suffer from the rear brake only effects of one. of course the straightline speed is adversely affected, but that may not be a large issue. your thoughts. also what about sinking the bulkheads to lower roll center? seems like the arms are so high. i really wish rclab used a captured hingepin style like schumacher where both roll center and antisquat are adjustable. maybe too many parameters for us amateurs anyway. your thoughts? later.
man, speedtech is out of everything i want and no contact with the supplier till mid month. bummer. i guess it's rclabusa's turn.
chrisman - i may have a treat for you soon. pics! not too soon, as i can't get what i want from anyone. question though. what do you think of milling the bottom of the motor mount so that it sits maybe 1/8" lower to relieve the belts so that i may over or under drive the car? up here in ohio many of us run full time fwd, sometimes with drag brakes. yeah, crazy. we have tons of traction and lots of switchbacks for carpet. i'm trying to keep from losing the rear end upon going from power to braking. the overdriven car acts much like a oneway on power, but doesn't suffer from the rear brake only effects of one. of course the straightline speed is adversely affected, but that may not be a large issue. your thoughts. also what about sinking the bulkheads to lower roll center? seems like the arms are so high. i really wish rclab used a captured hingepin style like schumacher where both roll center and antisquat are adjustable. maybe too many parameters for us amateurs anyway. your thoughts? later.
#708
Tech Regular
Ok, thanks for the info Seaball
#709
Tech Adept
yo wasup homies,
im still waitin fo my electronics, my FUSION and QUANTUM, i am posting pics like tomorrow, i got a question do i have to have a website to host my pics or can i just load them on to my computer.
Anyways are you guys running tthe p2k2? if so what is a good spur combo for a very good top end but still very good acceleration????? my track is very open and has a few technical spot, i plan to use a oneway,
what do you think is better rubbers or foams? are rubbers better for outdoor, and what are good tires and inserts or should i stick with foams?
its just because i dont like foam tires chewing up. well i am going to bed got school tomorrow!
peace,
Nate
im still waitin fo my electronics, my FUSION and QUANTUM, i am posting pics like tomorrow, i got a question do i have to have a website to host my pics or can i just load them on to my computer.
Anyways are you guys running tthe p2k2? if so what is a good spur combo for a very good top end but still very good acceleration????? my track is very open and has a few technical spot, i plan to use a oneway,
what do you think is better rubbers or foams? are rubbers better for outdoor, and what are good tires and inserts or should i stick with foams?
its just because i dont like foam tires chewing up. well i am going to bed got school tomorrow!
peace,
Nate
#710
yup. i am getting increasingly frustrated with the customer service of this car so to speak.
- first, a member of this site offered to get me rclab parts through him. when i countered, he took weeks to get back and then quit returning my messages all together. i don't get it. probably just shady. no big deal.
- second, steve at speedtech is out of everything for the car, his particular supplier is out of the country till the end of the month, and the new 17/37 isn't making it to the states! great.
- third, rclabusa didn't respond to yesterday's email regarding availability of parts and whether or not they are retailers. and they don't even post a phone number so that i can expedite this process via a human conversation.
- fourth, i'm just mad. i think this is one of the nicest, most exotic cars out, and i'm afraid to run it in case it breaks, which it will evitably do, because i'm not even positive parts are still being made. ok, i know they are, but not because of anyone but chrisman, who's been absent for a while.
if any of you out there can help me find someone instock of most of the supension and drive parts, let me know. arghhhh.
- first, a member of this site offered to get me rclab parts through him. when i countered, he took weeks to get back and then quit returning my messages all together. i don't get it. probably just shady. no big deal.
- second, steve at speedtech is out of everything for the car, his particular supplier is out of the country till the end of the month, and the new 17/37 isn't making it to the states! great.
- third, rclabusa didn't respond to yesterday's email regarding availability of parts and whether or not they are retailers. and they don't even post a phone number so that i can expedite this process via a human conversation.
- fourth, i'm just mad. i think this is one of the nicest, most exotic cars out, and i'm afraid to run it in case it breaks, which it will evitably do, because i'm not even positive parts are still being made. ok, i know they are, but not because of anyone but chrisman, who's been absent for a while.
if any of you out there can help me find someone instock of most of the supension and drive parts, let me know. arghhhh.
#711
Hello Seaball,
I see you got some steam to let out...thats alrite... we all do when we don't get things done or the way we want to.I apologize for the late reply.We all have alot to do now a days.I try to reply as much as I can.If I don't post here do e-mail me directly. [email protected] .
Anyways to your questions about getting parts,I'm sorry that your lhs not able to help you on the parts you needed.I'm not a hobby shop nor a distributor for RCLAB.but you can ask me on tech stuffs.Check your PM.
Milling the blocks to lower cg is great but there's a lot work to do and there's no going back once you do that.We all thought of it here but it's not worth it as performance will not be noticeable.If running one ways in frt and have chassis tuned.....braking on turns can be done and it has been done even on asphalt.
RCLAB has their own design and thought put in the car for a long time before they release the 6.0.There's no imitation of other manufacture designs on the chassis thats on the market now...it's pretty much a class of its own.
Who knows,what you have mentioned maybe made available in the near future.It's always revolving to be a better touring car.
Cheers......PM or E-mail me....
Hi RSX...
Been busy with a lot of stuffs here...Not racing
To have pics posted here,you got to have ur pics supported by a photo website...and have it posted here..read the post pics here ,should have info there if not will let you know how later..
