U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing
#9886
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
I was hiding some Christmas presents under the RC bench in the garage and found some new & used VTA wheels & tires:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post8377509
I'd love to see them go to a good home since, alas, we couldn't make the class fly out here!
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post8377509
I'd love to see them go to a good home since, alas, we couldn't make the class fly out here!
#9887
i have noticed (maybe its was just me) that most of the vta cars i see pix of are using the ss21.5 and not the ballistic 21.5 . curious as to why. i know you dont gain a ton of rpm by twisting the ballistic but why not if you can. if its a "top secret" thing well then maybe i know why. but was just curious as to why they are beeing used alot.
#9888
Company Representative
i have noticed (maybe its was just me) that most of the vta cars i see pix of are using the ss21.5 and not the ballistic 21.5 . curious as to why. i know you dont gain a ton of rpm by twisting the ballistic but why not if you can. if its a "top secret" thing well then maybe i know why. but was just curious as to why they are beeing used alot.
RMF SS Pro Motors
TeamNovak USVTA Store
#9892
Tire & Wheel Specifications:
The only tires allowed are HPI tire part #4793 front and #4797 rear, using stock tire inserts provided with tire and any HPI Vintage wheels designed to fit these tires. Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860 are all legal wheels.
The only tires allowed are HPI tire part #4793 front and #4797 rear, using stock tire inserts provided with tire and any HPI Vintage wheels designed to fit these tires. Five or Eight spoke wheels available in various colors. 0mm offset front wheels and 6mm offset rear wheels are intended for 26mm width fronts and 31mm width rear tires. 8-spoke Vintage wheels from #3805 through #3814, 5-spoke Vintage wheels from #3815 through #3822 and Vintage stock car wheels from #3854 through #3860 are all legal wheels.
Wow, I just quoted myself from the first post of this thread.
#9894
i have noticed (maybe its was just me) that most of the vta cars i see pix of are using the ss21.5 and not the ballistic 21.5 . curious as to why. i know you dont gain a ton of rpm by twisting the ballistic but why not if you can. if its a "top secret" thing well then maybe i know why. but was just curious as to why they are beeing used alot.
Leave the timing alone and gear it properly for the track and be happy.
#9899
Tech Adept
iTrader: (19)
Entered my first VTA race yesterday @ MSI Racing in Roseville, MI ..
It was the first race for my TC5 I just got a hold of, and While I did OK.. I was around 1.2 seconds behind the "Fast Guys" in the class.
What I noticed consistantly, was that I was slower in the straights then most of the other guys. Right now I am at a 4.22 FDR and was contemplating going to a 3.90ish..
What I am worried about is motor temps, will the 3.90 cause the motor to overheat?
Anyhow, this class is so much fun. You actually have to drive the car, find your line and be smooth...
It was the first race for my TC5 I just got a hold of, and While I did OK.. I was around 1.2 seconds behind the "Fast Guys" in the class.
What I noticed consistantly, was that I was slower in the straights then most of the other guys. Right now I am at a 4.22 FDR and was contemplating going to a 3.90ish..
What I am worried about is motor temps, will the 3.90 cause the motor to overheat?
Anyhow, this class is so much fun. You actually have to drive the car, find your line and be smooth...
#9900
Tech Champion
iTrader: (261)
Don't be REALLY quick to assume that the reason your car is slower on the straights is gearing. That may well be the case, but there are other factors that hold sway as well, particularly if you are running any sort of temp at your current gearing.
From experience, the bearings that come in the TC5 kits are complete crap from a durabililty standpoint...and the aftermarket ones are a touch fragile too. They don't take anywhere NEAR the pounding the good ol' TC3-4 bearings did before they start dragging substantially. Not surprising as the balls are significantly smaller, etc.
Also your belt should be LOOOOOOOSE.
You indicate you just picked up the car, if you haven't had a chance to check these things this is where I'd start.
Gearing-wise, we haven't run a LOT of 25.5 yet (assuming that's what you're running if gearing less than 4.2 FDR is allowed) but on our typical 40 X 70 layout we've found that about all you add is more temp with gearing below the 4.2 we always ran with the 21.5's. They got a bit faster on the straight, but were doggy in the infield. If your track is all sweepers, etc, a lower gearing might benefit, but here we tried it and went back.
fwiw,
Scottrik
From experience, the bearings that come in the TC5 kits are complete crap from a durabililty standpoint...and the aftermarket ones are a touch fragile too. They don't take anywhere NEAR the pounding the good ol' TC3-4 bearings did before they start dragging substantially. Not surprising as the balls are significantly smaller, etc.
Also your belt should be LOOOOOOOSE.
You indicate you just picked up the car, if you haven't had a chance to check these things this is where I'd start.
Gearing-wise, we haven't run a LOT of 25.5 yet (assuming that's what you're running if gearing less than 4.2 FDR is allowed) but on our typical 40 X 70 layout we've found that about all you add is more temp with gearing below the 4.2 we always ran with the 21.5's. They got a bit faster on the straight, but were doggy in the infield. If your track is all sweepers, etc, a lower gearing might benefit, but here we tried it and went back.
fwiw,
Scottrik