I never ran P2k@ before ...all I had was just one P2k.Depending track size again.Starting point would be the stock gearing from the manual.See what the car does...if it tops out at the beginning gear up 2 to 4 teeth.I start with 2..and try again...don't ever run the packs to the end and change run it for a couple of laps and change...it's more of trying than getting the right gear instantly...see what your locals are running and do some math...it's impotant to know what ratios you running and have it compared to and it should come close to the fast guys or better..hope this helps..
So far rubber would be best out doors......I got to go thill then ...
Chrisman..
I see you got some steam to let out...thats alrite... we all do when we don't get things done or the way we want to.I apologize for the late reply.We all have alot to do now a days.I try to reply as much as I can.If I don't post here do e-mail me directly. [email protected] .
Anyways to your questions about getting parts,I'm sorry that your lhs not able to help you on the parts you needed.I'm not a hobby shop nor a distributor for RCLAB.but you can ask me on tech stuffs.Check your PM.
Milling the blocks to lower cg is great but there's a lot work to do and there's no going back once you do that.We all thought of it here but it's not worth it as performance will not be noticeable.If running one ways in frt and have chassis tuned.....braking on turns can be done and it has been done even on asphalt.
RCLAB has their own design and thought put in the car for a long time before they release the 6.0.There's no imitation of other manufacture designs on the chassis thats on the market now...it's pretty much a class of its own.
Who knows,what you have mentioned maybe made available in the near future.It's always revolving to be a better touring car.
Cheers......PM or E-mail me....
Hi RSX...
Been busy with a lot of stuffs here...Not racing
To have pics posted here,you got to have ur pics supported by a photo website...and have it posted here..read the post pics here ,should have info there if not will let you know how later..
I never ran P2k@ before ...all I had was just one P2k.Depending track size again.Starting point would be the stock gearing from the manual.See what the car does...if it tops out at the beginning gear up 2 to 4 teeth.I start with 2..and try again...don't ever run the packs to the end and change run it for a couple of laps and change...it's more of trying than getting the right gear instantly...see what your locals are running and do some math...it's impotant to know what ratios you running and have it compared to and it should come close to the fast guys or better..hope this helps..
So far rubber would be best out doors......I got to go thill then ...
Chrisman..
#712
thanks chrisman. tenacity! i guess. i'll give steve a call again, and see if he can just put this stuff on backorder.
#713
Hi, it's not good to hear your having problems getting parts, if you're that desperate you could ring Modeltech in the UK, tell him your woes and he may do a one off order of parts for you, but I dunno what postage will be. Or maybe leave a message on the rclab.co.uk website forum, the guy in charge will see in in a day or two. He's been away during August, yearly holiday, now he's back I think he's organising a few new option parts, like integrated titanium top shock mounts for graphite shock towers, should be nice
As for gearing, I could suggest 96/30 for 48dp but thats based on 17/37 pulleys, it's actually based on what I use for a Green Machine 3, just increased the pinion size a couple teeth. I don't think there is a huge internal ratio difference when changing pulleys, you may need to change sour size by a tooth or two.
As for gearing, I could suggest 96/30 for 48dp but thats based on 17/37 pulleys, it's actually based on what I use for a Green Machine 3, just increased the pinion size a couple teeth. I don't think there is a huge internal ratio difference when changing pulleys, you may need to change sour size by a tooth or two.
#715
Tech Rookie
Originally posted by seaball
yup. i am getting increasingly frustrated with the customer service of this car so to speak.
- second, steve at speedtech is out of everything for the car, his particular supplier is out of the country till the end of the month, and the new 17/37 isn't making it to the states! great.
- third, rclabusa didn't respond to yesterday's email regarding availability of parts and whether or not they are retailers. and they don't even post a phone number so that i can expedite this process via a human conversation.
yup. i am getting increasingly frustrated with the customer service of this car so to speak.
- second, steve at speedtech is out of everything for the car, his particular supplier is out of the country till the end of the month, and the new 17/37 isn't making it to the states! great.
- third, rclabusa didn't respond to yesterday's email regarding availability of parts and whether or not they are retailers. and they don't even post a phone number so that i can expedite this process via a human conversation.
Perhaps, Speedtech misunderstood us and thought we are out of the country now. They can get any in-stock part in one day.
RC Lab USA
#716
Ahhhhh, Let There Be Light!
Thank you to all of you who are coming to my rescue.
RCLab - i dunno what was going on with the server. i did receive your second attempt.
Chrisman - thanks for the encouraging words.
Herminator - thanks for the additional options. i figured that the uk would be a last attempt.
Speedtech here i come!
> > > >
RCLab - i dunno what was going on with the server. i did receive your second attempt.
Chrisman - thanks for the encouraging words.
Herminator - thanks for the additional options. i figured that the uk would be a last attempt.
Speedtech here i come!
> > > >
Last edited by seaball; 09-13-2002 at 01:05 AM.
#717
Hello Over gear,
I did not make the trays,they are actually proto types from RCLAB.By now you should be able to get them thru your LHS.Enquire with them.It's an option part.You will need the carbon battery hold down plates to acomplished the finished look,as the stock ones are way to thick.
The trays ,I had shoe glue them to the chassis and it works awesome.Or you may secure it with screws.It's a good investment to save your batteries.
I did not make the trays,they are actually proto types from RCLAB.By now you should be able to get them thru your LHS.Enquire with them.It's an option part.You will need the carbon battery hold down plates to acomplished the finished look,as the stock ones are way to thick.
The trays ,I had shoe glue them to the chassis and it works awesome.Or you may secure it with screws.It's a good investment to save your batteries.
#718
hey chrisman. i was actually thinking of using corally trays, but i don't want the extra weight associated with them, plus i think they are too high to fit the saddles through the upper and lower plates. oh, here's a pic of my evo...and motor mount. it's a 1/8" shaft.